Runs cold ...no heat | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)

Runs cold ...no heat

Discussion in '2nd Gen 1991-1996 1.9L SOHC' started by Interceptor429, Dec 16, 2019.

  1. Interceptor429

    Interceptor429 FEOA Member

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    Have a 91 escort wagon 1.9 auto ..it sits at idle warms up normal start driving it gets cold always down to the C and heaters not heating up in car checked coolent
    all great ,and no leaks also at idle it has some warmth from.vent but never enough to warm car ..any thoughts where to look I've searched the search tab and nothing on OVER COOLING .help it's cold outside.
  2. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    An engine that cools off a lot when you start driving could indicate the thermostat is stuck open.
    The lack of warmth from the heater could be a 'blend' door that is stuck in the cold position. Its angle is controlled by a bowden cable, whose wire might have come unhooked from the while plastic control plate; visible under the dash on the passenger's side. We had to drive in 20f temps without heat, due to a puddle of frozen water that was preventing the heater blower from working. Drilling a small hole in the bottom of the heater blower housing solved that problem; but in the rare heavy rains we got occasional rain water onto the carpet instead. It could also be a blockage of built up crud inside the heater core; but a much harder one to solve.
    If the percentage of antifreeze is low, it can result in the formation of a thick sludge of ice crystals (like a slurpee) in the radiator. This can cause the engine to run warm enough, but not enough flow through the 'unheated' parts of the cooling system; which includes the radiator and the heater core and its supply hoses.
    In the 70's Volvos came with a piece of cardboard, the right size to slide down between the radiator and the a.c. condenser. It had 3 different sized circles printed on it. This was to let you know how/where to cut out the circles, and lessen the cooling in Swedish sub-zero weather. The circles were centered in front of the cooling fan. If the circle was off to the side too far, the uneven effect on the draw of the radiator fan could cause the blades to vibrate and fatique till they broke.
    zzyzzx and FordMan59 like this.
  3. marclar

    marclar Moderator Staff Member

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    moved to 2nd gen 1.9 subforum.

    this symptom fits with a stuck open thermostat and thermostat housing.

    although, i have used the 'cardboard' method myself many times. using it to block off portions of the radiator to block cooling action.
  4. FordMan59

    FordMan59 FEOA Member

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    First thing that comes to mind is a thermostat that's stuck open.
  5. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Get one of these:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
  6. marclar

    marclar Moderator Staff Member

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    replace the housing as well.
  7. Interceptor429

    Interceptor429 FEOA Member

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    Thanks I'll change it out any thing to watch for? I just bought this on the cheap only 72,000 miles out 89 year old guy had it ..said he's too old to drive after he busted the bumper cover ...lol $600 new struts wires and plugs also perfect seats ..I'll post pics tomorrow I hope
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  8. Interceptor429

    Interceptor429 FEOA Member

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    Thanks
  9. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    It's normal to break at least one of the bolts that hold on the thermostat housing. Especially the easiest to get to one.

    Yes I went to a junkyard and tested this out.
  10. marclar

    marclar Moderator Staff Member

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    the housing has a wax pellet bypass built into it as a fail-safe for a failed thermostat. once the bypass is activated, the housing is scrap, it can not be un melted.
    this is a common oversight on 'under heating' concerns.
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  11. Interceptor429

    Interceptor429 FEOA Member

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    Thanks guys ...
  12. Interceptor429

    Interceptor429 FEOA Member

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    Ok will do been reading a lot here will the housing from a 3rd gen 2.0L with sensors work on it.
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  13. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    That's why you shake it while you have it out. If it rattles, it's good. I would not buy another one intended for a 1991-1996 Escort. Get one for a 1997. The newer housing after that, the sensors do not screw in, so the dash gauge sensor has two wires, which means that you will have to add a ground wire.
  14. marclar

    marclar Moderator Staff Member

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    true.. but, they are cheap and totally worth replacing while it is already torn apart IMO.

    the housings are different, but will work.. the heater core outlet portion goes off at an angle, you may need to lengthen your heater hose. the sensors are different after 97..

    i would highly recommend against using a USED part in this application.
  15. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    you may need to lengthen your heater hose.

    I thought that one simply used the heater hose intended for a 1997..

    Somebody really needs to do a How To on this.
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  16. marclar

    marclar Moderator Staff Member

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    see... genius.. thx man
  17. Interceptor429

    Interceptor429 FEOA Member

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    I will buy a new one just trying to figure out which one I need to get ...so any input to which one I'm all ears and learning as I go thanks to you all in advance
  18. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3254079&cc=1119361&jsn=485
    Then reuse your existing sensors in it. This might come with a thermostat housing gasket. If it doesn't you'll need one of those as well.
    Then you will need a hose to go from the heater core to this piece, which I think is a 3/4 on the thermostat end and 5/8 on the heater core end. I am still working on the part number on that one.
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  19. Interceptor429

    Interceptor429 FEOA Member

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