Random FYI | Page 2 | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)
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Random FYI

Discussion in '2nd Gen 1991-1996 1.9L SOHC' started by marclar, Dec 2, 2004.

  1. indn1

    indn1 Guest

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    Don't make sense? I'm trying to stop a leak at a power steering pump. The prassure line fitting is cone shaped on the end. And the seat it fits into is flat. The thing drips eaven when stoped.
  2. 95EscortDriver

    95EscortDriver FEOA Member

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    Also, the Timing belt is different for some models. Some have Square-like grooves, some are rounded. Went crazy looking for the right crank pulley for her car. Had to buy from Ford.

    BTW, yes, talking about just the 1.9L
  3. Rybo

    Rybo Guest

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    Great info! I know I use only Toyota coolant in my pkup cause it says it is non-corrosive to water pumps( aluniminum ) and it seems I've seen non-toyota coolants at parts stores that say same thing.

    I'm preparing to change out water pump, timing belt, accessory belt, etc....thermostate maybe, and wondering if I should buy the coolant with the anti-corrosive labeling?

    My toyota coolant is red. I saw in 2003 Focus the coolant was orange-like.

    I have 2 gallons of the regular 50/50 green coolant mix. Hate to not use it, but I don't want to overheat this $2000.00 newer 97 Escort of mine.

    Ryybo
  4. Rybo

    Rybo Guest

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    Ok, answered my own question.

    ..."An alternative to tradition green antifreeze is a product currently used by many engine manufacturers. "Orange" antifreeze is a long life or extended life type of antifreeze used to increase the useful life of engine coolant. It is ethylene glycol base as is the green antifreeze. The difference between the two colors is that orange antifreeze contains a different type of corrosion inhibitor that has a much longer service life than silicates, phosphates and borates. Orange antifreeze contains organic acids that protect engine parts from corrosion. Silicate (green) type antifreeze does not mix with orange type antifreeze. Never mix the two colors in a cooling system. The organic acids in orange types will cause precipitation of silicates in the green type and corrosion protection is greatly reduced. Orange type antifreezes are good for five years or 100,000/150,000 miles in newer vehicles (1996 and later). They can be used in many older vehicles (ask your vehicle dealer if it is safe to use orange antifreeze) if all of the green mixture is flushed from the system and is replaced with the orange mixture. Useful life is about four years or 60,000 miles in older cars.

    Toyota uses a red antifreeze in many of its products and should not be confused with the orange type long life antifreezes. It is essentially the green type of antifreeze that contains red dye to give it the red color.

    If you have doubts about switching from the red or green type of antifreeze to the new orange extended life antifreezes, contain your equipment manufacturer or dealer and ask about compatibility with your engine parts and cooling system."...

    Rybo
  5. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    Re "stinky A/C":

    Some may notice that the air initially is smells like urine or piss (mold) regardless of whether their air-conditioning is actually on; especially during or immediately after high humidity weather.

    Get a shop vacuum cleaner, take up the black plastic (sometimes brittle) cowling beneath the windshield, and sweep out all the debris. On the passenger side you will see a grill. This is the grill that leads directly to your blower motor. If need be, the blower motor can be dropped to remove debris that get past the grill.

    Do this seasonally (particularly after all the leaves come off the trees) to prevent the problem from recurring.

    But basically, the mold you're smelling is from rotting debris (leaves, buds, bugs, etc) beneath the windshield's black plastic cowling.
  6. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    Last edited: Jan 12, 2016
  7. Smitty10

    Smitty10 New Member

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    also if the noise suppressor on the coil pack is bad or the wire is broken it will cause it to whine or buzz through the speakers. mine did that.
  8. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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  9. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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  10. DangerRanger

    DangerRanger FEOA Member

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    Marclar is the Man

    I tend to pay attention to what Marclar says as he does make a lot of sense. I am about to take the head off of my 93 1.9 (which is out of the car ) and am concerned about 'de-torqueing' the bolts. The head is actually still good and I want to keep it that way. Now I have to see if I can find any more info on this.
    As for his info on the MAF, that sounds a lot like my 94 and I have to check on that too. Keep up the good information, Marclar. You da Man.
  11. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    EDIT: 11y08m11d13h58m01s
    Vacuum Gauge Testing: How to read AND INTERPRET:
    http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm
    (exxccceellleennttt)


    Ford Escort 2nd Gen GROUNDING LOCATIONS:
    https://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... 906#646906

    Component Locations: (Rebel4055)
    http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/wscha ... raphic.gif

    Remove Alternator in 5 Minutes:
    https://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=70988

    Troubleshooting / Diagnosing / Analyzing Fan + A/C Circuits Yourself:
    Wiring Diagram: (from EscortLvr1)
    http://app.onlinephotofiler.com/Images/ ... b930a243ec
    https://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... 679#614679
    https://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... 109#646109
    https://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... 969#644969
    https://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=35441
    https://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... 267#709267
    MAPPING RELAYS: in general will have 5 pins, two are 12v and ground (signal side), another 14v (alternator-power) and remaining two switch between device(s)/circuit(s) - note that one of the remaining two are often null/off/unused
    TIP: Check your fan every oil change by manually spinning it. IF it is noisy, rough, or stiff, replace it. Otherwise it may slowly destroy your electrical system.

