Discussion in '1st Gen 1981-1990 CVH' started by austin86, Jul 17, 2019.
Curious...where did you order the wheels from ?
OK I'm poor now.
I just orders a lot of parts for the car.
Sent a cam off for a regrind.
ARP Pro Series Cylinder Head Stud Kit
ARP High Performance Series Connecting Rod Bolt Kit
ARP Main Stud Kit (its for a 1.6l but I read that it fits a 1.9l)
Melling Valve Springs VS-2218 (these are GT exhaust valve springs within speck of what my cam grind needs.)
Crane Dual Valve Springs 99884 (Can't find retainers for them, ordered them to have wile I hunt for them)
Sealed Power VG737 valve guides.
Some one on eBay. Sorry I do not know who, I tend to use the guest check out and don't always save the emails. :/
Good to hear of your engine build up. Not much of that these days on this board.
I would really like to see pictures of the parts (especially the rocker arms) when you get them.
I'll try too, I seem to always forget to take photos.
I have other build plans too, I would like to have the pistons coated, crank balanced and some better rods made too.
But for now I'm working on the head for the most part and still need to find ARP manifold bolts.
Me likey what I found.
Others might like this too.
Not cheap about 1k for rods. Not sure if I want to spend that much on rods.
Depending on what you are demanding of your engine, you may be fine with the stock rotating assembly. Is it the one that came from the "Racing Shop"?
Plus you already bought ARP bolts for the stock rods, right?
Also, the manifold bolts and studs aren't highly stressed, so you don't really need ARP replacements.
But I'm a fine one to talk, as I bought ARP head studs just because I don't like the stock type TTY bolts.
Yeah its the motor form a racing shop. It was not a high end racing rebuild however.
Its all stock parts aside form the pistons with are over sized. I don't think I'll use arp rod bolts until I find better rods. As for manifold studs. I need new ones. All mine are old, rusty and need replacing. Don't think I'll use arp but definitely something better then stock.
Having thought about it some more. I have a running HO motor with 120kish miles. I think I may put that in the car first to work out all the kinks with the CFI to HO motor swap then after having built up the all ready rebuilt HO from the race shop with better rods, all ARP bolts and having all sorts of other things done to it like having the head/pistons coated and crank balanced and so on I'll drop it in. That would save alot of time as I can work on other things on the car wile saving up for the engine build.
OK, here are my current plans as of today.
1: Strip my spare CFI and HO motor, the CFI wile usable is of no use to me and will be used for parts. The HO sat for years and is not in the best shape and will all so be used for parts.
2: Pull the dash on the 88 exp.
3: Pull the motor in my 88 exp and strip it. I have a few folks that want parts off it since it has so low miles and can also use some parts off it.
4: Paint the car, keeping it simple, flat black engine bay/hood and keeping the car red.
5: Pull the motor in the 87 EXP I have and install it in my 88 exp. The car/motor runs but the car is a rusted beyond repair sadly.
6: Fix rear shock towers/wheel tubs and install grey interior my 88.
7: Put the rebuilt motor on a stand and start building it up.
8: Give my black 87 EXP a new home.
9: Put the rebuilt motor on a stand and start building it up.
10: Install the built up motor with the super charger in the car.
What I have done as of today.
1: Window lovers installed.
2: All power options removed aside form the power brakes.
3: Most of the red interior has been removed, just the dash is left.
4: Fount shock tower to fender braces restored.
5: Cam is being reground.
6: EXP to normal escort grill swap has been tested. Fit and finish is not the best will ether keep stock grill or mod the mounting tabs so a regular gill fits better.
7: Manual steering rack has been rebuilt and panted flat black.
Ok I got new arp main studs today. And I pulled the head off the spare cfi motor I have. I was surprised to find the cfi motor had a roller cam and lifters yet was paired to a 4 speed and was out of a wagon.
I'll keep the cam and mayby the lifters too. The rest of the head I'll either re-home or scrap.
OK I forgot to outline my motor build.
ARP main and head studs and rod bolts.
Rods, earlier stock or aftermarket, not sure yet.
Ceramic coating the head and pistons maybe better pistons too.
If I can get the pulleys right I'll supercharge it, 6-8psi boost maybe more.
Crane cam with .472 lift.
Dual spring crane valve springs if I can find the right retainers or over sized valves.
adjustable cam pulley.
I'm sure I'll find more to do. Shooting for 200-250hp.
I would trust the original, used roller lifters more than modern aftermarket ones.
Unlike flat tappet lifters, they don't need to mated to the cam lobe they originally ran on, and last hundreds of thousands of miles.
I would, however, individually dismantle and clean them before reuse.
They tend to accumulate a bit of varnish at the ends of travel of the plunger in use, and when reused will inevitably operate at a slightly different position. This can cause the plunger to stick in the varnished area creating "lifter tick". It might clear up, but it might take a long time to do so.
It is important to keep the plunger matched to its original body, as they are selectively fit in manufacture.
I'd keep the old camshaft too, after my experience with tossing one out, then wanting it later.
I was back at removing the dash yesterday. This car was so optioned out that the under side of the dash is full of wires and the best part of that is that all the wires are ether zip tied or anchored down in some way. So yes 3 days worth of work and the dash is still in the car.
I hope the gray dash in my 87 parts car is less work wot remove, Id hate to damage it when I remove it. Luckily the only options on the 87 aside from the HO motor is fog lights, premium sound, power mirrors and cruise control, so the wiring mess should be much smaller.
thanks for the update, but i like pics too.
I like Pic's too, but I really don't have much to takes photos off right now, Once I get the dash out I'll take some photos.
OK, I got good news, better news, bad news and some in between news.
Bad news is I broke my phone so no photos, I ordered a new phone but it may not arrive until the 20th.
The in between news, I had to give up on the dash removal for a wile. I don't want to brake anything so I just need to take a step back from it for now.
Good news is that I got the dented driver side fender off the car.
Better news is that there is very little rust under the fender and inside the inner fender.
And for my current change plans.
I'll be using carbs. It will cost more as I do not have all the parts. But It will make things a lot less complex in the log run. For now I will use the stock 1.9l carb manifold with a Weber 38. Latter down the road I'll look into bike carbs. The Yamaha R1 carbs look like a good pick.
I will also be deleting the plastic wheel well liner, heater and heater fan.
The wheel well will be lined with 3M rubberized undercoating after removing the rust and rest sealing it. The gaps between the door-jam to fender well and bumper to fender well will have a aluminum plate installed to keep water out of the car and what not.
EDIT: I have a old phone I can use to take a few photos, but the photos will not look the best. I'll try to get some photos tonight.
Once I get my tax refund if I ever do... uncle sam seems to goof up and has to mail me a check every year. Anyway once I get it I'll make anther parts buy. List of parts below.
All-new front brakes witch includes the following.
Drill and slotted rotors
New rubber brake lines.
I'll also be buying new door panel clips to better hold the door panels on.
Moog wheel hub and baerrings
Moog problem solver control arms with have polly bushes.
New Moog tie rod ends.
Struts mounts (I have a set of KYB struts and new springs already)
I'll likely be adding to this list.
I also started on the rust repar on the dirver side fender well.
For DOT5 you'll have to replace the master cylinder and all your brakes lines including the hard lines or flush them A LOT, they say if any DOT5 comes in contact with DOT3/DOT4 it will destroy any rubber the compound reaches.
Thinking about rear discs too?
I sure am haha
DOT 5.1, Not 5. 5.1 is glycol base like 3 and 4 wile dot5 is silicon base.
I'm not thinking of rear disks, I been striping wights off the car so disks/drums should be OK.
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