[juggalo]

ok, i know i posted this in the 1.9 section but i decided to start a new thread of the subject here for u turbo guru's. basically if the 1.9 can handle 8 psi before pinging becomes a problem with the stock ignition set at 10 degrees with the OAP connected. if removing the plug retard the timing by 3 degrees, how much more boost would it be able to handle?

 

[wagonbeater]

where did you guys end up finding this thing at?
So i would assume the cars going to run a little bit sluggish/rough/erratic off the coller untill boost. while im sure theres not set way to know how much further 3degress retard would get a person untill it was tried on these cars.

 

[juggalo]

i found it. it's a little grey cap on the wiring harness by the ecu. i have drivin with it disconnected and there was a slight power loss but not rediculously sluggish. it did cause erratic idle but that's common when it runs rich with the 92 ecu that has a weaker fuel map. i'm not using that ecu.

 

[wagonbeater]

well, what if that plug was hooked into a TPS switch like a nitrous switch? since you are only in boost a small amount of time. and it will retard when you need to and run fine when not.
the BIG picture is.....is it worth it. will it really help alot?

 

[juggalo]

that switch will not connect to the TPS. the actane adjustment plug has 2 wires and the TPS has 3. i'm tryin to find out how high the boost can go before it starts to ping with it disconnected. it could be worth it but it would set off the CEL.

 

[wagonbeater]

that switch will not connect to the TPS. the actane adjustment plug has 2 wires and the TPS has 3. i'm tryin to find out how high the boost can go before it starts to ping with it disconnected. it could be worth it but it would set off the CEL.

you missed what i was trying to say. the car runs like poo with out that plug in place. so, get a TPS switch hooked to the TPS. its job will be to open and close the "octane switch" so it can run fine out of boost.

 

[juggalo]

oh ok. do u know where i can find one?

 

[vtec-this]

jusr get a hobbs pressure switch, same thing thats used on basic methenol injection kits. just turn the knob until the activation point is at the desired boost pressure.

 

[juggalo]

that switch will not connect to the TPS. the actane adjustment plug has 2 wires and the TPS has 3. i'm tryin to find out how high the boost can go before it starts to ping with it disconnected. it could be worth it but it would set off the CEL.

you missed what i was trying to say. the car runs like poo with out that plug in place. so, get a TPS switch hooked to the TPS. its job will be to open and close the "octane switch" so it can run fine out of boost.

that doesn't sound right to me. i run an automatic and doing any adjustments to the TPS will change the shift points. not a good idea IMO.

 

[juggalo]

jusr get a hobbs pressure switch, same thing thats used on basic methenol injection kits. just turn the knob until the activation point is at the desired boost pressure.

will it hook up to the octane plug connector and allow me to make adjustments from there?

 

[wagonbeater]

that switch will not connect to the TPS. the actane adjustment plug has 2 wires and the TPS has 3. i'm tryin to find out how high the boost can go before it starts to ping with it disconnected. it could be worth it but it would set off the CEL.

you missed what i was trying to say. the car runs like poo with out that plug in place. so, get a TPS switch hooked to the TPS. its job will be to open and close the "octane switch" so it can run fine out of boost.

that doesn't sound right to me. i run an automatic and doing any adjustments to the TPS will change the shift points. not a good idea IMO.

okay. lets try this again. the TPS activated switch just looks at the signal coming from the cars TPS switch. so there is no change to anything, your shift points of other wise. which would then be used to signal to open or close the "octane circuit"
a pressure switch should work as well. just need to figure out how to convert the power to give the computer the correct signal. which would just be mimicking a open or close circuit if i read correctly.

 

[vtec-this]

a hobbs pressure switch has 3 wires (+in+out and-)and an adjustment knob. When the boost pressure reaches the point you set with the knob it will send voltage through its output line. you need to wire it up so that when you hit X boost pressure it activates a second circuit that retards the timing on the fly via the octane switch you are talking about. ive never seen or looked into this octane switch on a lx, but if its just on/off then the second circuit turns it off when it receives a signal from the hobbs device.

 

[juggalo]

oh gotchya. is there a link to where i can get this?

 

[MTN_RCR]

Why dont you just get the ecu reflashed instead of spending all of your time trying to find ways around everything like using ecu's from different years because im pretty sure you have no idea what the fuel or ignition maps look like on any of those ecu's much less what difference there are :?

 

[vtec-this]

first thing you want is a wb02

a hobbs swich is not expensive

 

[juggalo]

Why dont you just get the ecu reflashed instead of spending all of your time trying to find ways around everything like using ecu's from different years because im pretty sure you have no idea what the fuel or ignition maps look like on any of those ecu's much less what difference there are :?

because i ain't made of money lol. plus i already know the 94+ ecu's have a better fuel map than the 91+ ecu's. that was only for my surge problem after the MAF swap.

 

[juggalo]

how about using this? it's not as expenssive as using the MSD timing master which would run around $300-$400.

http://www.fixthisride.com/showproductd ... _id=108676