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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, I need help on this. I have a ´95 LX wagon. I know it´s supposed to be slow, but every few days, ´slow´ is an understatement. Like today for example.

The car starts well, but like today, I back out of the driveway, put it into drive, and step on the accelerator. It´s kind of like slow motion. The intake gurgles more than usual, and the car goes nowhere really really slowly. It doesn´t feel rough or anything, just like there´s no power.

This only happens every few days, or once a week, but it´s really getting annoying, because I know the car isn´t that slow.

If anyone has had this happen, or knows what the problem could be, please help.
 

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How was the humidity outside when you pulled out?

You might have been sucking in too much moisture to get a clean burn????
 

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Sudden EXTREME change in Density-Altitude ?!?!?

Well, I know exactly what you mean, I feel it in my GT sometimes. It kinda feels like the AC just got turned on. I always kinda attribute it to misreadings from the sensors to the ECU and the ECU not working everything out right. Like today I started feeling alot of flat spots on my accel curve.

Well here´s what I always do:
1. Clean/Replace air filter
2. Examine cap, rotor, wires and plugs
3. <<Check to see the E-Brake isn´t catching some how
>>
4. Check vacuum lines
5. Get better gas
6. Check fuel filter / lines
7. Check mileage for oil change, and weight of oil contrasted to outside temp that night. (the 10Dub30 doesn´t like it when it gets a little too cold that night)
8. PCV valve (I dont know why...just is an easy check)
9. Watch your temp (is the thermostat acting up, or the IACV ?)

Well, that´s all the stuff I think about on those days the scort needs a foot down the Xost pipe. But as my Mustang friend pointed out, "Some days Fords just wont even start, others they put chevy´s to shame. Give em time, they seem to fix themselves."
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Okay, it´ll probably be different from a GT, but I´ll try some of those things. It´s not like the a/c is turned on tho, because on a good escort day, i can turn that on without any power problems... as for the suggestions:

1. Clean/Replace air filter

Cone filter looks good, only got it a few months ago...

2. Examine cap, rotor, wires and plugs

New plugs, my car no have cap/rotor, wires though... would they cause that to happen every few days or so? doesn´t happen all the time..

3. < >> <---?
4. Check vacuum lines

I´ve checked everything I can see, hose clamps, vacuum lines, hoses..etc.

5. Get better gas

87 octane is bad? I am so poor though. Same thing, would this cause the problem all the time, or only on occasion.

6. Check fuel filter / lines

Will do.

7. Check mileage for oil change, and weight of oil contrasted to outside temp that night. (the 10Dub30 doesn´t like it when it gets a little too cold that night)

That night was pretty nice, oil change is due, but problem occurs whether oil has been changed recently, or left for a year, doesn´t seem to have an effect.

8. PCV valve (I dont know why...just is an easy check)

Replaced that and the little elbow tube recently.

9. Watch your temp (is the thermostat acting up, or the IACV ?)

Temp is okay, Slow coolant leak from rad (REALLY slow). Only overheats in the winter.

Could the O2 sensor cause this at all? I completely powerfoamed the motor, that made it stop ticking, but didn´t do anything for this problem. Car was good today though. Yesterday I was getting really pissed at it.

 

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Well the O2 sensor is a sensor that helps the ECU adjust itself, so I it could be a prob. (could explain my probs too).

With the GT, I know the compression is 9:1 and the bore is 3.27 and the stroke is 3.35 and according to the math you should run 88 octane on those numbers. So for the heck of it try putting in a full tank of premium and add a little Redline Fuel Treatment Cleaner. The stuff does wonders to some dirtbikes and Quads I´ve seen torn down to the insides.
 

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The radiator leak is scary has it ever gotten real hot? When cold does it blow smoke?Is there any cream colored goo on the inside of the oil cap or the dip stick?Is there oil in your water or water in the oil?When you remove the oil cap when running is there alot of blow by?Hows the compression?If these things all check out then look for codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Didn´t figure it out. Now my check engine light is on. Not all the time, just sometimes. It´ll come on for a few minutes, then go off for a while, then it´ll come on again...etc. It can be on and off in a few minutes, or stay for half an hour. No specific times, no specific situation. On the smooth highway it can come on and off, and on bumpy roads it can come on and off.

Do you think it may be a loose sensor? Is my lack of power maybe related to this? Any and all input is appreciated.
 

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i had my check engine light come on before, just after i bought my Scort (used). turned out it was a radiator leak (only like 1 drop every few days though), but after a replacement, it hasn´t gone on since!
 

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Try this. Take off the air intake tube between the mass air meter and the throttle body. Check to see if It is cracked. Mine is, and electrical tape over the cracks will tell you in a hurry if that is the problem. Due to motor flex, the cracks can open up alot and suck in un-metered air, which screws up the computer due to unexpected O2 readings. (that could even throw on your engine light, if it went out of range enough). Then the crack can pinch itself closed, and the car runs good. Only takes 10 minutes to check & see. IF you tape it up & it fixes the problem, get a new one from the dealer, or better yet step up to an aftermarket steel or aluminum one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I don´t have the stock intake pipe...mine is new, only got it last summer.

Well, I finally decided I´d had enough of my car whining all the time, so I got a code check done on it. These were all the problems:

MAF contaminated
IAC valve messed up, recall on that.
O2 sensor dead

I´ll try to replace them someday....
 

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MAF Contaminated??? Huh?

is that supposed to mean that is full of gunk or something.....

Well anyway...I did a full cleaning of my whole intake system this past Saturday...

-Cleaned and re-oiled my cone filter (and cover breather for the heck of it)
-Cleaned entire MAF assembly with "Carb cleaner"
-Cleaned temp sensor
-Cleaned interior of the intake pipe
-"Carb cleaned" my TB (a lot of black gunk in there).

And it now runs a lot better...a lot smoother

I hate o2 sensors ....they go all the time ...blah ....add another thing to replace on mine ....blah!

_________________
Skuce
´91 ELX 5 dr.

[ Edited by Skuce On Date 06-04-2002 ]
 

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<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%>[TR][TD]Quote:

[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]
On 2002-06-04 23:24, Skuce wrote:
re-oiled my cone filter (and cover breather for the heck of it)
[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]

[/TD][/TR][/TABLE]

what needs oiling? i guess i wouldn´t really know, mine´s stock for now, i wanna get a cone in a couple months once i have the cash
 

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The cotton filter media need cleaning and oiling every so often...it´s how it works.

It´s the oil that catches the dust and debris.

If it wasn´t oiled....you might as well not even have the filter on there.....cause most of the dust will go right through it.
 

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My niece´s LX had the CEL come on and off like you mentioned. Change out the O2 sensor...about $40.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hey Skuce, you wanna help me fix my tracer? It needs a lot to pass the safety, and it smells bad!

Actually, It only has a couple of small floor holes, needs frt brakes, a whole load of stuff...wheel bearings...calipers...

I´m getting the list later today. I´ll post it up here if anyone feels generous enough to help.

I´ve got a can of carb cleaner, so I guess I´ll be cleaning out my MAF later on as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
My check engine light went off, although I didn´t do anything to fix the car. Now the battery light´s on. Does anyone know what sort of warranty ford alternators have? Mine was just replaced in ´99 and now it´s broken again.
 
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