Discussion in 'Engine Swaps' started by marclar, Oct 4, 2004.
No the ports are normally closed due to a spring, unless he did something to keep them open.
there is so much info on here its confusing.
so i need a 97 fuel rail..rpm switch and of course the 2.0 to swap with. what 1.9 accesories will fit directly? the alternator? anything else?
i really hope i get a cheap 2.0 with all the stuff i need this sounds like it could get expensive.
All 1.9 accessorizes will fit the 2.0 but you may have to use the 1.9 accessory brackets to make them fit.
very cool. im looking to possibly do this, its a tough choice because rebuilding the 1.9 is cheaper...but it seems the 1.9 is problematic..blown head gaskets in the Arizona heat...well that is where i have been for almost a year now.
The reason you keep blowing gaskets is probably because your head is warped. The 1.9 and 2.0 are basically the same engine, they even use the save head gasket, so one isn't necessarily going to have an advantage in that rearguard.
Don't blame it simply on a warped head. I went through 6 head gaskets in 4 years, only to find out that the best route is to:
1) when using the 1.9L/2.0L FelPro head gasket kit, they give you head bolts that are about washers length too long, put 1 washer on each bolt, buy them from any local hardware store.
2) After the washers, tighten to torque specs, drive around for about 100 mi, then recheck the torque on the bolts.
The issue with the felpro gaskets kept my mechanic thinking I was racing with the darn thing, and basically took tightening a bolt onto a spare block without the head on it, then measuring the distance left over to prove that it was the bolts were too long. The bolts where bottoming out before the head of the bolt could contact the the engine head. This is cause the Deck of the 2.0L is about a washers length different, and the bolts are to 2.0L specs, not 1.9L.
^Or you could use ARP studs and not have that issue.
that too, but for the price, and also convieniance of not having to completely remove the intake manifold just to get the head off, Head-Bolts/Washers are alot easier. If I was making a race car without a budget, I could see sinking over $100 in Head studs. But, since this is just a everyday driver, meh, not so much.
my car has given me nothing but problems, but as a person who has not the budget for a new one, plus being a person who is educated about the basics i have put up with this car for a while now.
I just wanna get the best value i can out of it which again is why im unsure about doing the swap or rebuilding. I have noticed in similar threads that many people say there is little you can do to the 1.9 with bolt ons and such; these are not reallY designed for much improvement..and with the bp swap out of the question due to rarity here and cost im trying to determine where to go from here since my my stock 1.9 is on its way out. I can get a 2.0 no problem we have a million yards here. Im not sure about trusting an ebay type shipper plus shipping will cost a lot even if the engine doesnt since a lot of seller play with numbers) so i guess getting one local is a good call even if i have to get a rebuild kit for it..then i gotta pay my buddy labor and get whatever parts ill need extra...looks like not a lot of extra things are needed thank goodness!
Trouble is its my daily driver..and i have to wait til june to afford the work. and stuff..looks like ill be peddling soon to work!
IDK what to tell ya, your not going to get much more power from the 2.0L, since they are almost completely the same engine. Unless you are talking about the ZETEC DOHC Engine, which in that case, the head accessory brackets are different. Also the stroke of the rods are slightly different as well, but essentially the same block for all 3.
The limitations in the 1.9L are due to the fact that the fuel and firing timing is based upon a crank sensor which reads a magnetic dot on the crank, and a Cam sensor, which reads a magnetic dot on the camshaft. And, short of having a friend in Europe that is willing to get his hands dirty and then ship a whole freakin Engine overseas, the only way you will get any power out of the 1.9L is to read up on some of the home-made mods in this forum. Both the 2.0L engines are the same way. The only way you will have a sure fire "Bolt right up and go" mod is if you swap engines, which will require a Wiring harness change. If your just wanting to keep your car mobile, then stick with what you have, don't change a thing.
Now, if you could describe what things it does to make you think it is "Dieing" some of us that have worked on these Engines may could help. A little blue-smoke can be something simple as the PCV Valve stuck open. Loss in power could be a simple spark plug fouled, or the small single ground wire is loose. The car idling funny could simply be a bad TPS, or MAF sensor, or even just the idle air control sticking. Once I got all of those fixed, my 1.9L felt just as peppy as any ZETEC engine. I am constantly getting yelled at for driving like I stole my car, when I barely give it any petal at all.
^Sorry but there is alot of bad info here. The main limitation of the 1.9 is the cylinder head, it has vary poor flow characteristics and the smallest valves ever put in this engine varent, it has nothing to do with the crank or cam sensors. The 2.0 SPI has a much better flowing head design plus some of the biggest valves used and this is the main reason why it makes more power.
You don't have to change wiring harnesses or ECU to do the 2.0 SPI swap, the harness from the 1.9 is plug and play though you may have to swap some sensors from the 1.9 onto the 2.0. The 2.0 ZETEC is a much more involved swap.