    EDIT: 11y08m11d11h23m03s
    ECT & Temperature Sender VOLTAGE & RESISTANCE CHARTS:
    https://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... 072#677072
    https://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... highlight=
    and MacG's YouTube post here...
    https://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... 569#691569
    There are TSBs (technical service bulletins) on the temperature gauge.

    EDIT 13y12m25d11h51m18s
    Fan & Temperatures:
    https://www.feoa.net/threads/coolant-fan.81943/#post-726792
    EDIT: 10y12m22d_121809


    Cleaning the IAC (Idle Air Control) solenoid / valve:

    https://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=71349

    EDIT: 11y01m08d_113642
    Cleaning the Heater Core, Radiator:
    https://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... 608#654608
    (NOTE: CLR may accelerate corrosion with copper and aluminum, so flush thoroughly, use as a last-ditch effort and be prepared to replace the cores if they begin to leak)
    "Radiator Combs" are used to unbend the fins.
    160F Thermostats are used to allow an engine to run cooler in cooler weather. (takes longer to activate fans and may run for a shorter time in hot weather) 190F thermostats are standard. (more info)


    EDIT: 11y02m14d_140652
    2nd-Gen Front Control Arm Bush Kit
    https://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... 981#616981
    (in short, seek and use 3rd-Gen '97 control arm bushing kit)


    EDIT: 11y03m15d_113252
    How to BREAK your Radiator
    https://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... 249#664249
    :club: :mad:
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2013
  12. sketchman

    sketchman FEOA Member

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    Awesome info. :D
  13. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    How to Test Struts: (skip to 1:50 in video)

    " h t t p : / / w w w . y o u t u b e . c o m / w a t c h ? v = f S Q P p 7 4 i b g 8 "
    modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=689976
    modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=688770#688770

    Chronic Wiper Blade Replacements:
    The LEAST reliable part on the vehicle seems to be the wiper... BLADES. Get sick of replacing them every 6-12 months ? I tried everything from the ultra-cheap to the most expensive in the store. Same result... well in fact, the more expensive ones were softer and fell apart a little quicker.

    If you can find them, buy Triple Edge Windshield Wiper Blades. "(The Original Silicon Wiper)" These things have actually gotten better with age, and haven't had to buy another f*g blade for over 2.5 years so far. At the time, had found these pretty danged cheap in a Walmart store. If I could easily find more, would buy them as backups! But so far my current ones show no signs of giving in.

    Windshield Clarity:
    Waxes used in car washes, while good for the paint job, seem to be bad for windshield clarity. "Mineral Spirits" (in hardware stores) are reported to be effective at removing waxes. 99% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol (applied to a *hot* windshield) seems to help cut through layers of the stuff, but is impractical due to needing a hot windshield. Degreasers, carb/brake cleaner, glass cleaners, vinegar, etcetera, does not work. Of course any and all solvents should be kept off of paints, plastics and rubbers. Road-spray may contain salt (abrasive) and/or engine oil; which loves to smear up the windshield. Premium glass cleaners such as "invisible glass" or others that foam are pretty good with this. For obvious reason, the benefit of use is temporary. So keep a roll of paper towels and this stuff in the vehicle.

    STOPPING - 10 tips for avoiding wrecks:
    modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=695023#695023


    TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS:
    modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=122045#122045


    MANUAL TRANSMISSION FYI:
    modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=723840#723840


    STEEL BRAKE LINES:
    viewtopic.php?f=34&t=81494#.UV4EhNtq3tg

    SPARK PLUG RELATED:
    https://www.feoa.net/threads/tip-cleaning-spark-plug-well-threads.78481/
    https://www.feoa.net/threads/is-there-really-anything-to-be-gained-spark-plug-question.80052/
    https://www.feoa.net/threads/ignition-mods.75234/#post-681527

    LIGHTING REPLACEMENTS: (HVAC, Dome, Map, Dash, Dummy, HeadLamp)
    Dome: https://www.feoa.net/threads/dome-light-bulb-that-is-really-bright.81193/
    Dash, HVAC: https://www.feoa.net/threads/replacing-dash-bulbs.83439/page-2#post-740936
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2014
  14. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    No Crank - Diagnosing:
    https://www.feoa.net/threads/no-crank-diag-tips.83250/

    Voltage Drop Testing:
    https://www.feoa.net/threads/intermittent-no-crank-no-start.85723/#post-763051


    HYDRAULIC ROLLER LIFTERS:
    (tapping noises from head)

    The noises they make are often mistaken for valve seat noises.
    They kind of sound like pebbles tapping on a cement garage floor.
    The noise is synonymous with engine rotation speeds, specifically the camshaft which rotates once for every two turns of the crankshaft.

