steering wheel swap from stock to aftermaket
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if you´re sitting in your drivers seat, feel around the backside of the steering wheel and you should feel holes, those have nuts in them, loosen them up and it should come off. if not then I don´t know what else there is to do.
The only reaon i want to keep my steering wheel is because cruise is on it, right there at my finger tips. otherwise i woulda put a MOMO in there myself. It´s something I´m debating about doing though.
The only reaon i want to keep my steering wheel is because cruise is on it, right there at my finger tips. otherwise i woulda put a MOMO in there myself. It´s something I´m debating about doing though.
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Take the cover off as James said, then you´ll need a steering wheel puller to get the entire wheel off. Grant makes one that´s like $5 I think. Then take off the center nut and use the puller to get the wheel off. You could try to pull it off by hand but I doubt it would work. Definitely DO NOT try to pry it off, as something will definitely break!
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Thanks, 91sleeper, like i said, I haven´t decided whether i´m going to do that yet, so I really don´t know much about taking the wheel off.
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WAIT!!!!!!!!! What gen and do you have air bags??? If you have air bags don´t touch ANYTHING till you read the manual. you will at the very least have to fully disconnect the battery, and there could be a reserve power source that may deploy the bag when you disconnect it. If you have no air bag, then the removal is pretty simple, but if you do have an air bag be very careful.
Pimp´s right - the last thing you want is that airbag going off on you, especially if you´re not belted in...
Plus look at your state law. In VA I believe it´s illegal to replace an air-bag equipped steering wheel unless you replace it with another one that also has an air-bag. Which pretty much rules out the aftermarket!
Plus look at your state law. In VA I believe it´s illegal to replace an air-bag equipped steering wheel unless you replace it with another one that also has an air-bag. Which pretty much rules out the aftermarket!
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91 EGTs didn´t come with airbags, they didn´t come standard until either the 95 or 96 years.
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Your GTP doesn´t have airbags? I figured it would.
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You must first remove the horn cover by removing the bolts from the back side, then use a steering wheel puller to remove the wheel. Once you get an adapter kit for your car, the fun part begins (your adapter kit may not work as well as mine did, so you might have to do a little experimenting). It takes a little work to get the cruise control and horn to function as it does on the stock wheel, but it can be done. Mine is a bit different from yours, since I changed from the stock 17:1 ratio rack to a quicker 15:1 rack, and had to use a Mazda column to complete the project (The only difference from yours being the adapter kit that would fit.) On mine, I used a Mazda 323 kit and a 25mm extender to bring the wheel out where I wanted it. The trick is to make provisions in the new adapter to make room for the connector coming off the rotating contact. From there, you must cut a hole in the side of the adapter, so the wiring harness for the cruise and horn can pass through and reach the connector of the rotating contact that will reside outside the adapter. The cruise buttons and horn wiring can be removed by unscrewing the buttons from the back of the horn cover. Don´t throw the cover away, as you will need the hard plastic supports for the buttons to either, cut them out and mount the buttons using them, or to use them for a template.
Once all this is done, you will need to make a plate to go between your adapter and your wheel, to hold the cruise buttons (I used aluminum) There will need to be a hole in the center to mount the horn, holes for the mounting screws for the wheel, grooves for the wiring, and holes for the cruise button mounting screws. I used a MOMO Monte Carlo and mounted my buttons on "wings" that position the cruise buttons diagonally on either side below and beside the center of the wheel. It is really trick and works perfectly.
Sorry this seems so quick and dirty, but once you get into it, it will all make sense. If you have any questions, e-mail me, or drop another post.
Marcus
Once all this is done, you will need to make a plate to go between your adapter and your wheel, to hold the cruise buttons (I used aluminum) There will need to be a hole in the center to mount the horn, holes for the mounting screws for the wheel, grooves for the wiring, and holes for the cruise button mounting screws. I used a MOMO Monte Carlo and mounted my buttons on "wings" that position the cruise buttons diagonally on either side below and beside the center of the wheel. It is really trick and works perfectly.
Sorry this seems so quick and dirty, but once you get into it, it will all make sense. If you have any questions, e-mail me, or drop another post.
Marcus
sorry for crossposting.
I took off the airbag and horn module. Now even after a perfect lock with the steering puller, I cannt able to pull the wheels off?
Should I allow the steering to wheel freely when I rotate the center nut?
I was holding the steering not allowing to rotate, but the whole force mad the threds on the aluminum plate where locknuts locks came off. Now I dont know where to lock that nut to.
Any better way to remove the steering wheel switch (multifunction head/park combo switch).
Thank you
Sam
I took off the airbag and horn module. Now even after a perfect lock with the steering puller, I cannt able to pull the wheels off?
Should I allow the steering to wheel freely when I rotate the center nut?
I was holding the steering not allowing to rotate, but the whole force mad the threds on the aluminum plate where locknuts locks came off. Now I dont know where to lock that nut to.
Any better way to remove the steering wheel switch (multifunction head/park combo switch).
Thank you
Sam
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Actually, drivers airbag was standard beginning in 94, with dual airbags from 95 on.
