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The shifter on my 1998 ZX2 is stuck in park. I understand there's a little solenoid in there under the console that is probably sticking and locking the lever. Where is the solenoid and how to I reset it? Thanks.
 

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there's a little hole on the shifter face in the upper right corner that is covered by a cap. pop the cap off with a screwdriver and find something about the size of a pencil and slide all the way to the bottom of the hole. it's a override for the shift solenoid. (i have the same problem too.)
 

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Awesome. Thanks so much. If this works for me, is it OK to repeat it whenever I need to until I get it fixed? What would the fix be, a new solenoid?
 

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Use it temporarily til you fix the shifter solenoid thing.
 

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Shift lock solenoid repair, without removing the solenoid

I am an electrical/electronics tech by trade. So if it has wires going to it I try to fix it first before buying another! I have done other repairs on the car like this saving me hundreds of dollars in new parts. Prior to this repair I repaired the CRRM (?) module because the A/C/ clutch was not engaging. :D

One electrcial/electronic troubleshooting stradegy I use is to suspect the moving parts first (switches and relays). I did so in this repair.

My 2000 Escort Se began having problems with the shift lock not disengaging the lock to move lever out of park. With a troubleshooting light I checked for 12-vdc at the solenoid connector - with the key ON Yellow wire 12-vdc always on, on the blue wire with 12-vdc whenever the brake pedal is pressed. That all checked.

I followed the wires to the little plastic box attached to the shift lock solenoid. With the key off I used a utility knife to CAREFULLY cut the little box away from the solenoid. It was rather easy as it is only attached to the solenoid body on ONE end only - the end opposite where the wires come in - attached at the end where the plunger goes in and out.

Once the little box was free the tiny circuit board inside it UNPLUGS from the solenoid just like something that unplugs from a wall outlet. I opened the little box to fully expose a little circuit bard. It has ONLY two (2) components on it - a miniature relay NEC EA2-9NJ and a 320 ohm resistor. I did not suspect the solenoid coil itself (the part with the plunger) because it is just a roll of wire with no moving parts. I checked the relay and sure enough it was bad. When I went to order it I realized that the "9NJ" portion of the part number says it is a 9-vdc relay of the non latching type. Hmmmm, why did Ford put a 9 volt relay in a 12 volt system???? A failure by design item??? I ordered an NEC EA2-12NJ relay instead with the proper 12 volt rating. Cost? A little over two dollars plus shipping.

While I waited for the relay to arrive I removed the bad relay using an exacto knife to cut through the leads "feet" of the relay. They are thin soft time metal and cut away easily. Cut between the body of the relay and the circuit board. DO NOT PRY OR ATTEMPTED TO FORCEFULLY LIFT IT. I DID NOT attempt to remove the relay by desoldering to avoid damaging the board. Only after the relay was removed did I use de-solder wick and tooth picks to clean the little relay mounting holes up. It is important NOT to force the removal of ANY debris to avoid damaging the board. It is important NOT to overheat any of the solder pads or they will separate from the board. If your solder skills are not up to it get a buddy to do it or take the work to a TV shop that will do the work for you for a few bucks.

The new relay arrived a few days later. I soldered it in and put the little circuit board back inside the little plastic box. I lined up the two little tabs with the socket on the solenoid and plugged it in. I tried it - key on, brake pedal depressed. IT WORKS!! Yesss! I used a couple of zip ties to keep the little box/circuit board plugged in and tightly held against the side of the solenoid. Keep in mind that at no time did I remove the solenoid itself. It remained in the car. If you wsih you can check the solenoid by applying 12-vdc to it directly and watch it actuate.

Bottom line, maybe two hours of work. Cost? The dealer want about $150 for a new one. Cost to repair it? Less that $6 with shipping.

Lou
 

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Re: Shift lock solenoid repair, without removing the solenoi

Thanks for the info on the solenoid and removal I also took pictures to make sure if I had to do it again. Now all I have to do is find out where I can buy the relay.

Krunch
 

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I know this is a old thread but did anyone take pictures? My car is stuck in park and I think the suggestion by Lou would fix it.
 

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Lou, thank you for your most-helpful response to this thread. I am a time traveler writing you from the distant future, the year 2020!

You would not believe the shit unfolding around the world as we enter into the second decade since your post. I don't want to screw up the space time continuum here, but on the off chance it's still early 2008 when you get this: Short the housing market, and don't bother updating your MySpace! Also, global warming is real, but we're still trying to solve it by re-branding consumerism as sustainability.

But I digress. Here's the 2020 update to this repair (i.e. with photos).

1. The commonly available part number today is EA2-12NU

2. Here is the stupid part you have to open up to get to the relay:

si_p1.jpg


3. You have to remove the whole stupid white plastic thing, just to get to the screws holding it to the stupid broken part:

si_p2.jpg


4. I had to break open the housing to get at the circuit board. This was not bending a spring tab or slicing through an adhesive. This was prying it until it broke forever, plus swearing.

Edit: apparently I missed a step in Lou's instructions--you can unplug the circuit housing from the solenoid housing. That way you wouldn't need to break it open like me!

si_p3.jpg


5. Maybe my soldering style is different, but I do not recommend cutting the relay's wire leads with a razor blade. It was a nightmare removing each pin and opening up each thru hole, whereas I could have plucked the whole assembly off the board with a heat gun and a solder iron. But your mileage may vary. Either way, you have to swap the relay without screwing up the PCB.

si_p4.jpg
 

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Your high res photos and documentation are much appreciated. My 2002 Escort left me stranded last night during a thunder storm because of this issue. Ford dealer said he would have to special order a replacement for $261.
 

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@steve60tuesday I joined this forum just to say thank you for all the work posting those pictures and an explanation of how to fix this issue. I have the same issue myself and will be testing that relay as soon as I wake up tomorrow. Very much appreciate your post.
 

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@steve60tuesday I joined this forum just to say thank you for all the work posting those pictures and an explanation of how to fix this issue. I have the same issue myself and will be testing that relay as soon as I wake up tomorrow. Very much appreciate your post.
Lol thanks, your message prompted me to reread the whole thread.

FYI it looks like a missed a step in Lou's original instructions. Apparently you can unplug the circuit board assembly from the solenoid housing. That way you wouldn't have to break open the housing, plus then you could solder it at your workbench.

I did all the work in my car, parked on the street, at night, in the rain and cold... so I was working in a hurry with a cordless soldering iron and foggy glasses.

Good luck!
 
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