Your 1.9 just a peppy as any ZETEC, lol. You obviously haven't driven a ZX2. I have a header, full exhaust, throttle body, underdrive pulley, and intake on my SPI and my bros 98 ZX2 with an intake and muffler still feels faster.
not getting into a war with anyone. 1)I have driven my aunt's ZX2 numerous times, as well as my Uncles 2006 Focus. Me being their main mechanic for their vehicles. 2)He was talking about "Bolt-up Modifications" and true, there is not much difference in the 1.9L wiring harness and the 2.0L, there is actual modifications that need to be done, various clipped changed, the fact that the 1.9L computer cannot control the SPI Controller, and other things as well. 3)The flow design is limiting, yes, but the biggest part of the problem of upgrading from the CVH Engines is the fact that they are EDIS systems, and require those sensors. Without the sensors, the cam and crank could be replaced with a different one. I could take my 1.9L head to a machine shop and have the valves ground to take the 2.0L valves, (which I have done since they did not have them when the seats cracked). There are many variances in the European model of the CVH and the US one, including the heart-shaped filler in the combustion part of the head, which is not present in the CVH of Europe. This is what I was talking about. Also, the intake and exhaust are better designed to equipt a turbo-charger to them in Europe. But enough of the difference in design.
YES, you can drop a 2.0L SPI engine into a 2nd gen Escort, but be prepared to replace clips for the MAF, IAC, if you do not have a `97 SPI fuel rail, that will have to be modded, The 1.9L computer will make the 2.0L run rich with 2.0L injectors in it, you will have to make your own way to open the SPI Flaps, (be it making the Controller, or setting up a switch). It is by no means, "Bolt-on".
Also to note, with all the added things to your Zx2, I don't doubt it's more peppy. When was the last time you drove a 2nd gen that had been taken care of, or for that matter, a bare stock Zx2?
i understand changing the clip for the maf when using the 2.0 maf on the 1.9 harness. but the iac doesn't need it if ur using the 1.9 iac on the 2.0 tb.
only if u use a 1.9 maf and 2.0 injectors.
if ur not taking the engine above say 5000 rpm, i don't really see this as a nessecity. just sayin.
Why can't the crank be replaced? The sensor reads off the harmonic balancer which fits onto the crank and uses a woodrift key to orient it which pretty much standard for any crank. You could also add the trigger to a cam if you wanted, its just a piece of metal that sticks up and could be welded on or you could go with a standalone ECU like magasquirt and you won't need the cam sensor. I know Dave94LX is running a euro aftermarket cam in his 94 SPI swap.
On my 96 I did not have to change any of the wiring due to different connectors. I did have to lengthen the tps lead thought. The car got the same gas mileage with both engines. The 96 and 97 engines used the same sensors. The only different electrical parts that the ecm controlled were the injectors and iacv. I used the 1.9 iacv and 2.0 injectors. The 96 uses the same maf as the 2.0. I do have a functioning egr system on my swap which may contribute the the fuel mileage not being effected. On the irmc controller I used a rpm switch made by Summit Racing and and made the controller a plug and play unit, with the exception of the tach signal. For the tach signal I tapped in to the signal behind the gauge cluster and put a barrel style quick connecter so I could remove the controller later with out cutting any wires. I did have a whole car for parts so the did help.
got a 93 wagon, I want to do this 2.0 swap, problem is I hate wasting money and time (like everyone else). I have read all the forums and from what I understand, I will need a 2.0 motor, spi controller, and about a weekends worth of time. I plan on buying this motor from a jy, a few new parts (clutch, axles, sensors...) and I also plan on buying a master rebuild kit for it (just so I know its a solid motor, Id rather the motor be built by my hands then some one i dont know). so with that said, it sounds like the motor and a few connectors are the only thing that bolts up. I want to do as little "customization" as i can. I hate making my stuff "ghetto" I live in az and money at this point is not to big of an issue. I also plan on having the car painted inside and out when I do this swap, that way I can paint the engine bay as well. so... question 1, if i buy a ecu from a 97 and a 97 2.0 motor will I have to use a spi controller? question 2 (2 part), will the 2.0 egr get in the way of the slave? and if it does, whats and easy way to fix this? question 3, can I utilize my whole stock wire harness, with no modification? question 4, will there be room for everything with the 2.0 motor in place with out modification? (radiator, fire wall, ect.....)
1: 97 ECU won't work without extensive modification to the electrical system.
3: I don't see why not if you use the sensors from your old motor.
Apreciate the help sir. Now all I have to do is find the parts and start the swap. I'm not much a a "write up" guy, but I will take some pics and maybe do a small how-to on this.
the motor from a 97 is the best to use right? I also have one more question (which might lead to more) will a zx2 dohc bolt up like the 2.0 spi? If not what are the differences? Is much rather drop a dohc into my wagon than 2.0.... thanks for the help
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