Potential Set up (n/a) | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)
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Potential Set up (n/a)

Discussion in 'Engine Tuning' started by theeskrat, Dec 26, 2007.

  1. theeskrat

    theeskrat Guest

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    Been thinking of the route I want to go with my Escort.

    Not going for a ton of power, but a quick daily driver. No boost set up plans yet, no time to tune properly.

    Tell me what you think are the potential strengths/weaknesses of this set up, or if you know someone with a similar set up and what their results are.


    -Full cold air intake (metal piping, cone filter)
    -Pacesetter Header (ebay special)
    -2.25 inch exhaust, header back (w/ cat)
    -Shaved Head (just to min. thickness, driven w/ 91 octane)
    -50% underdrive pulley
    -Lightened flywheel (machined to min. specs unless they sell one)
    -Stripped A/C
    -Adjustable cam gear (w/ bumped timing)

    -Short shifter (w/ poly bushings)
    -Poly Body bushings
    -15'' rims (195-50-15 tires)
    -Eibach drop springs
  2. alxdgr8

    alxdgr8 New Member

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    will probably gain about 10hp at the max but will handle nicely. it's very easy to make a low boost setup for cheap and reliable that's decently quick and requires no tuning.
  3. TexasTracer

    TexasTracer FEOA Member

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    I'd suggest S/R struts and wider tires for better handling-205/50/15.
  4. theeskrat

    theeskrat Guest

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    There is a setup that requires no tuning? The main reason I'm avoiding the boost setup is the added cost of the Megasquirt, and my lack of knowledge on tuning a standalone. Do you know of any threads I could check out on the low boost setup?


    Other than that, does anybody know of any other means of gaining N/A performance other than those listed? (without using a standalone, or hacking the ecu)
  5. theeskrat

    theeskrat Guest

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    I've heard of the S/R struts in other threads, is S/R the brand name?
  6. TexasTracer

    TexasTracer FEOA Member

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    THe S/R struts are factory replacement performance tuned struts from Ford Racing. It was offered on the limited production ZX2 S/R.
  7. jet-lee

    jet-lee Guest

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    Cam grind.
  8. Yoda

    Yoda FEOA Member

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    You don't need to run standalone. I don't think that many people do on here.

    It's not that there's a turbo setup that doesn't need tuning really, but the lower the boost you run, the safer it is.
  9. theeskrat

    theeskrat Guest

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    What is the other option for providing added fuel, or does the computer compensate when ran on low boost? I've read a few threads on the topic, but I havent come across a conclusive answer.
  10. alxdgr8

    alxdgr8 New Member

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    Just run 6-7psi on 93 octane with 19# injectors and an FMU with a DSM turbo manifold setup. Look at Jeff's daily driver for an example.
  11. theeskrat

    theeskrat Guest

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    Wow.. that guy's basically written a Haynes manual on Turboing an escort...
  12. malachi

    malachi Guest

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    For the amount your looking to spend on all the other things, you could do the turbo conversion yourself for less.

    Megasquirt (MS) is inexpensive and very easy to get your car running on. Tuning it can be hard if your not familiar with tuning at all.

    If you upgrade your injectors, and run an FMU, you can get away with under 7 psi (and anything under a 7psi is a waste of time IMO) without using a standalone or piggyback. It mostly has to do with how healthy your engine is. An old motor is not going to last no matter what safety percautions you do.

    Honestlly, I chuckle under my breath when a guy brags about having a header on a 4 banger.

    If you can weld, you and turbo any 4 cylinder car for under $1000 tops. This means you do all the work yourself.
    I found buying just a small MIG welded from Home Depot was the largest single expense.
    You can run upto 10 psi with a set of injectors from a Quad 4 and an 8:1 or 10:1 FMU. It should still be safe. But that is pure out my ass speculation. Til someone does it, ya never know.
  13. PonyExpress

    PonyExpress New Member

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    ive seen 9psi from my EXP turbo setup on 15# injectors with a 12:1 FMU.. AFRs were steady in the green.

    wouldnt recommend it though. id say stick to 8psi and lower, and up the injector size for sure. then you'll be ok.

    i do have to disagree however that anythign under 7psi is a waste.. when youre starting out with less than 100hp, that extra 60-70hp you get with 7psi is a God-send.
  14. theeskrat

    theeskrat Guest

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    Not to be rude, but luckily it's not opinion that makes horsepower, it's physics. I wouldn't brag about it, but it does improve power. Any inprovement in flow, especially the difference there is between an exhaust manifold and header, will free up power.

    Also, I picked my setup to be a daily driver. It may be just as cheap to do a motor swap or a turbo setup, but driveability and reliability drop exponentially when you add one-off or homemade parts, as would be the case with the turbo set up. Also, fuel efficiency is important as my daily, and without proper tuning a turbo set up or a standalone set up probably wouldn't produce the mileage my N/A set up would.
  15. alxdgr8

    alxdgr8 New Member

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    Jeff turboed his daily for under $300 and has had no problems for like two years now. Josh put like 8k miles on the setup currently on my car and I put another 6k on it allready and haven't had any problems besides a slipping clutch and the motor has near 200k on it. Even with an FMU I still managed 30mpg on the highway. With the SCT Flasher and my tune I can manage 35mpg on a good day. You just gotta take your time and do it right and it can be reliable.
  16. malachi

    malachi Guest

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    I have yet to see a 4 cylinder car that dynos with 70hp increase with only 7 psi or less. I'm not saying it can't happen, but acutal output is usually grossly less than the expected numbers. The rule of thumb I tend to see is 7 psi=50% of starting HP.
    If you put the 98hp motor onto a dyno.... don't feel bad when the TRUE wheel numbers are like 60. Alot of folks start with the idea that "at the factory" it made XXhp.
    It made that amount at the crank brand new, before drivetrain, and at a SPECIFIC RPM range (measured within under 200rpm varience.). When most 4 cylinder cars launch, they are starting at like 30-50hp tops. then build the hp as the rpm's increase.
    I am not against headers, but total gains of them is so minor on small displacment engines. Some headers are even worse than the stock mainfolds. On the engines I am used to working with the Pacesetter header is crap. You LOSE HP installing it and gain loudness. Which is great for the mall parking lot hero, but not for me personally.

    All this said, I still advise converting to a turbo. Using a junkyard stock sized T25 range with custom mani. Most sotckers are set at 5-7psi normally on the wastegate. Dont buy a MBC and enjoy many miles of fun spirited driving. Or buy one and have one really great weekend. I have done it both ways. I prefer the first way.
  17. Jeffescortlx

    Jeffescortlx FEOA Member

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    :stick:




    I've had my share of 7psi turbo Escorts, it's a complete transformation.


    I do agree with this.
  18. theeskrat

    theeskrat Guest

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    Cool. Well I appreciate all the input. I'm defenitely thinking it over for when the snow stops falling.

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