Escort Rear Drum Brake How-to I never saw a disclaimer on the website so I'll put this one in my post. Trencher (Brian Collins), does not now, nor will in the future, be held liable or responsible for the information contained within any or all of his Technical Advice. Nor the use or misuse to which individuals intend to apply said information. Any and all individuals that undertake the projects, plans or ideas that are offered, do so of their own free will and accept responsibility for their own actions, abilities and inability's. It should be stressed that any and all of FEOA.net and or individuals that are listed or implied within Trencher's (Brian Collins) Technical Advice are held blameless and assume no liabilities for the understanding or misunderstanding of information relating to themselves or any third parties associated with them. In laymen's terms; this is free advice, that you can either view or disregard. A reasonable effort has been, and will be, put forth to offer information in a clear manner. I will try to explain how to replace the brakes on a second Gen Escort. I have never posted a howto before so this is my first. Also keep in mind that I'm a redneck, and if I can't spell a word I will spell it phonetically. I don't want to get attacked by the spelling nazi's (high). Here's the basic tools you will need. Vise style needle nose pliers, Dead blow hammer, #3 Philips screwdriver, #2 regular screwdriver, wrench for the #3, and I believe it's a 8mm bolt (2 if you have them handy). You will probably need a can of penetrating oil. A little anti-seize is also helpful for brake work later on down the road. (as per high's idea) Note: I won't go into the intricacies of how to remove the wheels. If you can't do that, then don't jack with the brakes. Having some mechanical ability is a must to do this job. Imagine what it would be like to get crushed inside a beer can. I highly recommend using jack stands. Although you'll never be under the car it would suck to have to replace the backing plates. Shoot some penetrating oil in the threaded holes for later. Next your going to want to set the ebrake and grab that #3 Phillips screwdriver and wrench. It shouldn't take much to get these screws loose. If you do run into problems purchase a impact driver. This will save you allot of problems rather than stripping the head of the screw. Removing the drum. You can do this one of 2 ways. Remember to release the ebrake. You can use the bolt in the threaded holes and press it off side to side. Meaning couple of turns on one side then move to other side. Or you can take the dead blow hammer and strike it twice real hard and take it off by hand (My personal favorite). If you have a poor memory then this is where a Polaroid will come in handy or a digital camera. Undoubtedly you will be doing both side so only do one at a time and you'll have a reverse reference. Note: This is where I got real uncomfortable. This is the same brake setup that is on the Kawasaki Mule 2500/3000. This does not inspire much confidence in the brake system of the car. Start removing springs and laying them out in the same orientation that you are removing them. Use the needle nose from the tool list. Next remove the retainer pins. This is where the flat screwdriver comes in. Remove the brake shoes, laying them out in the same way you laid out the springs. Now that you have everything removed you can start going backwards. Note: The reason you don't see any brake dust, and puddles of $#!+ on the ground is because I used compressed air to blow the dust out. Now it's all over my wife's truck. Put all the springs back on. Pretty easy just use the pliers. You see this little cam mechanism. You need to adjust this. It needs to look like this. You'll need that flat screwdriver again for this. You also may want to release the bleeder valve so the shoes suck back in. Take the anti-seize and put a thin coat around the center of the hub. Do the same thing on the center of the drum. You can also put it in the threaded holes to protect the threads. In this case my wheels don't cover the holes so it will be gone in a couple of days. You can also put a dab on the screws to make the job easier later on down the road. Set the ebrake again and tighten the screws. You'll need to bleed the brakes. Then put your wheels back on and that's it your done. You might want to rachet the ebrake a couple of times to get the brake cams to adjust up before you bleed the brakes. I hope this how-to is helpfull to you, and goodluck.