FEOA Forums banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
I like my roads curvy and downhill
Joined
·
104 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1997,escort,2.0l l4,1119361,brake & wheel hub
August 1,2020
CARDONE 19B1758 $60.69+$26.10=86.89
CARDONE 19B1759 $60.79+$32=92.79
#2 CARLSON H809 $1.77*2=$3.54
#2 BECK/ARNLEY 1030519 $2.27*2=$4.54
#2 RAYBESTOS BC95730 $19.78*2=$39.56
total $227.32
If I'm missing anything important then please tell me. I'd much rather just buy all new parts and swap em out next brake job then go to a junk yard to find the parts. I left out rotors and pads cause people very what kind they want. I do alot of fast down hill so I want better pads and nice rotors where as someone who doesn't run the mountains like they have a death wish won't need them. Don't care about the shields, Just don't. also No ABS, never liked it.

Rear Rotor Brakes Blueprint.png


this is what I'm going off.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,055 Posts
I think the parking brake cables are different, too.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Greenbean

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,941 Posts
Spindles?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Greenbean

·
I like my roads curvy and downhill
Joined
·
104 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Spindles?
I think the parking brake cables are different, too.
I didn't think they are but they are cheap enough that I wouldn't mind getting new ones anyway. I don't think their is a difference in the spindles, I considered getting new hubs but I didn't really think is was a need and after the conversion. If I need to replace them later on it'll be easy enough were I don't mind putting it off. If their a difference then of course I'll get it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,941 Posts
Everything I've read over the years states that the spindles are different between the rear disk and drum setups. This is why people typically get the disk swap parts from a junkyard, because it's the only way to get the spindles which I'm pretty sure are discontinued from Ford.
 

·
I like my roads curvy and downhill
Joined
·
104 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Everything I've read over the years states that the spindles are different between the rear disk and drum setups. This is why people typically get the disk swap parts from a junkyard, because it's the only way to get the spindles which I'm pretty sure are discontinued from Ford.
Just to be clear, The Spindle is the part that holds the hub while also having the mounting points for the calipers? Or Is the Spindle the Hub which allows the tire to spin freely. If you please give a picture of a spindle for disc brakes. Also found this. https://www.onlinemazdaparts.com/pr...modelYear=0&ukey_driveline=0&ukey_trimlevel=0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,941 Posts
It's part #1 in the diagram you posted.
Mazda knuckles won't be an exact fit for a 3rd gen/ZX2. You need a custom spacer for one of the control arms to run them. Some pics I found.
 

·
I like my roads curvy and downhill
Joined
·
104 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well that's fun.
P#F7CZ4A013CE
Knuckle
Knuckle, LEFT
DISC BRAKE
P#F7CZ4A013CD
Knuckle
Knuckle, RIGHT
DISC BRAKE
Yep, They look to be discontinued for some reason. Which to me sounds really odd that they would but I guess to be fair, it's just a hunk of steel.
 

·
I like my roads curvy and downhill
Joined
·
104 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
*Update* I have placed my order for the bracket. I'm unsure when it'll come in but I will keep everyone posted however I'm not going to install it for a while. I'll demo it on my dead shell.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RVJ

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13 Posts
+1..I just ordered a bracket kit, too... Was always hoping for someone to step up and build/sell such items for the "forgotten masses"...
will follow-up, too...
Ricardo
 

·
I like my roads curvy and downhill
Joined
·
104 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I kinda forgot about this XP I finally got the bracket in but my car's engine started to knock so the rear brakes have been stopped like the rest of it till I can get the engine to stop peaking. I did however also got two M8-1.25 x 130mm bolts to help remove the old drums.
 

·
I like my roads curvy and downhill
Joined
·
104 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
What the kit came with.
100_0021.JPG
 
  • Like
Reactions: ndlm8888

·
I like my roads curvy and downhill
Joined
·
104 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Haven't forgotten this, I still have the kit. Just my rear brakes are not dead yet, I might just jump the gun when I run into some extra cash. I checked the pads, That was fun. Can't wait to change over the rotors just because it's easier for me to work on.
 

·
Registered
1991 and 1992 1.9l spd 4 dr. one of each
Joined
·
14 Posts
Yes is sounds really cool to add rear disc brakes. How many sets of front pads can you wear out before you need new rear shoes with drum brakes? The braking pressure you can apply to the rear wheels is limited. The weight available to keep the rear tires from locking up is minimal. If you are in the rust belt todays rear disc brake vehicles need rear brake work because of corrosion, pads or slides hanging up causing them to wear out prematurely. Rear disc on Silvarado, F150, Grand Prix, Toyota Camry or Rav, Tundra.
With drum brakes the drum protects the braking surfaces from the elements. With rotors the braking surfaces and moving parts are accessible by the spray of water and salt. Yes its cool. How about HHO or aerodynamic belly pans?
 

·
I like my roads curvy and downhill
Joined
·
104 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I live in the bottom half the rust belt. I will say, When I pulled off my drum JUST TO LOOK AT THE WEAR. I had to use two hammers, a torch, and 2 bolts. it took 1 hour for just one, I didn't bother trying the other. I put anti-sieze to at least try to help prevent it from getting stuck like that again. I'm not really worried about rust on my rotors and more of rust on the car itself. I've started to drive something else in the winter all together and looking for undercoating.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,941 Posts
I live in the bottom half the rust belt. I will say, When I pulled off my drum JUST TO LOOK AT THE WEAR. I had to use two hammers, a torch, and 2 bolts. it took 1 hour for just one, I didn't bother trying the other. I put anti-sieze to at least try to help prevent it from getting stuck like that again. I'm not really worried about rust on my rotors and more of rust on the car itself. I've started to drive something else in the winter all together and looking for undercoating.
Wait until the inner lip rots off the drum backing plate, it's the only thing that stops water (and in the winter, salt and sand) from getting onto the drum and shoes. They will lock up really easily and can cause you to fishtail and spin out in the winter. Fortunately, when I still had my car I was able to find a decent set on a junkyard that still had the lip and was able to stop the issue.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Greenbean
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top