On my 2001 ZX2 that only has 37,000 miles but assume it has the original belt. Got the tool that holds the cams in place and the pin for setting the crank to TDC. Took the plugs out and the valve cover off. Looks pretty clean inside.
Looks good. Take your time with the belt and it'll go fine. I've done two of them myself, not too hard.
Where does that pin go for TDC alignment? I can't see the bolt you have to unscrew to put it into. I got the cams aligned but if I go by the notch on the crank pulley, it's a few degrees off.
I've heard that the TDC pin doesn't even set the engine at TDC, I personally didn't use it when I did the timing belt on a ZX2. Just use a screw driver down the #1 spark plug hole to locate TDC, it will get you close enough to get the belt on.
Sorry I can't help you with the Zetec engine since I've never done a timing belt on one. I too have to change the timing belt on my '97 wagon with 40K miles. I bought it new in Feb. '98 and it still has the original timing belt. The belt might last another 20 years but since this is the car I usually drive on longer road trips I'm not taking a chance. It's something I can do myself in about 1/2 a day. I don't want to be somewhere 500-1000 miles away from home when it breaks have to pay to have it towed in and another $500-600 for someone to change it just because I got lazy.
Where does that pin go for TDC alignment? I can't see the bolt you have to unscrew to put it into. I got the cams aligned but if I go by the notch on the crank pulley, it's a few degrees off.
It looked like this with the alignment bar in the back of the cams. Just a tad off I thought. Put a strap wrench on the pulley and turned it counterclockwise and now it's right on. Got the belt off as well as the tensioner and idler pulley. Finish up tomorrow.
Yea but there is alway a few degrees of rotation at the crank either way when it's at TDC so it's not as accurate.
That level of accuracy doesn't matter in this situation. The timing belt has notches and the crankshaft sprocket is keyed, if you are off by one tooth then you will most likely be able to detect it using just the screwdriver method like I and pextor mentioned. You may need to move the crank slightly one way or another to get the belt on but the engine will be in time.
Finished up yesterday and it runs great for the minute I had it on without the drive belt installed. Will take if for a drive after I got it all buttoned up. With all the other timing belt posts here mentioning rough running and CEL coming on, I was a little apprehensive.