rebuilding rear linkages | Page 2 | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)

rebuilding rear linkages

Discussion in 'Tech & Repair' started by axa, Jan 8, 2014.

  1. axa

    axa FEOA Member

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    Way of topic but what was wrong with my Google drive images?
    If images aren't hosted here, either way there is no guarantee...

    Back on topic, im going to change my clothes and go try work off that bolt...
    I started hitting it with PB blaster...
  2. axa

    axa FEOA Member

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    HOE LEE SHITE Im usually the one to bang the shit out of my old ladies rear, but this escort rear is beating the shit out of me...
    i bet there's not a person alive that has gotten an 18 year old rear drum knuckle lateral link bolt out.

    I slammed the knuckle it with heat on the two holding points, and lots of it. Put it under the press and nothing.
    So I just left it there under pressure, and ill keep hitting it with penatrant for the foreseeable future, hopefully ill go down and find the thing has exploded into its pieces.

    Thing is the knuckle is such an odd shape that its extremely hard to rig on the press, so im no way able to apply its full wrath...

    That said this thing as bad freakin news as we have all heard.
    Hit yours with a good penetrant every time you get the chance. then still pray something else goes first.

    Im just not ready to drill it out yet...
  3. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    Repeatedly get the nut cherry red then quench (aiming for threads) with PB-Blaster ?

    Is there an exposed section that you can get a blade (hacksaw or cutting wheel) on ?
  4. axa

    axa FEOA Member

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    i should explain more. the nut came off fine.
    its just that it is caught likely in the spindle/knuckle body so thats much more a challenge to heat than any nut or bolt...

    so in this case, im not yet sure cutting anything off will not help get it out, it would just give me less to work with. Also when heating the body the extensions allow for the bolt to cool relative to the body.

    At some point, when this doesn't come out, then ill then proceed to cutting, perhaps that will actually help in some way like slowing down the ability to sink heat from the body, but its all theory really.

    Finally if i get to the point where everything is cut off and its still not out, then its ready for drilling.

    can check it all out here if you like
    http://tinyurl.com/myescort

    You can see the 2 knuckle through points.
    What a stupid design, instead of 2, this gives 4!!! individual points of potential fusion.
    The only forward thinking the designers did on this rear was the plastic cap on the head of the Xmember lateral links bolt, take that off and find everything nice and pristine clean.
    Too bad you may likely need to cut the nut off anyway, but at least you have a fighting chance on that one.
    The knuckle side gives you no such quarter.
  5. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    Last time I ran into a similar situation (actually with a strut-to-knuckle bolt) there was a tiny "lip" that had developed from my pounding. No amount of air-hammering would budge it beyond a certain point. Once I got a clue and filed that lip off, it slid right out.

    Using that press, can you flip the thing over, have one part of the press on the hub, the other part against the bolt, and force it out that way ? If the offset is an issue, you may be able to make a jig of sorts, out of some wood. (just don't be nearby if the wood shatters) May even adapt the car jack into a press of sorts. Just throwing some ideas out there...

    The part surrounding the bolt needs to expand. So heating the bolt won't do much good.
  6. axa

    axa FEOA Member

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    i do reckon some sort of hugging jig would be able to transfer the most pressure to the application, im not sure im willing to take the time to properly make something like that.

    since i bought a new car, i have time to peruse the physio-chemical solution, apply penetrant, heat, while under pressure until i finally say fuck it and destroy the bolt.

    funny thing is, the only knuckle ive found for sale so far that HAS a clear picture, show this damn bolt still stuck in place and they just chopped the lateral links down.

    this bolt is no joke, a month from now i bet ill have to have drilled it out.
  7. axa

    axa FEOA Member

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    turns out I'm not as patient as I thought I could be. pounded the bolt out and ruined it.
    analysis after the fact shows indeed even pb blaster wasn't creeping its way up and penetrating through out the shaft where the 18 years of corrosion did penetrate, but Im not going to wait another 18 years.

    hope the left side proves more cooperative.
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2014
  8. axa

    axa FEOA Member

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    Alrite, final assessment is the crossmember bolts will come off, since the front ends are well capped, the only oxidation that happens is at the nut, just get some leverage, take your time and the bolts will come off.
    If for some reason they dont just split the nut and leave the bolt alone, it doesnt need to be damaged and you will regret it if you do.

    The spindle side is a whole different story you can lube, heat, press the the shit out of it but its oxidized through and will need to be slammed out will a small sledge hammer...
    You will damage the head and perhaps mushroom it so large it wont fit through the hole, but at the point you get it lose, you can then cut that off.

    Then replace those with the links above to with the class 10.9 220mm bolts.
  9. rdracer

    rdracer Well-Known Member

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    I realize this is an old thread, however I just removed the lateral link bolts from my 93 GT. Hopefully my experince and research helps others.

    It took about 1 day to get the really stuck bolt out of the spindle. I first wire brushed the parts of the bolt that were accessable. Then I applied PB Blaster, let it sit for a few hours, heated the spindle and bushing sleves up with a torch, hit the bolt with a big hammer, impacted in both directions with a 1100 ft lb impact. After about 8-10 attempts, one of the control arm sleves came off, then 1-2 attempts later, the bolt came out of the spindle.

    As for a replacement bolt, while ford doesn't have it, mazda does (under another part number), and it is: B455-28-113. Got the new bolt today, and it is identical to what I removed.
  10. axa

    axa FEOA Member

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    i reckon it may well depend on what part of the country you live.
    In Arizona or the rust belt, likely to have completely different experience.

    Wish i would have crossed ref these bolts though... Unlike the originals, the bolts I used from fastenal are likely very rust-able... i covered then with permatex rust eliminator, then anit seize compound but really i don't anticipate they will ever come off again...

    and heres another thread about all it all
    http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?41117-Mazda-Part-Number-for-Rear-Spindle-Bolts
  11. grampy666

    grampy666 FEOA Donator

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    too bad I caught this thread when you were 3/4 of the way done...I have all the rear suspension components from a '91 GT including the disc brake hubs and those god-awful long bolts...this is a bolt-in swap for 2nd gen LX and wagons...
  12. madmatt2024

    madmatt2024 FEOA Member

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    Yes.

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