Discussion in 'Drivetrains' started by LariRudi, Aug 3, 2013.
Probably yes; but it would depend on being able to measure the distances fairly accurately.
If the mechanics of the hydraulics are correct then the problem is internal. No manner of hoping, unfortunately is going to change that. But yes if it is failing to release, as a last measure before disassembly I would max-out the length of the clutch pedal push rod.
In terms of an engine mount causing this, I don't think that is likely unless the stabilizer link between the transmission and shift seat also has bad bushings or is busted. I've not read of any cases of that stabilizer link in any way failing.
It is not exactly unheard of, of new parts going bad. This is why I never touched my pilot bearing when (unecessarily) replacing my clutch disc. I don't trust new parts any farther than I can throw them.
This sounds like a similar problem I was having after putting the 302/T5 in my Volvo. It turns out, I had not adjusted the clutch cable properly and the clutch was not releasing enough to allow for smooth shifts (or sometimes at all). To my surprise, even after adjusting it and making it work properly, the nylon adjusting threads were stripped and it would easily fall out of adjustment over a short period of time until I built an aluminum snap-sleeve to keep the adjustment solid.
I know mine was cable operated and yours is hyd, but the concept is the same. If you can confirm that you have proper travel at the slave then I would suspect an internal problem, possibly even a failed/cracked clutch fork or a faulty release bearing. I have a hard time believing that a pilot bearing could cause this problem. They are so small and insignificant that I could not imagine it being strong enough to seize the input shaft to the crank.
OK, same car, same problem, but another idea that I'm wondering about.
I got the car insured so that I could drive it a good bit to get more hours on it under my belt. Yes, it's getting WORSE.... but I discovered something else that I'd like your comments/help on.
Even in 5th gear, when I press the accelerator rapidly, or let it off rapidly, I'm hearing a very definite CLUNK; I'm seeing in my mind that an engine mount [let me call it a "torque" mount?] is allowing my engine to rotate drastically; Yes, I could have a helper watch while I try it in first and/or reverse [being careful, yes] to SEE if the motor IS rotating against that torque or not, but I think it IS definitely rotating in there.
So if you agree [or even if you don't, ha] could you tell me WHICH motor or tansmission mount is the one most responsible to keep this from happening?
Though any of the mounts could be making the clunk sound, the ones that handle most of the twisting of the motor from torque would be the two under the bell housing. The one toward the back near the firewall is the one that gets bathed by any oil leak from engine or transmission, but is also by far the more difficult to extract and replace. Checking for signs of either of those mounts being ripped or shifting due to the nuts being loose is probably worth while.
My 94LX, my only 5-speed, was making a definite clunk, when starting out or going from acceleration to coasting or vice-versa. I assumed it was a failed motor mount - but it wasnt. The two bolts on that front-to-rear-crossmember were loose. In fact they had both backed out about 1/4". Tightening them back up eliminated the clunk noise. When starting out from a stop the engine tries to twist counter to the direction it is trying to turn the wheels, which would apparently lift the crossmember up at the front; then let it drop back down when I took my foot off the gas. I assume a similar clunk would have been happening if the two nuts on the studs at the back end of the front to rear crossmember were loose. Over the years member have had those nuts be stripped or missing, or the studs themselves snapped.
Try to visualize the forces on the front suspension too. When starting out, the wheels are being rotated, trying to bring the car up to speed. This causes the knuckle to try to move forward, pulling the control arm forward and pulling the suspension strut forward. Any loose fitting on the pivots of the control arm might cause a noise, and any movement between the strut housing and the strut rod (which should have only smooth up-down movement could also make a noise. This would include broken elements of the anti-sway bar.
To see these forces myself; I had my wife sit in our 92LX, with the nose of the car up against a tree and the handbrake on and with the engine running. I had her shift it into drive, to reverse, & back to drive a couple of times. I wanted to see how much things shifted. I was surprised how much the engine/trans twisted and moved fore and after on its mounts, and how much the position of the front wheels moved fore an aft on the suspension.
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