Engine - SOHC 2.0 SPI --> DOHC 2.0 VCT Sw | Page 2 | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)
  1. Wash your hands and do not touch your face, keep it safe and clean. Long live Feoa!

Engine SOHC 2.0 SPI --> DOHC 2.0 VCT Sw

Discussion in 'Engine Swaps' started by Rectilinear, Mar 30, 2015.

  1. novanutcase

    novanutcase FEOA Member

    Messages:
    2,514
    Likes Received:
    593
    Trophy Points:
    263
    Thanks and I will take you up on your offer. I was going to wait and let you catch your breath but at the same time I'd like to catch you when it's still fresh in your mind.

    PM on the way....

    John
  2. Rectilinear

    Rectilinear FEOA Member

    Messages:
    154
    Likes Received:
    30
    Trophy Points:
    128
    Location:
    Plano, TX
    Thanks for the pm. Feel free to contact me when you have questions but be prepared. I am obsessed with cars and tend to talk a lot when on the topic!

    I had the chance to look at the car a bit last night and figure out the cooling fan. The previous owner had dicked with the wiring and added an extra relay in for the a/c clutch for some reason. Cleared that out and re-soldered the wires and it seems to work as it should now.

    I drove it for the first time last night but it still has a low rev stumble. I believe this may have been an existing issue when I got the car but since the right rear tire was shoved into the strut housing from the wreck I couldn't exactly drive it around a bunch to figure it out. Going to check the IAC and TPS when I get the chance.

    I lost a bit of time last night since one of my wife's friends lost her credit card in the console of her '14 Grand Caravan when it slid down the top of a tambour door. Had to take the entire thing out to dig it out from under the dash!
  3. novanutcase

    novanutcase FEOA Member

    Messages:
    2,514
    Likes Received:
    593
    Trophy Points:
    263
    Probably would have been easier to have a new one mailed to her...;)

    John
  4. Rectilinear

    Rectilinear FEOA Member

    Messages:
    154
    Likes Received:
    30
    Trophy Points:
    128
    Location:
    Plano, TX
    You would think. She bought it used so I wad kind of hoping to find some other treasures down there, too!
  5. Rectilinear

    Rectilinear FEOA Member

    Messages:
    154
    Likes Received:
    30
    Trophy Points:
    128
    Location:
    Plano, TX
    Today was a long awaited day indeed. I drove the wagon to work for the first time since the swap. This thing really runs great and even though I am taking it easy until the engine is good and broken in I can tell already that the swap was worth it. My butt-dyno can really feel the added hp!

    I have been having a hard time finding the time to finish it up until yesterday. I had a coolant leak at the thermostat housing to the head (I may still have the same leak even after the new seal I just installed), what a stupid design that is!
    I also had a slight miss as if it was dropping a cylinder. Came to realize last night that when we put the spark plugs in we only put them in hand tight in order to keep from dropping anytihng down into the cylinders. One day I will learn to not depend on my memory to double check it all. So #2 had a compression loss that was fixed as soon as the plugs were all checked and reinstalled. Ran like a champ as soon as I fixed that.

    While I was messing with the axles, I realized how bad my front wheel bearings were so I pressed in new bearings and replaced the ball joints that had torn boots on them. I also swapped over the ZX2 struts to the wagon and it feels better to drive all around.

    Half way through the 20 mile commute the Service Engine Soon light came on. It is running great and the temp was good on it so I will check everything visually before I drive it home and run the codes when I get there since I forgot and left my scanner in my toolbox. I still suspect the IAC since it still hunts for idle a bit. It is probably gummed up with 14 years of intake goo.
  6. novanutcase

    novanutcase FEOA Member

    Messages:
    2,514
    Likes Received:
    593
    Trophy Points:
    263
    Have you had a chance to look into some aftermarket upgrades? I know you just got done getting it in the car and your chasing a few gremlins but the aftermarket for zetecs is much better than for our little SPI's.

