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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

Beaverboy said:

There's a lip of metal on the inside of the fender that points back towards the tire.
Rolling is bending that lip back up on the inside so that it faces up. This gives you a few more mm of clearance.
Some body shops actually have a device which bolts onto your hub, has a long handle coming off of the plate on the hub,
and a high density roller wheel (like you'd find on a palette mover) that sticks up from the handle.
My rolling it across that lip and applying pressure downward, it bends the lip very neatly, little my little so
that very little paint gets cracked in the process. My 2x4 and hammer method are a bit less subtle, but they get the job done.
I already had plans to work on the rear wheel-wells this summer, so some sanding/painting/undercoating
are due for the lips (which now have cracked paint. The important thing is,
everything looks fine on the outside and the tires fit inside.
I have the following questions:

1. Can the hammer method create some bends/dents on the outside?
2. Do I have to bend the lip 90 degrees or less to guarantee the
required clearance?

3. Should I make few cuts on the whole length of the
lip to make it easier to bend the lip?
4. Do you bend the whole lip around the tire or maybe
its upper part only?

I would appreciate any suggestions from anyone who did it successfully.

Thank you,


24 Posts
unless you have like 18's or something u dont need to role the fender...i had a 2" drop, and 205 on stock rim and it was fine..heck had 215 40 R17 and it was still fine...but to answer ur ?, i am not 100% sure how well the hammer and board method work...however, on my brother's civic when we put larger wheels on his, we lowered the car to the preferd height, and lifted a wheel put the fat end of a bat, and slowly moved the car back and forth in the driveway rolling the bat and taking care of the fender....kinda long process cause u have to do it several times, but it worked fine, and no paint chiped or dents....my .02$
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