[juggalo]

it only does it for about 3 seconds or more after i let go of the key. i'm gonna take it to get it tested today. does anybody know what it could be? it's not loose at all. there's 3 symptoms chilton's has but is there more?

 

[LOWETGT]

I have read other posts where the ignition switch goes bad. I never had that issue, but I have had a bad ignition where it turns over without a key...

 

[denisond3]

It would depend whether it is still electrically cranking, or is just not dropping back out of contact after the engine starts turning faster than the stater can do it. So my guesses are:
It could be the starter is loose (bolts not tight or mounting flange cracked) and is binding against the starter ring.
It could be the bendix assembly is sticking on the output shaft in the extended position and not dropping back.

If the starter motor is electrically working, (not just being dragged along by the bendix being spun by the starter ring)....
It could be the solenoid is gummed up inside.
It could be a bad ignition switch.

Ignition switches on Escorts go bad fairly commonly; after maybe 10 to 15 years.


Have you been in wet or slushy enough conditions that the starter could have water/ice in it?

 

[juggalo]

i've already replaced the ignition switch cuz the last one cut out around the end of last winter. it doesn't do it if i release the key early.

 

[LOWETGT]

Sounds like new starter time.

 

[Setnev]

There are two different switches for the ignition. You have the cylinder the key goes into that turns, and then the electrical switch that actually turns over the car. If one of those is defective, it could cause that. Which switch did you replace? The mechanical key cylinder assy or the electrical switch? Also, the starter solenoid may be sticking too.

 

[juggalo]

i replaced the electrical switch. i'm thinkin it could be the solenoid too but chilton's has these causes of what it could be: worn drive end bushing, damaged ring gear teeth, and the drive yoke return spring broken or missing which makes me think somethin on the inside of the starter aint right.

 

[Setnev]

Back in the day, which was a tuesday BTW, I had a starter on my Impala that would not disengage. You would hook the battery up and it would be fine, as soon as you hit the key, BAM, starter wouldn't shut off unless you pulled the battery cable. Me and my dad tried everything, new starter motor, new key switch, new key cylinder, even new neutral safety switch. The only thing we didn't replace happened to be the issue the whole time... The solenoid.

 

[juggalo]

wouldn't the solenoid be tested along with the starter when i take it to an auto parts store? i would test it myself but my ohmmeter stopped workin.

 

[Setnev]

Again, the same result happened. Took it to the auto parts store to have it tested and the starter worked as it should, put it back on the car, and it would continuously run until the battery was disconnected. I'm tellin ya, its either the solenoid or the starter or both. Pull one from the J/Y and test it.

 

[juggalo]

ok

 

[escortrestorer]

sounds like the starter bendix is bad.

The way a starter is made, the bendix engages the drive on the starter. The starter disengages when the motor starts spinning faster than the starter. If your starter is not disengaging, you need to replace it.

 

[juggalo]

the whole starter?

 

[escortrestorer]

if you can rebuild it, you might start there, replace the starter drive, and the bushing. Check it all out. If you have never rebuilt a starter or dont know what you are doing, just pick up a starter from a salvage yard, or a new or reman starter. Most salvage yard starters, even when they do go bad, are just simple solenoid replacements, which is an easy fix.

Rebuilding a starter is pretty easy though. If you dont know how to do it, find a graphical walkthrough or some kinda instructions that you can understand clearly. Once you get the hang of doing it, you can easily save yourself around 100-200 bucks or so every time you need to replace a starter in the future.

or go to rockauto, and order a starter. You can get a new one for $90+shipping.

 

[juggalo]

i'll get on it. thanks.

 

[escortrestorer]

If you get stuck pm me and I will see if I can help.

 

[juggalo]

now my focus on this is the solenoid. when i release the key when the motor starts, the starter is still engaging for 3 seconds. when i release the key early, it studders for 3 seconds.

 

[escortrestorer]

im a little confused by your description.

If you release the key after starting the engine, the starter continues to turn for 3 seconds after the motor has started.

If you release the key before the engine starts, it stumbles for about 3 seconds then quits.

Am I interpreting this correctly?

If so, you can try the solenoid. Might have to replace the starter drive still though. Like I said earlier though, even if you do replace the drive, or fully rebuild the starter(which I would do if I had it apart anyways), it is stupid cheap compared to buying a reman.

 

[juggalo]

the motor will start but it does stumble for about 3 seconds. i've noticed it only happends after it sat for a couple hours

 

[juggalo]

ok so i haven't been able to get around to it yet due to the crappy western washington weather. but this is what i found in my chilton's handbook and might be the answer i was looking for.

chilton: to prevent damage caused by excessive starter armeture rotation when the engine starts, the starter incorporates and over-running clutch in the pinion gear.

so i pretty much just need to replace my starter is what it's lookin like.