Well after much thought since my SPI dropped both #4 valve seats, I am going forward with a DOHC swap from a ZX2. The car to be fixed: 1999 Escort Wagon SOHC 2.0 SPI / manual transmission The donor car: 2001 Escort ZX2 DOHC 2.0 SPI / automatic transmission The wagon will remain a manual trans car since I can't stand automatics. First, I tore down the engine to see how bad the damage was. Though the valve seats dropped in the #4 cylinder, the compression upon failure distributed pieces of shattered valve seat material into the other cylinders. 3 out of 4 pistons were destroyed. When I pulled the head off, two of the head bolts (in the water jackets) were seized and snapped off in the block. I was very disappointed in all of the dmage to the short block since otherwise your could clearly see the crosshatching as it had been a well cared for engine. But this brought me to the point where the block would have to come out and be rebuilt or replaced. Time to tear down! So I got my hands on a 2001 ZX2 that had been wrecked in front and rear in the recent ice storm. I checked out the engine and it sounded great. No rattles or knocks, good idle, just a slight stumble off idle from what I think was the vacuum leak on the firewall. I tore into the ZX2 gently to learn as much as I could about the swap. All in all, it went pretty well. I pulled both engine and trans out together. As it hung on the hoist, I marvelled at the packaging of the engine and trans. I am very used to working on RWD cars, but the FWD is a different beast for me. I appreciate the thought that went into packaging the accessories and vital components to fit the engine compartment. Although the intake manifold is plastic, the flange is absolutely massive at just over an inch thick. I pulled the timing components off of the DOHC first. My intent was to replace the timing belt, water pump, tensioners, any leaky seals and bolt it all up to the manual trans out of my car. Upon getting the accessories and timing components out fo the way, I notice an older coolant seep at the corner of the head. This discovery was a bit disheartening as I was hoping to do minimal work on this donor but now is the time. I want to do this and do it right the first time around, so here we go.... I got it all stripped down of the accessories, sensors, brackets, intake and exhaust and started pulling off the valve cover. I pulled off the cover to find a very clean engine, seemingly taken care of pretty well, too after 141K miles. This brought me to the point where I needed to pull the camshaft bearing caps which use a bolt I had never encountered before. These are External Torx or E-sockets. No big deal as Sears, some auto parts stores and places like Harbor Freight and Northern Tools keeps them in stock. For the camshaft bearing cap bolts, you will need an E10 socket. But before pulling the caps, you will need to remove the VCT pulley off of the exhaust side camshaft. There is a cap on the VCT pulley that needs to be removed by using a torx socket, this will expose the much larger external torx bolt underneath. I believe that it takes an E20, but I was unable to confirm this since an E20 is apparently very difficult to get a hold of in this area. Northern Tools is supposed to carry a set of them, but my location was out and I decided not to drive 17 miles to get them. I confirmed that a 12 point 16m socket is all that needed to remove this bolt. Keep all the caps and bolts organized when they come off, you will need to replace them in the same manner as they came out. After the cams come out, you can acces the T55 Torx head bolts underneath. I stripped the head of all of the cam followers and anything else tht could fall out and get lost or damaged at a machine shop. A breaker bar is needed to get the head bolts out as they are under a lot of torque. After the bolts are out, remove the head and inspect it and the head gasket. I have gotten myself to this point now. The head looks really good but I am going to take it to the machine shop to have it cleaned and surfaced for the new gasket. After I got this far, I found that while the engine seems to be in pretty good shape, the cylinders show some signs of wear. If they showed the fresh crosshatching like my SPI did, I would leave it be but this is not the case, so I will drop it off with the head so it can be checked out, cleaned and propbably bored .010 over if not more. I found a master rebuild kit that includes pistons, gaskets, bearings, oil pump and seals. As soon as I know what sizes I need in everything, I will get it on order. In the meantime, I will continue to work on the wagon, to get it ready to accept the swap. I still need to pull out the shortblock and trans, clean the compartment out and start switching over the various wires and brackets, hoses and such that I need for the DOHC. I'll continue to get pics and document the swap as I go along. I hope to wrap this up in the next week or two.