    John
  7. Rectilinear

    Rectilinear FEOA Member

    Messages:
    154
    Likes Received:
    30
    Trophy Points:
    128
    Location:
    Plano, TX
    A friend of mine took the liberty to look into that for me but you are right, I'm just not there yet. He told me there was tons of parts out there for the Zetec but I've been so busy just getting it running that I haven't had the chance to start drooling over shiny parts yet!
  8. novanutcase

    novanutcase FEOA Member

    Messages:
    2,514
    Likes Received:
    593
    Trophy Points:
    263
    So just as a recap. You suggest that whoever is going to do this swap should get a parts car to do this. Also, you feel it would be best(and easiest) to just pull the whole driveline out and drop it into the engine bay without taking stuff apart.

    The wagon I have is an ATX that I would like to convert to an MTX. The donor car that I am thinking of getting is an MTX ZX2 so I could swap over all the manual parts like clutch pedal, shift linkage, etc. The only thing I would need to get at the yard would be the console for a manual out of a wagon and swap it over. Do you know if there would be any issues with the MTX stuff that I'll need to swap over?

    John
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2015
  9. Rectilinear

    Rectilinear FEOA Member

    Messages:
    154
    Likes Received:
    30
    Trophy Points:
    128
    Location:
    Plano, TX
    You got it right! But you should also be able to use the console out of the ZX2...better yet, you should be able to use the shifter and boot out of the ZX2 and use it with your console. The opening is the same and the boot just pops out of the hole where the ATX shifter comes through.
    Shift linkage will be no problem to swap over and the pedals will bolt in as well. The wagon has a cover over the hole where the clutch master is in the firewall. remove the cover and bolt in the master in that spot. You will then need to swap over either the brake master cylinder or just the reservoir off of it so you have the hose fitting to feed brake fluid to the clutch.
    Since Ford designed these cars to have one base chassis to support multiple driveline configurations, the swap should be really simple to execute. I have done several Volvo ATX to MTX swaps in the past and they are just as simple.

    The only thing I am not sure about on the Escort is whether you need the entire pedal box for the clutch pedal or if you can just add the clutch pedal to the existing box. Worth a look since changing the pedal box could actually be the hardest part about the whole swap.
  10. novanutcase

    novanutcase FEOA Member

    Messages:
    2,514
    Likes Received:
    593
    Trophy Points:
    263
    From what I've been told the clutch pedal is separate from the rest of the assembly exactly for the reasons you outlined that being the base chassis for multiple drivelines so the swap should be fairly cut and dry.

    ***EDIT***

    I was wrong. The brake and clutch are on the same assembly.

    John
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2015
  11. Rectilinear

    Rectilinear FEOA Member

    Messages:
    154
    Likes Received:
    30
    Trophy Points:
    128
    Location:
    Plano, TX
    So... I'm not intending to get in here and complain but I am frustrated about this thing right now.

    I've been driving the car all week (except today) and it has been running good, not great, but good. I have been getting the "flutter" when I accelerate from a stop which from what I have been able to research, means the coil may be going out. So I get home yesterday and I popped the hood, just to do a visual on the whole install and notice that there is a blue-ish clear "goo" dripping from the coil connector plug. So I look into it some more and realize that these connectors frequently fail. Okay, fine. Although I find nothing to support this, I have to assume that when the coil begins to fail, the resistance is higher than normal and this makes the connector overheat. So I need a new coil and a connector to go along with it.

    Yesterday while driving home, I noticed that the engine would seem to rev a bit between shifts. You would expect the rpm's to fall between shifts when you are off the throttle, right? Well eventually I had a runaway throttle while sitting in traffic at a stoplight. Car in neutral and none of the pedals depressed, the engine revved to 3500 rpm for about 5-6 seconds and then fell to idle. Freaked me out a bit but no harm done. It did this 4 more times before I got home and leads me to believe that the IAC valve is surely toast or is dirty enough to cause these issues. I have meant to check it all week but I have been really to tired and frankly sick of being under the hood of this thing right now.

