Got a rough cut going. Cut reliefs for the cat and the N/S crossmember. Not sure if I want to keep the square corners yet. That traced line on the left would be for the round corners. Using some corner buckles I found at Lowes; only about $5 a piece and rated for 215lbs. These will let me adjust the angle later on. Also, going to use replace that burnt support piece, in the middle, with some metal. This is about where I want it. the ends still poke out a good inch, passed the tire, on both sides. It goes about 3-4 inches in front of the bumper. Also, going to add a plastic skirt. It will go from about mid bumper down to the splitter. So far the plastic has been the most expensive item ~$60. Here is its height from the ground. I removed the factory skirt that hangs under the radiator. I am going to use its mounting hardware and position as additional supports for the splitter. The other mounts will be in front of the tires. Where the metal body hangs down. This will make the overall mod less invasive. So far I should only need, at most, 6 holes drilled into the body.
It is not strictly for looks. It is similar to how a rear spoiler works. It will add down force to the front and should reduce drag; with the skirt I'm adding. So fuel economy/performance.
Did some more work to the splitter. Sealed, painted it, and fabbed up some mounts. Bit crooked, need to adjust it. So far have 5 mounts in place. The 3 brackets using factory hardware. Also, the 2 turnbuckles bolted to the core support. At the moment it has fully adjustable tilt. Though, I'm a bit concerned about the core support mounts. The core support is a little too flexible for me. with me pushing down on the splitter the core flexes. The nice bit is the force needed to flex the core is more than enough to compress the front struts about an inch. I can either reinforce the core or add more mounts to the splitter. Leaning toward adding more mounts. Problem is to counter the forces on the core, ill likely remove the ability to adjust tilt on the fly. With the cover off I noticed some small holes on each of the stock tow hooks. Im going to use those holes to further minimize chopping the car. As for the 2nd part of this mod. Im using 3mm ABS plastic. Ill be wrapping the bumper with it. I'll cut some holes for cooling maybe even add some ducting.
When you get there, it is fairly easy (although not inexpensive) to order the police package alternator parts and turn a 3G+ 13oA alt into a 200A alt. I built the 3G on my Mustang to 200A and installed an overdrive pulley. I have 0 charging system issues now.
Did your Mustang originally come with the smaller 75/95 alt? I pulled the stock alt of the Escort out. Being as it is also a 3G alt, the Stang alt has similar mounting tabs save for the threads. I attempted to fit it on the car, but the diameter is just too big to get it anywhere near where it need to be. The stock one is already a pain to replace. Have yet to fit the Stang alt since deleting the PS.
Yep. I had to clearance the mount for the 3G to fit on the Stang. It wasn't super bad and is a very common swap. I don't know much about how the accessories mount on a 3G 2.0L Escort, but on a 2G 1.9L the alternator is right up top and up front and is super easy to service. With a 1.9L bracket you may be able to clearance it enough to stuff the 3G case in there. If what I've read is correct you just need a 1.9L Pony bracket to carve up (since you're deleting A/C and PS) and you're ready to go. To my eye, at least on a 1.9L, there is a ton of room to fit it.
It is in the same spot. You definitely have to find the sweet spot to get the stock one in and out. I could not even get the 130amp to pass the PS reservoir. Added an additional set of brackets to the splitter. It is much more stable now, I can nearly put my entire weight onto it!! (170lbs) core support moves around 1/2 an inch. Mounting locations: Core support, stock chin spoiler mounts, and the tow hooks. Last things I need to do to the splitter are: add vibration resistant fasteners, trim some of the under hanging threads, and possibly add some heat insulation around the cat area. I also started work on the air dam. Im using 3mm ABS plastic sheets. They where about $10 on Amazon. I ordered 5. I pop riveted them together long ways to achieve the length required. I used 4 sheets for length and the 5th one as support material. Then I screwed them into the bumper cover. Im going to cut some holes in the middle for extra cooling. Maybe even design a cover, that is adjustable. Going to add some more screws. Although, it is a pain because I have to trim them once installed; so they will not hit the bumper. Being as everything is plastic I have to slowly cut the screws so they will not over heat and melt things. I need to finish trimming the sides to match the fender radius. Also, I need to secure the sides to the splitter, because they want to flare out at the bottom.
On the 1.9 you have to pull the reservoir to get it in and out and then there is plenty of room to work (well, I don't know that you "have" to do it that way, but that's the way I did it). I actually eye balled the 93 vs my Mustang yesterday and it seemed doable. You probably will have to whittle the mounting bracket down quite a bit but it seemed like it would fit.
Looking sort Nascar... What measures are you taking to prevent plywood warp and de-lamination? Interested in seeing the final product, how it affects MPG & how well it holds up over time...
Alright, thanks for the heads up. Do you happen to know what gauge wire you used on your Mustang? I sealed it with some polyurethane and then painted it. Ill let you know how it goes. haha
4/0... It's more than I needed, but I figured go big or go home and I didn't want to fool with it again (after having to correct Ford's mistake of 2 10awg runs as the factory wire).
Damn! but, that is for 200amps I can see the need..err..splurge. Those 10awgs are the ones that catch fire I hear? I currently have 2 awg, about 14ft worth, for my battery relocation. I've read 2 awg is good for upwards of 180 amps. Although, I'd have to add a few more feet to get to the alt. Doing some simple calculations the voltage drop with the 130amp would be around 0.5volt. Which is certainly reasonable. The only question is will the wire insulation melt. Guess we'll find out hahaha.
...and a potential to maybe grow from 200A too. You're close. The charge wires on the alternator are plugged in with a plastic connector (instead of a stud) and that connector can corrode/get loose and start a fire. 90s Ford electronics at their finest. Your case is a little different than mine. Since you relocated the battery your starter is getting full cranking amperage through that 2awg which is way more than 130A. If it hasn't melted by now, it's probably not going to.
Yeah, guess that is true. Doubt it'll even reach 130amps... 50% UDP basically cuts that in half. Should be around the stock output(75amps) with an alt ODP. The 2 gauge was fine under stock output. I appreciate the insight Might even tackle this next. I can see this now and agree. Not really what I was after but w/e. Guess, It is just the shape of the bumper projected downward and the big oval grill. Very much like 90's Nascar Fords. Finished the air dam/splitter last night; been driving it around today. It's nice, wind noise has gone down dramatically. I'm also under the impression that it wants to glide while coasting. I've only hit about 45mph. Even at that speed, I recall a distinct flutter from the passenger side wheels that now seems to be gone. I believe this flutter arises from the star fish wheels only having one cast. Anyone who cares to look at them, will notice how they have a less stream line shape going in the reverse direction. I made a pattern for some lower grill holes. Added some slots for a block. It would be nice if I could control the block from inside the car...Maybe i can design a cable system that will pull it up. Idk, in the mean time Im leaving it off. Got a pic with splitter off/air dam on. Cut off the excess bolt studs and added a layer of aluminum foil to the splitter with spray adhesive. I do not think it will actually prevent the splitter from getting hot; aside from reflecting radiant heat.. My thinking is it removes oxygen from the wood. Fire needs O2 and fuel. So, in case of the wood(fuel) getting hot enough to burn. I've, hopefully, removed the O2 from the equation. I saw some weather stripping at Lowe's so figured what the hell. I bay was getting nasty anyways because the hood no longer seals very well. got a new air filter too. wrapped the lights and hood. Everything bolted down and tight. Trimmed and secured on the sides. About 7pm last night: