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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm having some problems with my 1999 manual transmission Ford Escort that is causing me great frustration. I'm hoping that someone out there can help me. About a month and a half ago my car started bucking occasionally and randomly. I could still drive it but it was very annoying and I was having a hard time accelerating. Also, it was idleing with low RPM's that it sounded like it would stall on me, then the light came on "service engine soon." So I took it in to the dealer. Two visits to the shop later and $1200 poorer, it is STILL doing the same thing and it's even stalled on me three times in a weekend. I am extremely frustrated and helpless. Any suggestions? I have a call out to the Service Manager because I need it fixed and she said that she would "take care of it" if it acted up again. (We told them that we were not at all satisfied when we got the last service survey and I guess that's why she contacted me to start with).
 

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I would hate to say this since you've already been screwed out of 1200 dollars. but this is a common problem with Escorts...USUALLY on 2nd gens (I know yours is a 3rd gen) bucking appears when the intake tube is torn. Check it out for small cracks or tears.
 

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James92Scort said:
I would hate to say this since you've already been screwed out of 1200 dollars. but this is a common problem with Escorts...USUALLY on 2nd gens (I know yours is a 3rd gen) bucking appears when the intake tube is torn. Check it out for small cracks or tears.
Yep, all that and it could be a tear in a joint from a cheap rubber tube. When Emma hits the gas the motor leans back and opens the tear causing a huge vacume leak and the car to buck.

I would look for a tear on the intake tube, and if you find the tear go back to the shop and demand a refund because they chagred you for parts and work you did'nt need.

Just what exsactly did they say they fixed for that $1200?
A bad MAF, O2 sensor, or TPS can cause a problem like this, non of witch cost $1200
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
First visit was a coil for $300. Second visit was a new spark plug and a new computer b/c the old one was "set on off" or something like that. Sounds like BS to me, but what does that matter, I'm a woman which translates into $$$$$ for some auto shops.
 

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Well don't feel too bad. I got screwed out of $1k when the shop told me I had an interference engine and sent the head off to be reworked without confirming to me that it was actually damaged.


Two weeks later I had to take it back in because the oil rings had suddenly failed after the head was reworked and reinstalled with a new gasket. That was another $1k. At 19 yrs old, I didn't have that kinda cash money either...I had to borrow $1k from my dad. :evil:
 

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Emma said:
First visit was a coil for $300. Second visit was a new spark plug and a new computer b/c the old one was "set on off" or something like that. Sounds like BS to me, but what does that matter, I'm a woman which translates into $$$$$ for some auto shops.
I would not let that shop do any more work to your car, the only reasone for you to go back there would be to complain.

Coil $60-90 part
15 minuets to install.
The sad part is I'm 99% sure there was nothing wrong with your old coil.

Computers are exspensive, but than again you have a better chance to win the lottery twice in a row than to have a computer go bad, it just doe'nt happen that often to that new of a car.

This is what is probly wrong with your car:
Vacume leak (intake tube, stuck EGR)
O2 sesnor
That year has bad fuel pumps to.
 

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Emma has my sympathy. She's quite right that garages see women as a chance to rake in the £s ($s). That's the benefit of joining a site such as this where you can learn about your particular engine etc., and at least have some knowledge to take to the garage with you. I'm so lucky with the one I use in that they're very busy and, to my knowledge, have never carried out work to my car that was not necessary.

Btw: garage = workshop (or whatever you call it in the U.S.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok, now we have third visit with the Service Manager on the case and their top mechanic. Supposidly it now needs a new cam sensor. She says that she is willing to cover the labor (about 6hundred dollars) and the part would cost me $319. Please, some thoughts on this. Even thoughs on the price of part vs. the price of labor. I told her I'd get back to her later. Thank you eveyone for you innput.
 

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have them check the mass air flow sensor. Mine is doing the same thing and I am also blowing puffs of fire... I got a waring ticket for it. I know its my maf, I unplugged it and reset the ecu and started the car up it ran fine .but once I hook it up and let the car get warm it startes to buck and spit fire....damn, I might want to hook up the o2 sensor.. NOT
 

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Emma said:
Ok, now we have third visit with the Service Manager on the case and their top mechanic. Supposidly it now needs a new cam sensor. She says that she is willing to cover the labor (about 6hundred dollars) and the part would cost me $319. Please, some thoughts on this. Even thoughs on the price of part vs. the price of labor. I told her I'd get back to her later. Thank you eveyone for you innput.
I have never heard of a CAM sensor going out on a Escort, I dont think the car would even run if it was bad.

I would guess that its:
A bad MAF.
Tear in intake tube (vacume leak).
O2 sensor.
Maybe the throttle Pos. Sensor.

