rebuilding rear linkages | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)

rebuilding rear linkages

Discussion in 'Tech & Repair' started by axa, Jan 8, 2014.

  1. axa

    axa FEOA Member

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    wow , wish i thought to look for this forum like a decade ago...

    i have a 96 escort lx 1.9 3 door... generally i keep it well maintained, paying attention to the engine, drive train and front end... thus i was sort of neglecting the rear which i must have thought would lats forever...

    last week i found my right rear suspension gave, by the time it totally went the common problem of a coil snapped, the strut totally broke away from the top mounting studs, and the rear lateral adjustable link assisted by 18 years of rust snapped in half...

    now i have to rebuild the rear, but need to know 2 things...
    First, how to find new bushings for the parts 5500 front and rear lateral links, and 5K898 vertical tie rod.
    I suppose if they dont exist i could turn them on the lathe if i knew what the proper material was...

    Second, how to remove to remove link bolt 5Z997 that connects the 2 lateral links from the wheel knuckle...
    mine is real stuck.

    last where i could get bolt 5Z998 on the cheap, in haste i cut mine off as i didnt think it was such a costly part...
    these are 10.9 bolts, roughly equivalent to grade 8 bolts, but i cant find anything that long in that grade...


    Thanks for any info, especially the bushings... hate to have to buy all new parts just for the bushings...
  2. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    I have no idea, but the toe adjusting thing is available on Rock Auto, and most likely Amazon and eBay. Moog, Raybestos, and Dorman make them (do not buy the Dorman version). Find the part number and search for the part number on Rock Auto and you will find more choices with various Mazda's listed as the appropriate car (they don't list this part under Escorts, for some reason).

    Now as far as the bolt, you might have to get the part number from the Ford dealer, but it's probably a Mazda part number better off purchased at a Mazda dealer or Tasca parts online. If you can not find that bolt locally, perhaps you need to try harder like a bolt specialty place or Grainger (maybe). Whatever bolt you buy please post the specs here. If I ever change out that rear toe adjusting thing, I will also change out that bolt as well since it's also just as rusted out.

    In case it's not obvious as to what the OP is looking to replace it's the rear toe adjusting thing that looks like this:
    [​IMG]

    RAYBESTOS Part # 6111067 $43.79 part number might really be 611-1067
    Moog K100050


    And you would be looking for one or more of the bolts that go through the holes on both sides.
  3. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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  4. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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  5. axa

    axa FEOA Member

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    Thanks guys, actually I got most of that already, thought the cross numbers with Mazda is good new info.

    Actually its worse than that, the bolt i cut off is this one:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/271132184380?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
    FOCZ5Z998A Ford Bolt
    Price:
    US $92.72

    And thats the lowest price i could find so far.

    Its over a foot long, and graded 10.9, even specialty shops that would make big bolts have a min order of $100.

    But that bolt you guys point out on the other side of the linkage is almost certainly going to have to be replaced as well, it is in wheel knuckle thing entirely exposed and full of oxidation, i doubt its coming out easy. And ive already read on this site that its notorious for not coming out easy.

    I could turn something with hardened alloy Steele but I'm not going to kid myself, it would have a fraction of the tensile strength of the OEM.


    So now that this seems it is going to leave my pockets empty, how about some info on the bushing replacements in the other linkages that i will try to reuse?
    I have no choice but to but a set of rear lateral linkages, with the toe adjustment as these broke because of rust, but the other 2 could be rebuilt.


    damn, $200 for a new set of rear linkage bolts seems real excessive for an 18 year old car...
    If i can get the other 3 out without destroying them i may just bite the bullet.
    But if i ruin them too, ill have to fabricate.

    Ive run the numbers and I am considering fabricating these with 5/8" 4340 steel and threading both sides, i can get it for less than 6$ a foot, + shipping...
    But while ultimate tensile strength is very close the same, the yield tensile strength will be less than 3/4 than the 10.9 OEM bolt.
    That concerns me but at this point, ill treat it like riding an 80 year old woman, and take it real easy from now on. I want it to last.

    Well we'll see , i dont need to justify dumping too much $ on in this thing anymore. ive just got myself a new FRS...
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2014
  6. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Even Tasca parts wants more that that for it!

    Can you give exact specs on it? Even things like the bolt head size might be useful. Are you sure that it's a 10.9, since you would most likely have more options with an 8.8 bolt.


    Wouldn't you want to fabricate something with a base that's metric instead???
    Can you use 10.9 threaded rod? Or stainless steel threaded rod?
  7. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Even though I think I know what everything looks like, can you post some pics of the rusty stuff? On mine the right side is way rustier than the left there.
  8. axa

    axa FEOA Member

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    With pleasure, if anyone could help me locate something that would be fantastic.
    Its a class 10.9, 26 cm or so long, 14mm bolt, which tapers down at the end to 12mx1.25 fine threads.

    Yes, what i meant to say was i will start with 5/8" and take it down to 14mm to fit the application precisely. Thats kind of hard stuff so id rather start with 9/16 which is nearly perfect, but i wouldn't be surprised if i couldn't find it.

