Suspension - Rear suspension is this a car killer !!!! | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)

Suspension Rear suspension is this a car killer !!!!

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by Bullethead104, Feb 16, 2019.

  1. Bullethead104

    Bullethead104 FEOA Member

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    I been driving my 1995 LX down the highway and it's has a swagger as you drive. The ass end felt like the bushing were gone. When I got new tires last year the wheel alignment guy said he could not adjust the rear control arm. So, I figured kill two birds with one stone. Tighten up the rear with new arms and be able to adjust the arm for proper tire wear.
    This what happen this morning:
    rear ds suspension.jpg
    So, is a car killer or can I get the parts to repair this???
    Let me know Please..
  2. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    Rust belt classic. That's among the reasons I didn't fiddle with any rear end parts when I got a new bushing kit. I knew shtuff would break after nearly two decades of being together in salt water... and notice we say "salt water" instead of "water salt" LoL.

    If that had snapped from driving, I'd have a STRONG suspicion that your trailing arm linkage were already compromised. But that snapped from trying to take it loose.

    Makes me wonder if I should go take everything apart and anti-seize it on my new car LoL...
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  3. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    To answer your question, no, this isn't a car killer by any means.

    It's just a royal PITFA.

    It'll be easier to pickup a new hub assembly versus trying to get that stud out of it. THen again you may be able to hammer it out. The bolts on the knuckles on the strut don't typically break. But they do typically take some work getting the bolts to slide out, as you have to relieve the pressure on them by compressing the strut to a certain point.

    When it comes to the rest of the bolts back there, expect them all to break too. :/

    In terms of a true car killer, see here...
    https://www.feoa.net/threads/no-srtut-tower-rust.82678/#post-732582

    .
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  4. Bullethead104

    Bullethead104 FEOA Member

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    I had that car killer fix couple years ago when I went oversea for six months. I dropped off the car to my buddy and he fix both towers and fixed the fenders. This is why I want to fix this car because it one owner and anything works. The ride down the road with the swagger was a little disturbing switching lanes. I didn't want the back to come out from underneath me. I knew the bushing were gone. I was able to find the rear control arm through rockauto but beside the control arms and struts for the rearend. I also checked with ford dealerships and ebay with no luck. I'm going to try the junkyards. Does anybody had these parts, the bolt, forward control arm separated from each other and want to sale them. Does anyone know if the top bolt fits the bottom bolt hole. I try to take the strut off the hub assembly and turn the bolt but I was twisting the drag link and forward control arm. Not good, so I hooker up the strut again and that's when the bolt broke rocking the bolt back and forth to try and break the rust. I also sprayed the crap out of it with PB Blaster and it still broke. Now, I'm on a parts search. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  5. Divine chaos

    Divine chaos FEOA Member

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    i limped mine to a shop in town. it took them most of the day to get the bolt out. Had to use an oxi/act torch to heat it up enough. Note this will destroy your rear lower trailing arm bushing. Also you will have to custom order a bolt, i went to fasenall. it was half by 9in i think. i ended up cutting some of mine off. It took a 4 foot cheater in my breaker bar to break my bolt. You could also center punch and drill the ends of the bolt but it is harder than a coffin nail. nolathane rev116.0010 is the bushing you will need. But if you do not have access to an oxi/act cutting torch, trying to drill it will take forever and lots of bits. a replacement spindle is your best option. Note the shop only charged me 100 bucks to remove the bolt, think he got the raw end of the deal. Said he has had one Subaru that was as difficult. But Your results may vary. you could look around at junkyards at a newer escorts to see if one has an adjustable rear left. then get the spindle with the arm. the upper cross link bolt was easy to remove. it would be easy enough. It was my 3rd option before just buying a new spindle. Hope this helps you out.
  6. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    Yes, https://www.fastenal.com/ is wonderful.
    Visit your local locations.
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  7. Divine chaos

    Divine chaos FEOA Member

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    i checked my local hardware stores. nothing. ive ordered some bolts for my motorcycle too. stainless, round button head allen bolts are not easy to find. The wait sucks, but this place is a life saver.
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  8. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Not a car killer!
    However, check the strut tower for rust.
  9. Bullethead104

    Bullethead104 FEOA Member

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    Update: This is not a Car Killer but one hell of a ride. After the bolt broke with 60 year old muscle and a 3 ft. breaker bar. I had to visit my neighbor and borrow a saw all to cut off the other side of the spindle bolt. Placing the spindle in the vise to cut the middle of the bolt with the dremel, thought less bolt to deal with the better. Now, with both sides of the bolt ready for the punch and BFH to get pounding for two day and being spray with PB Blaster with no results. I turn to the Mazda dealership for part numbers and a lot of research on the bolt and knuckle assy. The bolt was a success with the part number of NA-28-A0113 Mazda bought off eBay but not the knuckle was a no go. I went to the local junkyard but they only want to sell me the rear section for 150.00. After all of the research and ordering on eBay I asked one of my buddies if he knew anyone with a drill press. He was helpful and set me up with one for a case of Poland spring water. He drilled it out and when I received it back I had to clean up the hole with my dremel tool until the new bolt fit both sides. Now, One would think the pain is over but Nooo the top bolt needs to be removed to remove the bolt due to the forward control arm needing to be change. The top bolt hits the gas tank on the way out with this bolt in beautiful condition. So, I thought about it for a moment and decided to drop the rear suspension carrier instead of dropping the gas tank. I placed my 14 mm socket on the back bolt of the carrier with total success and now moved on to the front bolt with it starting to turn with no problems but then the bum inside the chassis let lose... AW crap. The carrier at this point was only down about a quarter of an inch. So, I broke out the saw all again and cut the bolt. With the carrier down and a 2x4 stuffed in between the chassis and the carrier. The bolt was able to be removed from the top. Switched out the components (front and rear control arms). Now I have to replace the carrier bolt. I cut a flap through the chassis big enough for the wrench to hold the bolt. Replaced the bolt and nut, placed the flap back and sealed with RTV. Everything else went back with no problems. Now, it's just adjusting the wheel to track straight, almost there. I'm going to try doing the other side but first I want to soak the bolt in rust remover. I know this is long but if I left anything out, let me know.
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  10. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    ^ He left out the part where he called me up to help and I said "heyelll naw that's a ka killa!"
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  11. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Pictures would have been nice.
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  12. Divine chaos

    Divine chaos FEOA Member

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    yea i always forget. i get too engrossed into what im doing and forget to snap a pic.
  13. Bullethead104

    Bullethead104 FEOA Member

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    from over the top looking down.jpg over the top of the wheel.jpg Just for you guys. The Start Broken Bolt.jpg Front control arm.jpg from front of the wheel.jpg The flap repaired and covered with RTV.jpg
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2019
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  14. Bullethead104

    Bullethead104 FEOA Member

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    Other Set Back adjustable control arm from Rockauto.jpg

    Attached Files:

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  15. novanutcase

    novanutcase FEOA Member

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    I noticed on my wagon that originally it came with only one adjustable control arm on the driver side so I pulled a rear arm off an LX and replaced the static one on there to gain a little more adjustability come alignment time.

    John
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  16. Divine chaos

    Divine chaos FEOA Member

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    i have found that was quite common on earlier years.

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