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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently started having a weird problem. If I shift into second after getting high rpms in First, half my power disappears, like I'm only running on half my cylinders or a rev limiter kicked in or something. The engine feels and sounds rough when this is happening. To get the engine out of this "no power mode", I have to let almost all the way off the gas, then I can floor it and all my power has returned, and I can resume second gear acceleration. Also, I've noticed that sometimes the needle on my tachometer dances around a little bit. Not sure if it indicates a problem or if it's related to the weird power loss.

I once held the petal to the metal in this no power mode for several seconds and the check engine light came on. I pulled the codes and it came back as 216 #2 Coil, but I'm suspicious... seems odd that a bad coil would behave in this manner. The engine light turned off right after I lifted off the gas.

Anybody have any ideas?

Here is a video link which may or may not help:

I normally shift prior to red line but I was busy with the camera.
The vid shows normal acceleration through first, then when I shift, into second I'm pretty much stuck at 4k rpms cause the power is to low to accelerate. I try letting off the gas a couple times but it didn't help, then finally around 21 seconds into the video, I let off the gas enough to get out of "no power mode" and am able to resume normal acceleration.

Edit: Turns out I don't have to shift for it to loose power, just need high rpm.
 

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I looked up code 216 in the service manual, and about all that can be done without special tools is to check for spark on each cylinder. It also reccomends checking the plug wires, condition of the plugs, and to make sure they are gapped correctly.
The coil might be good and its the plugs or wires that are giving you problems. Hope this helps.
 

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it aLMOST resembles a vacuum problem or pcv valve as well. its almost like the engine gets going then the vacuum line collapses and chokes the motor after letting off the gas it re-opens then slightly closes again
 

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How many miles are on the car/engine. Sounds like good old valve float to me. WHY do so many insist on running these little mechanical miracles
to the redline. It is a factory suggestion of max RPMs not a shifting guideline. Your power curve on a stock Escort is shot, long before the 6k mark... :?
 

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them old 1.9's only make power til 4500 rpm after that the fuel trim doesnt change all the way to 6000 its a flatline
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've got 3 out of the 4 plugs and wires changed. I'll change the last one behind the alternator when the engine is cold and I have time. The main problem of long lasting "low power" is gone but I'm still experiencing shorter but significant power losses. It almost feels like the entire ignition system randomly goes dead four about 1/4 seconds and them comes back. I've noticed this mostly at low rpms at mid to hi throttle. The result feels a bit violent. I imagine the motor mounts probably don't appreciate it. If you've ever turned your ignition off while accelerating you know what I mean. It instantly goes from engine power to engine braking.

Is there any chance that the cars computer is getting confused about when to fire the spark plugs? Corrupted signal from the crankshaft position sensor maybe?
Could that be the cause of my occasional erratic needle movements on my tachometer?
 

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i read that ur tach was dancing and that made me think it's the ingnition module due to the fact that the tach is connected to this. if u think ur having trouble with the coil pack, disconnect the wire harness and test it with a ohmmeter set at 2 kilohms to check for resistance. the middle terminal on the connector side of the coil pack is for the volts. the other 2 terminals is for the spark. i think u test the ignition module the same way but not sure.
 
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