    If i could find a 14mm foot long 10.9 threaded rod or otherwise, id probably use that...
    but i cant find anything over 150mm unless its custom made or otherwise very expensive.
    Ive posted a wanted ad, so we'll see.

    As far as stainless, yield strength is far less than 4340, or 10.9 for that matter, id be quite nervous driving with it.
    There will be quite a bit of stress build up when something gets in that wheels way and wants to pry that fastening apart...
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2014
  9. axa

    axa FEOA Member

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    I dont think its any coincidence and id bet pro mechanics know, the right side will wear down and out faster, cuz the rougher roads and standing water sitting on the side of the road.

    sure wish i took better care of these parts years ago... just didnt know any better

    posted some pics here

    by the way, is there any reason i cant insert pics directly in this post?
    or do i just not know what im doing?
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2014
  10. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    I would think you could find M14 threaded rod on the internet, even with the 10.9 requirement. Not sure how expensive that might be.
  11. axa

    axa FEOA Member

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    You would think so...
    and you were right!
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2014
  12. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    Out of curiosity, what did Fastenal say ?

    After having done a cross-compatibility check with newer generations including 3rd-Gen, ZX2, Focus, spend some time in the junkyards. You may find some that are recoverable.
  13. axa

    axa FEOA Member

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    well what do you know... i just checked them directly and found they have a grade 8.8 14mm 280mm bolt for only $8, smaller sizes can be way more...

    M14-2.0 x 280mm DIN 931 Class 8.8 Plain Cap Screw
    http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/38997

    I dont know how i missed it, maybe i was looking only 10.9 at the time.
    grade 8.8 being better than the 4340 i was looking to fab...

    Apparently the DIN931 standard specs 53mm thread length for bolts over 200mm, so that
    makes it match pretty well to the X-member side.

    No doubt, overall the grade 10.9 is significantly stronger than 8.8 bolt, but i made my calculation based on the fact that the weak link will be the 12mm threaded reduction. Then if you calculate the area of 12mm grade 10.9 vs 14mm grade 8.8, the yield strength is almost identical.

    There could be some factors im missing but, im confident enough about this...
    If it were the front end with all the abuse it takes, id think again...

    As for the knuckle side threads needs to start at about 190mm so the 220mm bolt is a match if as many predict wont come out in tact.
    There are three choices, including two OEM grade 10.9 bolts. Not sure if it makes much sense to go 10.9 on one side when the other is going to be the weak link anyway.

    M14-2.0 x 220mm DIN 931 Class 8.8 Plain Cap Screw
    Manufacturer: Fastenal Approved Vendor
    SKU: 38995

    M14-2.0 x 220mm DIN 931 Class 10.9 Plain Cap Screw
    Manufacturer: Fastenal Approved Vendor
    SKU: 35115

    M14-2.0 x 220mm DIN 931 Class 10.9 Plain Cap Screw
    Manufacturer: Fastenal Approved Vendor
    SKU: MM2680220PF0000

    All of these starting at twice the price of the larger bolt. go figure.

    the 3rd gen seems to get rid of this expense and has individual front and rear link bolts rather than 1 long one.

    which years focus and zx2 could be compatible?
    ive read one thread on suspension compatibility already, it wasn't exactly clear.

    thanks
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2014
    zzyzzx likes this.
  14. madmatt2024

    madmatt2024 FEOA Member

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    The ZX2 and 3rd gen suspensions are identical. Focus is completely different.
  15. axa

    axa FEOA Member

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    So now that the bolt situation looks situated, how about those bushings?
    Mine look ok, but while replacing both adjustable rear lateral links, i want to rebuild both sets of front lateral links and rear tie bars.

    Where in the world do we get adequate bushings for these?
  16. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    Energy Suspension makes polyurethane bushings for 3rd-Gen rear/front.

    The front I tried... https://www.feoa.net/threads/energy-suspension.82759/#post-738558

    Still have the rear, boxed, brand new but never tried installing them. Was too afraid of attempting to take apart the rear over the very frustrations you're dealing with now.

    From what I remember, they look identical to 2nd-Gen. Prefer that someone else again confirm compatibility.
  17. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Upload to Image Shack and post here. Google User content probably can't be posted here (I don't know that for sure). If I was viewing the right picture, it broke at a bolt hole, right???
  18. axa

    axa FEOA Member

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    i see. well i need to signup for another online service like i need another hole in my head. i reckon links to google will suffice.

    The lateral link broke not at but near the cross member bolt hole.
    The strut broke from its 2 bolt tabs on the body side top the wheel well.
    What might have broke first was the coil, there was plenty of notice before it got too far. the cold just made me want to ignore it.
  19. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    Don't have to sign-up or in to use http://ImageShack.US/ .

    EDIT: Nevermind. I see they've changed. Sign up is now required. :wtf::yuck:

    See if you can use Drive.Google.Com
  20. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    If you don't want to have to signup for something, use Postimage. Having said that, for some reason those links expire.

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