    Just three valve cover bolts, eight rocker arm bolts, five to eight minutes and you're right there checking them. So it makes exactly zero sense to NOT check out this noise the minute you begin hearing it. Ignoring this can create a lot of unnecessary headaches down the road.

    Always inspect ALL of them, even if only one is bad.

    Photos of some bad ones...
    https://skydrive.live.com/#cid=0C43F28D3024191B&id=C43F28D3024191B!281
    The one on the left had evenly spaced flat spots on the roller.
    The middle one's roller hung-up in a spot, once, couldn't reproduce it, but visually speaking it's 100% okay.
    The one on the right had bearings missing on one side IIRC.

    Identifying a bad lifter...
    * Hold lifter upright.
    * Tap finger on bottom roller, offset to left bearing set, then offset to right bearing set.
    * If there is *ANY* play, *ANY* movement perpendicular to the axle, replace it.
    * If the roller moves horizontally along the axle, this is okay as long as there isn't sufficient clearance to allow bearings free.
    * Inspect bearings on either side of roller. Any missing, replace the lifter.
    * Hold upside-down.
    * Roller should turn smoothly, no hang-ups, no roughness.
    * There should be no flat-spots, uneven wear or pitting on the roller
    * The hydraulic press (button) on top in my experiences, never depresses using fingers. There are usually if not always, wear marks on the side of the press to indicate prior movement.
    * Note whether the axle is beginning to slide out from the lifter. If the axle budges in either direction, replace the lifter. (!!!)

    Inspect the cam lobe for pitting. Cam cannot be repaired, only replaced. This can be removed while the head is in-vehicle. Cam lobes can only be measured when cam is removed. Worn cam lobes only result with decreased intake or increased exhaust restriction.

    Valve cover bolts require a mere 7 ft-lbs of torque and are VERY VERY easy to snap. Use a torque wrench when tightening the rocker arm bolts. Compare your rocker arms and make sure that none of them show abnormal wear on the contact surfaces.

    Manual says to install "tappets" with yellow paint mark facing the larger oil feed hole in the bore.
    https://www.feoa.net/threads/ticking-tapping-pecking.76364/#post-689405
    (personally, haven't had issue matching the oil feed hole to the hole in the bore)

    PRIMING THE ENGINE post lifter/oil change:
    Hold the accelerator pedal to the floor, insert key, begin cranking for a maximum of 10 seconds at a time. Holding the pedal to the metal before and during crank, turns off the injectors. It's a feature that is meant to clear a flooded engine, but of course can be safely used for priming the engine before start.

    EVAP Purge Valve (2nd & 3rd Gen):
    https://www.feoa.net/threads/97-evap-code-p1443-little-no-flow-weird-idle.82263/

    Door Jamb Switches / Dome Light - Permanent Fix:
    https://www.feoa.net/threads/tip-fix-those-door-jamb-switches-no-dome-light.66354/

    Clean Spark Plug Well Threads:
    https://www.feoa.net/threads/tip-cleaning-spark-plug-well-threads.78481/

    EGR, EVAP, Vacuum Routing:
    http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to-test-whether-error-code-p0401-2004-ford-focus-is-accurate-396476/
    https://www.feoa.net/threads/random-observations.76702/#post-691227

    EDIS + EEC-IV Technical Information:
    See "High Data Rate (HDR) Electronic Distributorless Ignition Systems (EDIS)"...
    http://www.fordforumsonline.com/threads/identifying-and-understanding-ford-ignition-systems.3764/
    http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/EECIVInnerWorkings/
    http://dainst.com/info/edis/edis.html
    https://www.autosportlabs.net/Ford_EDIS_technical_information
    https://www.feoa.net/threads/turns-over-no-spark.92857/page-3#post-851257
    https://www.feoa.net/threads/turns-over-no-spark.92857/#post-849137

    PCV Valve Information:
    (nutshell: do not replace OEM part)
    https://www.feoa.net/threads/possible-faulty-iac-valve-on-a-96-lx-1-9l.67231/page-5#post-615766
    autos(d0t)yahoo(dot)com/maintain/repairqa/engine/ques079_1.html
    https://web.archive.org/web/2013072...o.com/maintain/repairqa/engine/ques079_1.html

    Stainless T304 vs T409:
    Consensus Opinion: http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts-mufflers/t304-vs-t409
    Alternative Opinion: http://www.bobsmuffler.com/Stainless.htm
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2016

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