Replace bottom end bearings while doing oil pan gasket? | Page 2 | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)
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Replace bottom end bearings while doing oil pan gasket?

Discussion in '2nd Gen 1991-1996 1.9L SOHC' started by Itchigo, Dec 10, 2017.

  1. Joey_Twowagons

    Joey_Twowagons FEOA Member

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    Back to bottom end bearings, I checked Rockauto the other day who had the rod bearings for less than $2 a pair.

    I have bought a full set so next time I have the oil pan off I'll swap them out.
  2. Joey_Twowagons

    Joey_Twowagons FEOA Member

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    I have not tried the E3 spark plugs, I use plain type (no precious metals) without issues.
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  3. Itchigo

    Itchigo FEOA Member

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    I've had the car back for a week now and it feels like a new car. Not that it wasn't in great shape before, it just feels really tight. I probably just miss it. :)

    I have good heat now, my mechanic said the bolts wanted to break but he got them out using electrical current to heat them up, then when they cool they leave a bit of a cavity. I haven't heard of this before, but it obviously worked. They decided it would be less work to coax them out rather than drill then out. Same deal with the trans mounts, he had to run current through them to get them out.

    For some reason the radiator cap is leaking/wet on the underside edge. I'm not losing much coolant, a few ounces in a week. I even tried a second cap and still have it (both caps were new). I tried crimping the first one as it felt loose- no dice. I'll look at it further this weekend. (Radiator is new)

    I have the E3 spark plugs in there. No difference at idle. May have slightly more at the stoplight, but it's hard to tell. The motor felt strong before and Escorts are not tire melters. That being said I can break loose the tires pretty easily. When I first got this car it pulled very strong, all the way to the governed speed. Lately (before this) it felt like it was losing it's pep a bit. The old plugs had 16k on them and were in consistent shape. So if there's an improvement I'd say 10%. But 10% in a 100 HP motor...

    The oil pan was clean, no sludge or anything. My mechanic checked when the pan was pulled and said it was like a new motor. I just turned 101k. Good news there.

    Attached Files:

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  4. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    Glad to hear it. You may be one of the rare members here who has a mechanic do substantial amounts of work on your Escort. I dont think I could afford that, especially as I have multiple Escorts. However, congrats to you and to your mechanic!
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  5. Itchigo

    Itchigo FEOA Member

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    I wouldn't say that...

    I do most things myself, but I live in a condo. So stuff like changing a radiator, which makes a mess I farm out. Anything nuts and bolts I do. But, in this case we got some money from my wife's elderly aunt, who she's been taking care of. Rather than parcel things out I decided to get everything done on my list at once (almost). Also I know how the thermostat and oil pan bolts break easily. I'd much rather they break in a shop equipped for that.

    But I do trust this guy and I use him to do the work I won't/can't do. I've been using him for years. He also lets me bring my own parts. So I can shop Rockauto and just pay him labor.
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  6. Itchigo

    Itchigo FEOA Member

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    Further update....:

    The edge of the radiator cap is wet. I think it's from over pressuring. I have tried new 2 caps. I even crimped the edge of the cap for a tighter seal thinking it wasn't sealing.

    Then I noticed the thermostat housing was leaking, so I brought it back to the shop. They replaced the housing, saying it was warped (I don't agree as that wasn't leaking before), but as the part was already ordered I let it go. Drove it to work the next day and after 10 minutes I noticed on the gauge that the engine had not warmed up, but I had heat. I immediately pulled over thinking I was out of coolant, but the hose was warm, and I had heat (would not have heat being low/out on coolant). I drove it carefully to work and did not have any engine noise associated with overheating. It seems to take 15 minutes for the gauge to get to "normal". It seems to drive normally with good heat, but I'm concerned I have a large air bubble somewhere, the coolant is not flowing, and I'm boiling the engine.

    The engine is stronger than the last one. Just for grins I raced it against our 1999 Buick with a 3800 V-6. It came up even?! When we got where we were going I told my wife "that was fun, but there's no way you were flooring it." She said "I was and I'm really disappointed." I got rubber for a good 30 feet. :D

    My mechanic said they had pressure tested the radiator and everything was good. I'm going back there today.
  7. 04Svt

    04Svt FEOA Member

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    Taking 15 min to warm up is bad. Not sure if the escorts will throw a code for it but newer cars will. I had a charger that did that and it ended up being the coolant bottle. It was not holding the pressure . As soon as i got a new bottle it was fine and warmed up within like 5 min. I know escorts dont have the coolant bottle but it could be a stuck thermostat causing the issue.
    Also taking too long to warm up the ecu sends more fuel to the engine resulting in lower mpg and could possibly damage your catalytic converter over time.
  8. Itchigo

    Itchigo FEOA Member

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    Normally I'd say it was the gauge. But not right after bringing it home from having the thermostat changed. And they do have a coolant reservoir, but I don't see how it relates. This was all good prior to changing the thermostat, so the easiest thing to pursue is the changing of the thermostat. I think it's getting to temp, as I have heat.

    My mechanic says they draw a vacuum to fill the system. But he'll look at it again for me later today.
  9. 04Svt

    04Svt FEOA Member

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    The coolant bottle on the escort is a overflow. Its different than the newer cars . Newer cars they hold pressure. Our escorts overflow draw coolant in and out of there as needed.
  10. 04Svt

    04Svt FEOA Member

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    I thought the housing was just changed? Was the thermostat also changed? If the hoses were hot it could be the sending unit shorting out. Since the housing was replaced they had to either reuse the sending unit from the old one or replace with new. If your mechanic used any Teflon tape on them they wont get a good ground and could cause the gauge to not work properly.
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  11. Itchigo

    Itchigo FEOA Member

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    The thermostat was changed, then the housing leaked and they said the housing was warped and changed it as well.

    Update: I was just at the mechanics and we couldn't find anything wrong. Pressure is good. The radiator cap "seeps" a little. My mechanic is chalking that up to a bad surface on the new radiator (I bought it online). It's only enough to let a few drops by, and when the radiator is an inch or 2 low, it doesn't seep at all. I haven't put more than a coffee cup in it so far. Maybe it's just "seeking it's own level". I've had semi's do that before.


    You may be right. It seems that if the heat is on the gauge won't get to normal for like 20 min. However, if I turn the heat off (to cold), the gauge goes right up to temp. I verified this by driving the car with the heat off- right up to temp. Turn the heat on and watch the gauge plummet. Turn it off and it goes back up. I would have believed this if it was like 10 degrees out, but it's almost 50.
  12. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    The symptoms described above I would associate with very low flow through the coolant circuit that comes out of the thermostat housing, past the sensors for engine temp and the temp gauge reading, and through the heater core.

    Saturns and some Chevy Cavaliers used coolant bottles that were pressurized, so were part of the cooling system. I know this because I have replaced them when they began to leak.

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