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Started work on my 2001 ZX2 MTX

7K views 83 replies 3 participants last post by  krux303 
#1 · (Edited)
My 2001 sat for almost 2 years that served as my daily driver and so I bought a 2017 Escape so I could drive to work.

Apparently at some time a screw fell into the TB and sat there until whatever unique combination of forces allowed it to be sucked into the #3 cylinder valve. Eventually I found a 1998 head and am now attempting to install it. I am waiting for some lifter shims ordered online so I can complete the task.

After much tribulation and several attempts to complete the head repair I think I solved the problem. The symptoms and codes (P0340 & 1504) implied poor timing and much time was spent redoing timing. After much frustration I let the car sit. Yesterday I checked the timing and it was perfect. I have a spare IAC and plugged it in and it did nothing and so I followed the wires and the white wire from the CCRM was broken in two near the main connector above the intake manual and installed a splice. I also repaired the throttle cable adjustor as the plastic clamping device lost some of its elasticity to clamp by using a wire zip tie that is held in place by the OEM spring. I had to leave and will test later today...(5/22/2019)

I also fabricated a new header using the tubular Focus exhaust manifold. I cut off the Focus flange and used a piece of mandrel bent tube to make the offset down pipe and used a Napa exhaust flange to connect to cat. We'll see how it works when the head is installed. It still should be better than the old cast iron manifold.
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#3 · (Edited)
2001 ZX2 MTX Black.

Before I came into possession of my current S/R ( I was an original owner of a 2000 S/R that was totaled in an accident-hence "Defunct SR Owner"), I purchased this car from a Ford Dealer in 2006 with 35,000 original miles miles. Over time I convert it into an S/R to include the rear S/R badge. The only S/R option missing is the door decals. In time I removed the S/R intake and experimented with different intake configurations to include my own design of ram air. I currently use a modified MMI configuration.

The car has body damage to the rear passenger quarter from an accident that needs to be repaired.

I also removed the factory AC which freed up a lot of space for more modifications and allowed me to relocate the coolant overflow from the firewall to the passenger fender as used on the Escort, and makes accessing the alternator so much easier.

In addition to the S/R package (NGPO S/R PCM) I added Trubendz 2.25 inch stainless steel exhaust to which I recently added the modified Focus exhaust manifold. Other modifications include: MFactory LSD & Aluminum Fiddy, trunk mounted battery, Esslinger UDP, Powermaster Alt. ODP, Ford Racing Wires, Leather S/R seats and 17" rims and tires.

My next modification will be the Focus SVT intake system to which I have all of the components. Once the SVT intake is working properly I intend to supercharge the car with the Mahle Powerworks supercharger I bought a few years back.

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#4 ·
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I repaired the body damage to the right rear bumper cover and rear quarter, before:
After:
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An interesting side note, if you have ever had to remove/install a rear bumper cover you find the studs can break. The bolts are installed in pairs that are held together by plastic to ensure they align with the holes; in other words they are joined together with plastic and cannot be installed separately. Ford installs them on the internal reinforcing sub-member and then bond the sub-member to the bumper cover. The access hole to the studs makes it almost impossible to install a new stud set. To overcome this problem I used two 8mm flange nuts and two 3/4 diameter rare earth magnets. Place the bumper with the holes facing up. Set the 8mm nuts in the matched holes and place the magnets on the nuts. I used long nose pliers and positioned the stud set inside the access hole and near the holes. The magnets attract and align the studs with the nuts. Gently lift the nuts and the stud follow thru the holes, hold in place and rivet into place.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I also reassembled and cleaned the interior
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Its been awhile since my last post even though I've made some attempts to clear the codes...all that remains is P0340.

It starts well, idles well, accelerates well, does not die at stop signs...drive home and turn off the key-restart the car and the code reappears even thought the car runs fine.

Today I removed the engine harness to ensure it is sound. I removed the but splice (next to the main connector on the IM) on the white wire to the IAC and soldered the wires and sealed it with heat shrink tube. I did a continuity check of both CP sensor wires and get 00.0 omega.

I suppose a continuity check from the main connector to the PCM is next...
 
#6 ·
P0340 problem solved, it was the engine ground by the starter. It looked sound but when I removed the plastic coating the copper wire was all corroded. I replace and reconnected and no code. I took it for a long drive (with a 7 day plate sticker for $10) and passed the emissions test and now have new plates and legal again.

I also washed the S/R and it has new plates as well. $151 per car for the privilege of driving in Illinois...
 
#8 ·
The supercharger (Roots type) is for the 2000 thru 2004 Focus and so the PCMs are not interchangeable so I cannot use the Mahle re-flashed Focus PCM

First I need to install the Focus SVT intake and make sure it all works (the supercharger intake also use the adjustable plenum), then I can upgrade to the supercharger. I also need to learn how to reprogram PCMs
 
#9 ·
Started the prep work for installing the Focus SVT dual plenum intake. I found an aftermarket set of intake gaskets with the supercharger (the now defunct "Rock Gasket" and they fit) and have an email to Mahle to see if they have SVT gaskets.

I could not find a pigtail for the IMRC so I bought some micro female spade clips from the local electrical supplier and drilled six holes in some foam to keep the wire separated and pulled the listed color coded wires from a PCM connecter I had on hand. Assembled it all and coated it black "Flex Seal." I will do to the same electrical supplier and buy a six wire plug connector.

I cleaned and inspected the SVT components and Heli-coiled the throttle body mounting holes 6x1.0 when the throttle body would not tighten down.

Tomorrow I will go to Autozone and by the what I need to attach the MAF and K&N air filter. Then start again Monday.
 
#16 ·
No tuning as of yet; it is something I need to learn though as I will need that knowledge for the supercharger.
Any suggestions? Even if I have swap back to stock manifold I still have resolved the bothersome heater hose and fuel filter. Since it is to rain and snow tomorrow, perhaps I can install the remote oil filter adapter and put it on the drivers side unibody near the CCRM...

I suppose the pre dyno would be stock S/R hp+ a little...
 
#17 ·
No tuning as of yet; it is something I need to learn though as I will need that knowledge for the supercharger.
Any suggestions? Even if I have swap back to stock manifold I still have resolved the bothersome heater hose and fuel filter. Since it is to rain and snow tomorrow, perhaps I can install the remote oil filter adapter and put it on the drivers side unibody near the CCRM...

I suppose the pre dyno would be stock S/R hp+ a little...
If you have the funds, order up pro racer package from SCT. It's spendy but will be needed for tuning in your supercharger or anything modified. Id skip the S/R pcm for that. Eventually I'll be going pro racer package, so we could talk about tuning as I'm interested in learning. Evilzx2 can shed some light on this on his website.

As far as manifolds go. It seems you need to modify either way. Tough decision. I do know people run with the svt manifold, gains not sure of as anyone will say they saw increase but no backup.

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#24 ·
Same here on buying. Im going to buy it as well. I talk to evil on a weekly basis. Super knowledgeable.

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I couldn't get the SVT manifold to work properly so I pulled it and put the stock manifold back in. All is not lost though, I do have the heater hose against the firewall and no longer thru the manifold. I have an easily accessible fuel filter and oil filter now. I think oil changes will be 5 1/2 to 6 quarts but guess I can go longer between oil changes.
 
#67 ·
I dropped the case off for milling and should be done by the end of the day. I consulted with the owner (40 years experience) on the best way fasten it to the case and will not use the bolt pattern displayed by PAR.

The broken 3-4 shift fork overheated the Fidanza friction plate; fortunately I have a spar and will replace that today. The clutch is okay and the pressure plate just needs a little roughing up.

BTW the broken sleeve interlock that was damaged in my spare tranny is going into the Black car instead. The Mazda interlock is 27mm tall whereas the ford is 23mm. The 3-4 fork for the Mazda is the older style so I need to see if Ford still supports them.
 
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