Discussion in 'Photo Forum' started by ShakeZilla19, Jul 1, 2013.
Hmm i was thinking of using one from a dsm as well. Keep it side mount so it stays a sleeper.
Yes, my reasoning is along the same lines. I think this routing will help minimize pressure losses as well. Although I may need to cut a vent into the hood (for better cooling), that along with being directly in front of the rad fan, should keep it nice and cool.
Some fab work I did last week.
Bracket for a fuel pressure sender.
Wheel bearing removal
Slide hammer the hub off.
Working the inner race off.
My pressing "die."
Knock that shit out.
At this point.....
Finish with the slide hammer.
And this is the Glowshift filter sandwich I installed today.(For anyone interested it is the "3/4th - UNF 16" one) Oil sender is on it also.
Sorry for the long hiatus.
Did some work over the past couple of days
Installed a volt meter(not 100% finished)
Positive feed is from the cigar circuit. Negative is on a dash ground.
Hacked up me dash!
It appears to be crooked, might just be me. Its not 100% finished though more of a mock up.
Installed a strut bar
Dip stick is in the trunk XD. Plugged the dipstick tub with some plastic plug that I saved will working on an A/C system a few years ago. The plug seems to be made for the dip stick tube.
This is both for saving heat(it's cold as hell atm) and to eliminate some road noise and in cab rattles. I posted the insulation elsewhere but it is from Home Depot and called "Frost King Duct insulation"
Bare rear door.
I put a single layer on the outer skin for heat saving.
Rattle proofed the interior handle. The black piece was not very snug before.
I also JB welded all of those rattle'tastic white/black holding clips.
Front door rattle proofing. The little cutout with all the window buttons seems it was designed to rattle. I made sure it doesn't ever rattle again! Also, the wire connector just screamed rattle, I silenced it accordingly.
Front driver door rattle proofing.
I completely forgot to take pics of the front door, although it is that same idea as the back. I also didn't show the patches of insulation I put on the inner door frame. I put the patches in the center of large vibrating areas to reduce noise. I still have one more door to finish ill get some pics while I button it up.
That does it for the update enjoy the pics !!
Volts guage is always good to have in my opinion. Looks great.
How do u like the strut bar? Stiffened the front up much?
Yeah, I'm planning on modding in a 130 amp alternator from a stang, need to do some monitoring before hand.
The bar helps a little, but no where near as much as installing new ball joints did.
I replaced the factory push fasteners, with ones that screw in and are much beefier. I only had these two, originals, left a testament to how well they fasten. They couldn't even hold themselves.... let alone two parts. The new ones are 69 cents for two.
I did have to drill the holes out just a bit. The fastening end expands quite a lot, allowing them to actually grip.
Finished front door.
Added some insulation to the hood.
I like that slide-hammer proc for the bearings, no bearing puller kit needed. My LH front is beginning to bug out, time to swap all four (yet another project).
Is the adhesive for the underhood insulation going to be okay with underhood temps (esp when insulated)? Hate to see a sheet of that foil stuff derail a timing belt...
It is a bunch of work to do the bearings without a press, although it can be quite fun knocking them out. There is a very sweet ring, on the last blow, when they finally pop out. I got the idea from some Miata guys. The rear hubs, on the Miata, use the same bearing cartridges. Also, the Miata front hubs are the same as the Escort rear hubs.
If I'm not mistaken, the stuff is rated for 250*F. I had aluminum foil duct taped up there last year. The tape held through -10*F weather and didn't fall off. Since this insulation is fully adhesive on the back I'm confident it will hold. Any other state I wouldn't care, but after a 15 min. city drive the temp gauge only hits 1/4 of the range. Only other thing I can think of doing is installing an engine diaper or something.
Where did you get the new fasteners?
I love the cross-DNA with Mazdas in this BG chassis. Best thing about the 2/3gen Escorts, easily...
Or, you can block the rad partially, like rigs do in the winter. Velcro on cool surfaces, thick tarp material as the block. When it warms up, pull it off.
You can get them at Lowes in the fastener section. They fit in the factory sized hole, but you need to drill the hole out just a hair for them to open.
The BG chassis rocks!
Unfortunately, I already have the radiator partially blocked. I have an 8" wide piece of cardboard blocking the side directly in front of the manifold. It stays at(or drops) to 1/4 temp IF the use the heater. I may need to block the fan a bit.
So, this is the factory passenger side motor mount. It is still in great shape, no rips or tears and only a small amount of dry rot. Filling was pretty straight forward, clean, fill partially, let it set, then fill completely. I read into some other procedures from the web (BTW, thank you Kanak for your detailed walk through). Some others have mentioned "if the layers are allowed to fully cure between placement of the next layer, the top layers can fall out." I like the idea of a layering approach so the inner layers can fully cure, so I modified the approach a little so the top layers still had grip.
After cleaning (soap water and a brush)
I laid down the first layer using a tooth pick to 'churn' the poly into all the little spaces and remove air bubbles. (I found a push&pull churning motion to work the best.) I then let is sit(in air) for around 6 hours. When I came back the poly was still pliable like I had just applied it....I grabbed a bucket and dropped it in some water. Within the hour it was MUCH thicker. This is when I decided to add the next layer while the first layer was still pliable.
I added the second(final) layer. Using a toothpick I made sure to penetrate the first layer with some of the fresh poly. Nothing excessive just a few pokes into the first layer. I then used the same push&pull motion to remove bubbles and spread the poly. I did not have a scrapper or anything so I made it as even as possible with a toothpick. Finally, I set it in some water. After 12 hours, in water, the final layer was fully set and not malleable. I cleaned the rust and proceeded to re-install the mount.
Installed, I must say even though the poly is still a bit rubbery, it made the mount SOLID. When I released the jack the engine barely moved XD.
The next mount, front trans mount. Rad fan removed.
This one looks much more abused, keep in mind all of my mounts are 15 year old factory originals. The dry rot is much deeper and the other side.....
...is starting to tear from the bottom. I have yet to clean this mount and will begin here in a few.
I wonder if an 4EAT front mount might be the ticket vs. filling -- the manual version has the void under the center bolt collar, while the auto version is solid rubber. but still has a bit of wiggle room up top? I wonder if it bolts into the N-S x-member for a manual car...
How hard was headliner replacement? I took my sagging one out and have had a bare top since March.
Edit(Gamer92): Thanks. Pulling the board out is the hardest part. All the trim needs to be removed. Then, you have to lean the seats back and work it out the front passenger side door. That brittle foam stuff gets everywhere in the process.
@kanak: Yeah I saw that. Maybe the ATX is rougher? Or just an updated mount design? It does bolt into the N-S cross member.
This mount took much longer to set up fully probably because it needed much more poly to fill.
Cleaned it up.
It is pretty solid now.
New battery location. I still need to bolt the tray down.
Firewall location of the wire hole. While under the dash I noticed my clutch master is leaking. You can see the puddle/drip to the left.
Bay side, big blue is the positive cable. The green and purple wires are for the fuel pressure and oil pressure sending units.
New ground location.
Cleaned up all the details on the battery relocation.
I did have to choose a new spot for the battery, there is some kind of evap/fuel box directly under my first location. Did not want to remove it to check clearances because the large hoses looked hard and brittle.
Needed to use a block of wood to lift the tray. Also, I cut the carpet to allow access to the spare, without having to remove the battery and tray.
This is where I put that crazy ground strap.
I HAVE SPACE FOR TURBO PARTS NOW!!!
Voltage drop is only 0.2 volts, fine by me. Still have a good 6' of 2 awg wire, probably going to whip up a grounding kit.
Where did you get those fasteners at? Can I source them down here? Nevermind, i should've kept reading before i posted
Man you're really giving that thing a going over. Can't wait to see the finished product. I like the flat blacked rear reflector, and I'm waiting to see how you do the foglights. I got a switch and a set of fogs out of a Tracer in the states a while back (never sold them in Canada).
They are so much better than the stock ones. lol
Thank you, idk if you saw my other posts but I was recently involved in an accident. The Escort is totaled and until I get a settlement everything is on hold. The damage is actually pretty minor, so I do not plan on scrapping it. I am going to use this opportunity to try out a rattle can paint job, I will begin once the weather finally warms up.
I'm not sure if the reverse light fogs will work, their reflectors kinda throw light all over the place. I may need to open them up and smooth out the reflector. I would just go with the tracer fogs if I had some.
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