I'm starting to think that the shop is just taking random guess at what part to replace next.
You should not have to pay them any more, you allready paid for them to fix the problem and they did not do there job.
 

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(Print the following and present to the shop *run spell check)

The following information is in regards to a 1999 Ford Escort 2.0 Split Port Induction manual transmition.

The Symptoms of bucking while accelerating and slow idle is a result from a improper Air Fuel ratio.
The normal cause is unmetered air entering the engine. This could be caused by several things.
A vacume leak, commonly a tear in the joint of the rubber air intake tube from the air flow meter to the throttle body.
A stuck EGR valve.
A faulty MAF "Mass Air Flow" (air flow meter)
Faulty expired "bank one" Oxygen sensor, the incorrect feed back to the PCM will cause a incorrent A/F (air fuel) ratio.
Wore TPS (throttle postioning sensor).
The "non-return line" pulsed width controlled Fuel pump is common to fail in 98 and new Escorts

This is not a normal cause from:
Ignition system:
Escort OEM Spark plugs only require service every 100,000 miles.
Escort OEM DIS ignition coil pack is known for being very reliable, lasting the life of the vehical, a faulty coil would cause differnt symptoms.
A faulty cam sensor would cause the Escort to not run at all.
Faulty computer.
 

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sportscort93 said:
have them check the mass air flow sensor. Mine is doing the same thing and I am also blowing puffs of fire... I got a waring ticket for it. I know its my maf, I unplugged it and reset the ecu and started the car up it ran fine .but once I hook it up and let the car get warm it startes to buck and spit fire....damn, I might want to hook up the o2 sensor.. NOT
Dude it's not your MAF thats screwed up, it's the fact that your not running a O2 sensor. Your forcing the car to go in limp mode. Limp mode runs the car super rich, that why you have the fire and exsess fuel. Its not good to run it that way for long, it only hurts performance and gas milage.
And the car runs fine at first because a car ignors the O2 signal untill its at runnig temp (open loop mode), than it needs the O2 signal once its warmed up.
 

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Maybe im going out on a limb here but usualy when u go to start up your car and your cam sensor is bad the engine switches into a mode that tries to find the corect firing order. And im not for sure but I beileve the cam sensor also tells u your rpm's. If ur cam sensor was bad on a start up then u should have no tach. But i do have the same problem with my car , SHO, i will get bucking untill i restart. 319 for the sensore? Could that posibly be right mine was only 33 bux from the auto store. Some one correct me if im wrong... im sure i am. :?
 

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ZX2rip said:
Maybe im going out on a limb here but usualy when u go to start up your car and your cam sensor is bad the engine switches into a mode that tries to find the corect firing order. And im not for sure but I beileve the cam sensor also tells u your rpm's. If ur cam sensor was bad on a start up then u should have no tach. But i do have the same problem with my car , SHO, i will get bucking untill i restart. 319 for the sensore? Could that posibly be right mine was only 33 bux from the auto store. Some one correct me if im wrong... im sure i am. :?
I'm not 100% sure, but I would think if the cam signal was not with in tolerance the computer would assume that the timming belt broke and turn off the motor to stop any further damage.
It would get real ugly real fast if the computer tried to guess where the cam was to keep it running if the t-belt was broken.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Grrrr! This is so ongoing. So, she told me before that it was the CAM filter and the price of what it is. That sounds pretty final? right? I told her that I'd get back to her with my decision of if I would go ahead with the service. Well, now the mechanic is out test driving it to see if he can reproduce the stalling. WHAT?! Did they miss something? If I said Yes, would something have been missed? again? Ugh. Never again will I go to them. And maybe not even for this. They still have some more questions of mine to answer and I guess more shop time. Sorry if I sound like a big complainer, but you people have given me lots of helpful information and support, so far. Thank you.
 

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First off, what about the parts that they allready replaced and charged you for that did'nt fix the problem you paid for them to fix ?

I say thay either have to give you a refund on that service you didnt actully get, or they should not charge you for any more parts or labor and fix what you paid them to fix?

Do they have some kind of fix it right the first time garentee?

If you can, post here what they want to do next and we will help you decide if what they want to do is right.

They need to stop charging you for parts that are not bad. :evil:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
We called the Ford parts department this morning and the quote for the CAM sensor was about $18. Pissed as we were, and full of information from here and other places, we went to Ford. They were unable to reproduce the stalling. We confronted the price difference and they changed the part on us. It is now a Variable or Variation Timer or Timer sensor, something like that. How convenient. After speaking with two "management" people, they flat out refuse to refund our money that they charged me eventhough the problem is still there and seems (to me) to be getting worse every time they see the car. My car is now safe at home and we have threatened a lawyer. My husband is now speaking with the Ford Corporation. I'll keep you posted. Oh, and of course my car drives fine home.
 
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