Drivetrain - rear trans/motor mount | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)
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Drivetrain rear trans/motor mount

Discussion in 'Drivetrains' started by Skittles, Mar 12, 2014.

  1. Skittles

    Skittles FEOA Member

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    I know none of you are my personal search engine but Ive been unable to find any help regarding the rear engine/ transmission mount. Listed as rear engine mount #4. Aside from pictures depicting which mount it is.

    I'm not looking for an in depth how to, just a general explanation as this Haynes manual is very unspecific. The mount is shot, I've never replaced a mount like this.

    Any and all help is greatly appreciated. regardless I'm tackling this tomorrow. i cant drive when it sounds like whole drive train is in my passenger seat.
  2. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    If yours is a 2nd gen Escort LX with automatic or manual trans, I can give you some basic idea. You get a look at it from underneath the car, at the back of the front to rear crossmember. There are really two parts to it: The bracket that holds the isolator to the back of the transaxle, & the isolator itself, with the extended 'foot' where it is supported on that crossmember. Aside from its scrunched location, it has two through bolts on the bracket on the differential - and those bolts can be reached for removal only from the driver's side. You will need to be able to raise the back of the engine a few inches, and then it will be 'barely' possible to undo them from above (or perhaps working through next to the tie rod. I personally would figure on removing the battery, the battery tray, and the motor mount under that - to be able to jack up the transmission by the bell housing. Any combination of sockets or box end wrenches that enable you to take them out is good. They will be hard to remove if there is any weight on the bracket - so you might want to have the two nuts off the bottom studs.
    Even then you will need to get the two nuts off of the studs holding the isolator down to the crossmember, and once you have the two through bolts out of the bracket, you can try wiggling and turning the thing to get it to come out, under the differential but above the front to rear crossmember. This would be easier if you can undo the front to rear crossmember and lower it too; but getting the two through bolts out is going to look impossible - but its just hard to reach. If you have to jack up the transmission further, be sure to do it safely (with an extra jack for instance, while the front of the car is held up by heavy duty supports of some kind. I prefer 6 x 6 and 8 x 8 lumber chunks). And keep an eye out that you arent in danger of snapping something off due to the unusual engine/trans angle.
    If yours is an automatic trans, I dont think you will need to undo anything else in order to jack up the trans. If yours has the 5-speed, you may need to unbolt the shifter rod that comes up into the rear bottom of the transmission; to be able to jack up the trans enough. I dont know, since Im fond of replacing those rear-most motor mounts when I have the trans out for any other reason.
    That is it in basic terms. Little Jobs like this can soak up a couple of days of your time.
    Another chore you might want to do while you have the battery and battery tray out, is to try and work the Vehicle Speed Sensor up and out of the back end of the transaxle (the differential part), so as to clean off any corrosion, recoat it thickly with silicone grease or an anti-seize compound and put it back in. If yours is a 5-speed, that VSS is the only means of checking the fluid level in the trans and adding more.
    If yours is a 3rd gen, the stuff underneath bay be slightly different - but probably not easier.
    zzyzzx and Skittles like this.
  3. Skittles

    Skittles FEOA Member

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    the motor mount under the battery tray is the one im talking about, its mounted half sideways, your thinking of #1, that one is fully intact as are the other two, the one on the radiator is good no cracks, as is the passenger side. so if im reading this correctly the one i need to remove is easy.
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2014
  4. Gamer92

    Gamer92 FEOA Donator

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    I've never removed that mount, but I believe it is fastened to the frame rail and the transmission. An inpact would be your best bet to get the bolts loose since they may be torqued or rusty. You will need to jack the transmission up to support it. Hopefully Denison will be able to give you the details in that mounts replacement.
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2014
  5. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    That one is easy if the bolts are not badly rusted: Supporting that side of the trans, and getting about 4 bolts and 3 nuts loose. You can depend on the 4 bolts being rusty, as that location is directly below the battery. I used a 3/8" ratchet, long extension, and a pipe over the end of the ratchet handle to start them loosening. I always lube bolt threads before I put them back in.
  6. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Are you saying that it's possible to replace that rear transmission mount without removing the crossmember or engine/transmissioin???
  7. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    Yup. I think so. But we really need some other member to confirm or confute. Anybody want to try?
  8. drommer

    drommer FEOA Member

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    Yes. I always "Window Weld" all 4 of the mounts on my race cars when I build them. All 4 are removable without removing engine/trans/crossmembers. Just jackup Motor/trans. Loosen them all, take one out at a time.
  9. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    OK, so I can replace that back transmission mount and maybe only really need to remove the battery and that mount and loosen the front transmission mount. I'll have to give it a try sometime.
  10. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    Well; remove the battery and its tray, and undo the motor mount undo it. Thats the one that lets the trans tilt up at the differential end. I cant recall if I unbolted the motor mount that faces the battery.
    zzyzzx likes this.
  11. Skittles

    Skittles FEOA Member

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    i successfully replaced said mount, upon further inspection i filled rear mount with window weld, i let this sit for 2hrs before removing support from transmission. started engine let it hit nuetral on the mounts and tightened them all down. upon full cure i have the slight vibration in hips....not much to complain about...and now i need wheel bearings :/
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2014

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