And I´m actually gonna swap to a 91GT wheel in my 91 LX. Since I don´t have a steering wheel puller, I´ll just have it done by the shop when I have my brakes replaced. I don´t have to worry about hooking up the cruise control tho, cause my car doesn´t have it.
Good luck, and post a pic when you get that Momo wheel on!
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Actually, drivers airbag was standard beginning in 94, with dual airbags from 95 on.
And I´m actually gonna swap to a 91GT wheel in my 91 LX. Since I don´t have a steering wheel puller, I´ll just have it done by the shop when I have my brakes replaced. I don´t have to worry about hooking up the cruise control tho, cause my car doesn´t have it.
Good luck, and post a pic when you get that Momo wheel on!
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Yeah I know that now 94s with drivers airbags and 95, 96 have both sides. last month I wasn´t quite sure. ;-)
yeap.. both sides... i found out the hard way.. and its a $1500 waste of money when there IS no passenger.. I never even hit the airbag.. the seatbelt held me back.. all it did was smash my wrist into the window and left a little rash on my wrist from the abrasion.. and it is by NO means a big pillow.. it gets all dusty and smells of gun powder (anyone shoot with actual gunpowder.. like black powder) anyways.. 95´s have airbags
Yeah I´ve never been in a car that had the bags go off, but from seeing the junked cars at the U-pull-it, it looks like those sons of bitches could break the windshield if you pointed them at it...
On the flip side... what steering wheel do you guys recommend for the 91EGT that doesn´t cost more than 120 bucks? Does such a steering wheel exist?
On the flip side... what steering wheel do you guys recommend for the 91EGT that doesn´t cost more than 120 bucks? Does such a steering wheel exist?
not one that would be worthwhile putting on. I have seen lots of airbags break windows. one of my teachers told me about when the towns community college was doing a mechanics course and did a presentation of an airbag... they set it out in a field and put a heap of confetti on top of it... you know how if you have confetti and throw it as hard as you can it goes about 3-4 feet max? lol, well this thing shot it 20 feet into the air :-o
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[ This message was edited by: BlackMx-3 on 08-02-2003 01:38 ]
[ This message was edited by: BlackMx-3 on 08-02-2003 01:38 ]
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Can anyone help our bro out? (I´ve never had a steering wheel off) :-]
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Can anyone help our bro out? (I´ve never had a steering wheel off) :-]
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I have never had a problem getting a steering wheel off when using a steering wheel puller. I´ll run through the procedure, so forgive me if this is getting too basic. First, remove the screws from the back side of the wheel that hold the horn pad in place. Once you get these off, you must work just a bit to remove the horn pad because it does have some little clips that keep it in place. Once you get the pad loose, you must disconnect the horn/cruise wiring by just unplugging the connector. Next, you must remove the steering wheel nut that attachs the wheel to the shaft. At this point, you are ready for the puller.
The puller is rather like placing your thumbs on the center shaft (column), wrapping your fingers around the back, and then, prying your fingers toward you, as your thumbs try to push the shaft through hole in the steering wheel. The wheel must be held still, as you do this, otherwise the mechanical pushing/pulling action cannot take place. The puller is set up by bolting its bridle (the thing with the slotted legs, or ears) to the threaded holes in the steering wheel, so that the puller´s center bolt is directly in line the the column shaft. There must be enough room for the puller´s tip to contact the column shaft, and that the puller´s center bolt is completely onto the bridle´s threads.
At this point, you should have the bridle firmly connected to the wheel and the head of the puller´s center bolt facing you. Now it is time to hold the wheel with one hand to keep it from turning and begin tightening the puller in clockwise direction, just like you are tightening a bolt. It will take some force, since the steering wheel is press-fit onto a tapered shaft. It will probably break free with a little pop, just as you think your wrench is getting hard to turn. For the rest of the project, refer to my post just a little earlier in this thread.
Oh, yeah, I found the least expensive high quality wheel to be the MOMO Monte Carlo, and I think it is just under the $120 point.
Marcus
[ This message was edited by: stripedmx5 on 08-02-2003 08:22 ]
The puller is rather like placing your thumbs on the center shaft (column), wrapping your fingers around the back, and then, prying your fingers toward you, as your thumbs try to push the shaft through hole in the steering wheel. The wheel must be held still, as you do this, otherwise the mechanical pushing/pulling action cannot take place. The puller is set up by bolting its bridle (the thing with the slotted legs, or ears) to the threaded holes in the steering wheel, so that the puller´s center bolt is directly in line the the column shaft. There must be enough room for the puller´s tip to contact the column shaft, and that the puller´s center bolt is completely onto the bridle´s threads.
At this point, you should have the bridle firmly connected to the wheel and the head of the puller´s center bolt facing you. Now it is time to hold the wheel with one hand to keep it from turning and begin tightening the puller in clockwise direction, just like you are tightening a bolt. It will take some force, since the steering wheel is press-fit onto a tapered shaft. It will probably break free with a little pop, just as you think your wrench is getting hard to turn. For the rest of the project, refer to my post just a little earlier in this thread.
Oh, yeah, I found the least expensive high quality wheel to be the MOMO Monte Carlo, and I think it is just under the $120 point.
Marcus
[ This message was edited by: stripedmx5 on 08-02-2003 08:22 ]
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