    I still love this car, and I realize that some of these issues were pre-existing on the parts car that I bought. The swap is still worth it but I am over it. Looking at another $200+ in parts to correct both of these issues, or go to the junkyard this weekend, pull 2 of everything and take my chances.
  12. novanutcase

    novanutcase FEOA Member

    Messages:
    2,514
    Likes Received:
    593
    Trophy Points:
    263
    What exhaust did you use? As far as I know the SPI flange is different than the escort zetec flange. Were you able to use the headers from the zetec?

    Sorry to hear about your issues....

    John
  13. Rectilinear

    Rectilinear FEOA Member

    Messages:
    154
    Likes Received:
    30
    Trophy Points:
    128
    Location:
    Plano, TX
    I used the Zetec and catalytic converter/downpipe from the ZX2. The SPI mani and cat will not work on the Zetec.
  14. novanutcase

    novanutcase FEOA Member

    Messages:
    2,514
    Likes Received:
    593
    Trophy Points:
    263
    Is the cat in the same location as the SPI? Since you used the Zetec header and cat I assume the rest of the exhaust bolted right up to it?

    John
  15. madmatt2024

    madmatt2024 FEOA Member

    Messages:
    9,849
    Likes Received:
    410
    Trophy Points:
    383
    Location:
    Upstate N.Y.
    The exhaust after the cat is basically the same between the SPI and Zetec.
  16. madmatt2024

    madmatt2024 FEOA Member

    Messages:
    9,849
    Likes Received:
    410
    Trophy Points:
    383
    Location:
    Upstate N.Y.
    In most cases the coil pack and connector are the same between the SPI and Zetec. Just use the ones from your old engine.
  17. Rectilinear

    Rectilinear FEOA Member

    Messages:
    154
    Likes Received:
    30
    Trophy Points:
    128
    Location:
    Plano, TX
    I wish I had checked this thread over the weekend.... Thanks for that. I already bought a new coil and connector and installed it.

    As much as I have been investigating similar parts between the two, I can't believe I failed to realize this before I spent the $ on new. Oh well.

    The good news is, the car was running very well on my commute this morning. I pulled and cleaned the iac while I was at it this weekend. It looked really good and I could see no obvious signs of wear, but I did replace the seal for it while I was there. I guess it's just wait and see now for the runaway throttle.
  18. Rectilinear

    Rectilinear FEOA Member

    Messages:
    154
    Likes Received:
    30
    Trophy Points:
    128
    Location:
    Plano, TX
    So far so good with the coil and connector. It runs pretty good until the temp gets above the halfway mark, then it tends to stumble a bit on occasion while accelerating from a dead stop. I will likely get a new set of plug wires to see if this fixes that issue. I have had that problem in the past on a Chevy truck. I chased down $400 worth of parts by the time I found out I had a bad set of "new" wires on it. They wires were affected by temperature so it ran fine when cold but after it warmed up, it stumbled.

    Bigger issue:
    Somehow I got this engine put together without plastigaging the rod bearings. I checked the mains and they were fine but I got the rod bearings from a different vendor/different brand. By the time I got them I was anxious to get it put together, even before I knew it was going to take me all week to put it together and get it in the car.
    I had never had issues with clearances before after all the engines I have built so I skipped this step this time around and just put them together. Well, as I drive this, I notice they are making more and more noise. Worst when the engine is cold and not very noticeable when warm. I am going to order a new set of rod bearings and go in from underneath to replace them. From looking at it, I see no reason why I can not replace the bearings while the engine is in the car. This will likely happen this weekend.
  19. novanutcase

    novanutcase FEOA Member

    Messages:
    2,514
    Likes Received:
    593
    Trophy Points:
    263
    Before you go buying more unneeded parts, if you still have the old plug wires, why not try those first? They were working perfectly fine before your motor grenaded right?

    John
  20. Rectilinear

    Rectilinear FEOA Member

    Messages:
    154
    Likes Received:
    30
    Trophy Points:
    128
    Location:
    Plano, TX
    They would work fine as an experiment but they do not have the valve cover seals built onto them like the Zetec has.

    Come on, let me fire the parts cannon again!! lol

Share This Page