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Like all men and cars, I can't leave well enough alone. Where as I've done a little research here and there, I'm finding I'm coming up short on info.

First, I'm going to outline my plans.

First of all, I have a 98 Escort SE.

I essentially want to do an NA build for autocross. My car is my daily driver, so I don't want to go too overboard. I've determined that I won't be able to do a turbo set up because of emissions in Pittsburgh, and I've ruled out superchargers as some have said they're almost to no benefit for the CVH.

My first step will start with intake. Any recomendations for a good intake manifold that might boost performance? As far as filters, I might just drop a K&N into the stock box.

I'm also looking at replacing the cam shaft. The trouble I've been running into is finding a good cam for my engine. Again, I'm fishing for suggestions. I'm really wary about escortfocus.com's cams. If any input on that could be given.

Anything I might be missing?

I'll continue researching, and posting my ideas as well. I'd really rather not spend money on something unless I know for certain it's going to work.
 

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I recommend replacing the whole stock intake setup. It's very restrictive, even if you do use a drop in K&N
 

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I recommend replacing the whole stock intake setup. It's very restrictive, even if you do use a drop in K&N
1+ Agreed on that one, look here for ideas.
Intake Thread
 

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Before you make ANY plans to modify anything, your first task needs to be to go to www.scca.com and thoroughly read up on the modification rules for each class and then decide which class you can afford to run in while still remaining competetive. You will find that in some cases changing out a single given stock part will land your car in a faster class, for which you may not have the budget to complete the rest of the allowed modifications. You could do it, but you will see that each classes allowed mods are more like a "package" of mods that are intended to work togather. If you can't do all of a given class's mods at once you won't do well compared to other cars in that class no matter how good a driver you become. So, start with the SCCA website, select SOLO from the buttons at the top of the screen, select SOLO Overview to read first, then select SOLO Cars an Rules. This should help you get a clearer idea of how to get started in a class that fits you current budget. Oh, the website can also help you get in touch with your local SCCA Solo region to get event schedules and things like that. Welcome to the forum, good luck and happy racing! WARNING: once you begin sanctioned racing, you will never be able stop ;) [/quote]
 

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i cut the end off of the stock air filter housing.from the inner finder up to the spot that say air filter.make sure not to cut past the "R" in filter.you will have less mounting bolts,so it is not as sturdy,and when it is humid it seems to bog a little.But my mgp went up 70 miles a tank,and the seat of the pants say it improved the horse power too. Plus it sounds mean when it inhales now.kept the stock air filter,so total cost for this is just time and grime.
 

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If tuned properly, a turbo setup will pass emissions....

N/A is the expensive way to go slow.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey thanks for all the awesome replies! First thing is to get it back in shape, and then take it from there.

If there is a way to turbo it and still pass emissions I might try that in the end.
 

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TheMerchantofMenace said:
Hey thanks for all the awesome replies! First thing is to get it back in shape, and then take it from there.

If there is a way to turbo it and still pass emissions I might try that in the end.
You aint gonna pass an etest with any worthwhile n/a mods. And if you do the kind of stuff that will allow you to pass an etest, have fun getting walked by stock bp's and wondering why you wasted your money.

Turbo or bust.
 

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GUYS... He specifically mentioned AUTOCROSS. Lets keep our suggestions real-world, based on that. StealthStyle, that is not entirely true. It all depends on what you goals and needs are and what you are willing to do to achieve them. A correctly ported and gasket-matched cylinder head (with .020" taken off the deck to bump the compression to 9.65/1), intake manifold/IMRC and throttlebody is good for an instant 8 to 10% increase in power all by itself. You will also need to file/grind the throttle stop tab down enough to get the throttle to actually open all the way (this was another dirty trick by Ford to ensure that the SPI Focus was faster than the SPI Esort). When the above items were the only mods I had on my '02 it knocked nearly a full second off both the 0 to 60 and 1/4 mile times, according to an MSD Dash Hawk. OK, not the only mod, I did the intake and did the exhaust with a header, Magnaflow metal matrix catalytic converter and 2-1/4" pipe to a Flowmaster Delta 40, but that HAD to be done to support the increased flow from the head.

Disclaimer here for potential Autocrossers: my head work technicaly puts my car into the Street Modified catagory all by itself. Street Mod gets very expensive very quickly due to the other mods that are allowed. However, hardly anyone ever makes a teardown protest against an unusually fast Escort; most racers' egos won't allow it :D

Now, after the head work you can bump the base spark timing about 5 degrees by slotting the Crankshaft Position Sensor mounting holes and sliding it advanced. And THAT is mod that a totally stock engine can benefit from (just keep an ear tuned to hear any spark rattling, and then run higher octane if you do hear some). Now we are looking at an output increase of a solid 13 to 15% overall, with an internally stock engine with all emisions devices in-place and functioning. A trip to a dyno shop that knows how to tune a Ford ECC-5 ECM will net you an additional 5% increase in power if you are willing to run Premium fuel exclusively. SO you see, guys, its all a matter of what you are willing to do get where you want to go. Now, throw in one of the new Isky or EFP camshafts to REALLY take advantage of the ported head (and another trip to the dyno tuner) and you will have a naturally aspirated SPI Escort that will truly cause people to do a double take and mumble to themselves "What the he!! was that?!". And it will pass emmisions, both tailpipe and trouble code check. Beyond that there isn't much more to be had from the SPI in un-boosted form. The above list of mods will also just about max out the stock mass airflow meter's measurement scale anyway as well as have the injectors bumping up against their fuel delivery limit at high RPM.

So, there it is. Doing ALL of the above can get an SPI Escort into the 15 second 1/4 mile range while still looking almost totally stock and able pass emissions. Sure, it isn't killer fast compared to some cars, but come on, it is nearly THREE SECONDS and some TWENTY MPH FASTER through the 1/4 than when it rolled off the assembly line. And it will still get well over 30 MPG on the highway. THEN add a Walbro fuel pump and the 75 shot of nitrous!!!
 

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i concede that if the above is possible while being able to pass emissions, then i was wrong.

but it does fall in the "too overboard" category the original poster did not want to go into... from the original post i figured the guy would be your typical i/h/e kinda modder, from the fact that he was asking about what intake manifold to use.
 

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SCCA tends to frown on the use of nitrous on a Solo course..... ;)
 

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Of course, I see your point there Stealth. However, starting with the intake/header/exhaust route plus grinding the throttle stop enough to get 100% wide open, PLUS a dyno tune, will yield surprising results. Not spectacular, but pleasing none the less, and they are all allowed mods for all but the Pure Stock catagories. I added the rest to show what can be done when his budget (or anyone elses) allows him to compete in the faster classes. And Ciento, the nitrous is for occasional street and strip fun.
 
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