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Escort671 said:
someone is gonna need to sticky this...........
done, and slightly more organized.

1) Turbo

2) port matching intake.

3) 3.8TB Port matched. stock the manifold port isnt as big as the TB

4) Lumpy Cam. best for top end.

5) Remove the stock ONE-WAY pcv breather valve

6) Run 5W-20. todays oils are better than they were years ago.

6.5) do the ATF treatment 250miles before changing oil. substitute 1 quart of ATF for 1 quart of oil.

7) DO NOT USE FRAM FILTERS

8) BG Fuel Injection Cleaner
--- i will stand by this one till i die.

9) New 02 sensor.
---will keep engine running tip top.
 

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decepticonspi said:
1. 1.9L crank shaft
3. Pistons- Paeco, Arias and basicaily anyother good manufacturer will do it for a price.

4. General engine building like knife edging and balancing crank, balancing rest of rotating assembly (rods, pistons, etc.), shave head or block to bump compression slightly, port and polish head and intake, blueprint engine, and so on and so on.
the spi crank has 4 extra counterweights and is way way way way more balanced than the 1.9. and by way more balanced i mean, its balanced period. the 1.9 crank is just cast and thrown in. buying new pistons is way more work and cost than its worth. the flow characteristics of the spi with its dome top pistons is perfect, especialy when the intake is slightly polished up. but not totaly polished up. the roughness helps atomize the fuel because of the randomness of the direction of flow. the spi is a verry strong motor stock. mine had about 55,000 on it and i boosted 17psi with arround 9.5-9.7:1 for 2 years before i decided to rebuild it for longevity purposes.

if anything, i would shave the head about 5 thousandths and call it good. the xtra compresion will give you better numbers all across the board.
 

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why dont ppl understand that double valve springs take double the power to open???? unles you plan on spinning it 7500rpm you dont need double springs.
 
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