Removal of rear seat in 91' LX wagon | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)

Removal of rear seat in 91' LX wagon

Discussion in 'Interior Modifications' started by themightyquinn, Dec 23, 2005.

  1. themightyquinn

    themightyquinn Guest

    Messages:
    668
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    hi all

    Im doing a complete reinstallation of my audio system, and Im doing it right this time - no gerry-rigging.

    I took out everything in the trunk, and I cant figure out how the rear seat comes out. (just the part you sit on, I took the backs out already)

    Any help appreciated!

    -Quinn
  2. 4doorscort

    4doorscort New Member

    Messages:
    8,129
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Brampton ON
    You should lay down some sound deadener while you got it all ripped apart...
  3. themightyquinn

    themightyquinn Guest

    Messages:
    668
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    yup, im planning to

    any word on the seat removal?
  4. me19875

    me19875 New Member

    Messages:
    2,679
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Vancouver, Washington
    and as far as soundproofing goes, i'm installing a nice new system and i'm going to use roofing underlayment. i've researched it and it's really similar to dynamat minus the metal. All i've done so far is the inside of the doors cause im getting speakers now and a sub later.

    Sure dynamat might work slightly better but it also costs about 8X more. it cost me $35 for 100 square feet of this stuff at lowes. It was really cold out when i installed it so i had to set each strip on top of a space heater before applying it. But it sticks really well if you do. even though the backside is granualated and it doesn't seem like it would stick to itself very well, if you heat it up it sticks great. I'm pretty sure that i'll have more than enough to cover my car with a double thickness everywhere. It's asphault based like original dynamat but the smell really isn't strong at all.

    good luck
  5. themightyquinn

    themightyquinn Guest

    Messages:
    668
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    great idea man, ill look into that, since dynamat is so expensive

    seats?
  6. jd_91pony

    jd_91pony FEOA Member

    Messages:
    512
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    166
    Location:
    Belfair, WA
    there are some little white clips under the seat that need to be pushed on.
    Pins on the seat insert into the clips. Clips are attached to the floorboard of the car. They are located between your legs if you were sitting on the seat. Haynes manual show this. They are not the easiest to get out. the clips may be buggered up. Try using a large screw driver to push the clip while lifting the seat.
  7. themightyquinn

    themightyquinn Guest

    Messages:
    668
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
  8. me19875

    me19875 New Member

    Messages:
    2,679
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Vancouver, Washington
    don't get that cheap crap i recommended earlier. sorry :(
  9. billzie

    billzie FEOA Member

    Messages:
    2,245
    Likes Received:
    8
    Trophy Points:
    288
    Location:
    Athens, OH; finally moved.
    I totally recommend the roofing underlayment, but you've got to find the rubberized kind without the granulated crap on it. I have only been able to find it at Menards' home center and I think they're only in the midwest. I get mine when I visit Chicago. It is about $35 per 100sq/ft roll. It definitely has to be installed in warm weather. My buddy's Cherokee was done on a mid 80s day and it has held up great over the two years. I started a door last fall but it was only 50 and the temp dropped that night, it didn't hold perfect, but it held. I just removed it yesterday and I'm surprised it was still really stuck in a lot of places, but I need the warm weather to keep it stuck to the contoured areas.
    HTH, Bill.
  10. me19875

    me19875 New Member

    Messages:
    2,679
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Vancouver, Washington
    yea, i know it would work better if it wasn't granualated but did you also look at that this site http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ I really like his meathod of conducting the test. It's really hard to argue with anything he says in there, it just makes too much sense.

    after reading it you pretty much come away with the only 2 products worth using are the raamatt, and the second skin damplifier, with the raamatt costing less, which is what i'm going to use when i completely do my car later.

    but hey, me buying that granualated roofing stuff really isn't a complete waste. i only used like 1/20th of it so far (just the doors), and my dad is eventually going to re-do our whole roof in a couple of years :lol:

    o and by the way, there is no mernards within 1,000 miles of where i live.
  11. billzie

    billzie FEOA Member

    Messages:
    2,245
    Likes Received:
    8
    Trophy Points:
    288
    Location:
    Athens, OH; finally moved.
    That's a nice read. I was disappointed that he didn't test the home products along with the others. I think that if he did, it would find that the granulated home products test as good as some of the lower end products and the non-granulated composite product that I recommend would definitely test right up there with the higher end products. I believe this to be true based on my real world experience with this product and some of the others in the test. I have sent a message to him and hopefully he will conduct similar tests on the home products.
    I am sure that Menards is not the only home center chain to carry this product. They are just the only home center chain in my area that I've found that carries it.
    This product is less than 1/5 the cost of the Raamatt. It is slightly less thick, but it can be layered easily.
    Link to data: http://www.nei-act.com/literature/AC.Po ... rature.pdf
    Link to locations, these are the national direct distribution of the product, not every store will carry it (like in my part of the country):
    http://www.nei-act.com/products.htm#

    I hope to have my own write up about the product when I finish the interior of my wagon, won't be until it warms up this spring at the earliest. I think anyone would be foolish to install any of these products until they have warm weahter, not just heated materials and heat gun.

    HTH, Bill.
  12. me19875

    me19875 New Member

    Messages:
    2,679
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Vancouver, Washington
    well, aside from the sticking issue with the granualated stuff, (all the layered parts fell off b/c the granualated surface is very difficult to stick to) as i was applying it i noticed that it was kindof stiff even when i warmed it to the point where if i was applying it on a weird shape, it wouldn't work very well on non-flat surfaces, not pliable enough. but thats just the granualated stuff.

    i e-mailed the ac-poly people to see who carries their product around me. I would think that if it were tested it would land right around the original dynamat area. i'm assuming this because on that pdf, it says that the adhesive is a modified asphalt layer, which is probably just SBR. and SBR is just asphalt with latex in it.

    although i'm still considering using it, because if it works like the original dynamat does, then its probably worth the money. I might also just use it on the parts of the car that are for the most part parallel to the ground, like the floor and trunk area. and then i'd use the raamatt on perpindicular stuff like the doors and side pieces of the car.

    is the non-granualated stuff very pliable? cause the stuff i used was just darn stiff.
  13. Escort671

    Escort671 FEOA Member

    Messages:
    2,201
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    286
    Location:
    San Antonio
    I have this stuff in a can....its pretty hardcore.... its spraying a thin layer of rubber on underneath your stuff...bad thing....it expands....so my carpet and stuff is squishy but not for long...I should have a redone interior soon
  14. dave m

    dave m New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
  15. dave m

    dave m New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    i have a 1995 ford escort wagon 1 ,9 liter..i just pull my back seat out. the part you sit on. i dont know if its the same kind as your escort but theres like 2 lates id call them on each side just below the seat part about a foot from the end on each side. i had to just push in the pin like. which was like white color about 1 inch long and thin maybe half. you might have to use a screw driver and position yourself wgere you can push the pin in and up up the end your working on first at one end and do the same on the other. youll see and feel when the seat is loose. from there all you have to do is pull the seat out.. i kind sat on the seat pushed in the pin and pulled up on the seat end i was getting loose first. i rased my butt a little..you might not have to yourself but im not that strong or the position i usedcwas easier for me to raise the seat.. remember mine is a 1995 ford escort. i found how to remove the seat from my haynes auto repair booklet..hope this helps

Share This Page