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Discussion Starter #1
Jim (Piercemotorsports) has been kind enough to design, and produce a 4-point front lower tie bar for us. This design will stiffen the front subframe significantly more than a 2-point design. The price will be $185 + shipping and Tax. There is also the option to add a gusset at each corner for $20 extra. The first payment will be $100 and will be due when we have 5 people signed up. It will be payed directly to Jim. The final payment will be roughly $125 to $150 depending on your shipping cost, plus $20 extra if you want gussets.

Here is a photo.


And here are the specs
It will use 1 1/4" cups to bolt to the front control arm bolts and 1 1/4" cups that use the subframe bolt in back next to the rear control arm mounts. We'll use 1" x .120 wall DOM tubing in between the cups.

It has a 1/4" clearance at the trans crossmember and I'm going to need some help with measurements in the rear to clear a stock exhaust system---I don't currently have a car with a stock exhaust so we'll have to work it out with photo's and measurements.

EDIT:We have the clearance issues worked out!!!

We are looking to get at least 5 people signed up before production begins, but there will be no real limit to how many are made, as long as you are interested they will be produced.

PM me or reply to this thread. I will put you on the list, and will then get you the info when it's time to pay Jim and I will gather your shipping info for him.

The list goes as follows...
1:300ZXRB26DETT (1st payment in)
2:AtomicEGT
3:Woodsish (1st payment in)
4:AJAX
5:Honda Killer
...
10:Cody004
...

All right, for the first five on the list... First payment is due. You should either have or be getting soon, a PM with Jim's paypal and a bit more info, from me.

Everyone else, keep signing up as we can make these as long as there is interest in them!
 

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Yes thanks Cody and Jim. C'mon people, get in on this group buy and support someone that is making parts for our cars. There has got to be more then 3 of us that want these things............What happened to all the people wanting Mazdaracer tie bars? Here is an excellent alternative
 

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I'm pretty interested. Would there be any clearance issues with the SOHC oil pan?
 

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I don't think i'm going to make it into the group buy, but am definitely interested in one in the future.

Any chance of this thing working with a V6 swap?
 

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Yeeeahhh... that's what i'm worried about. Looks like more research is necessary. :)
 

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Drew the first payment is due when we have 5 so I can get started---you can send me a money order if you need to.

When this group buy is done---or when we get 10---if someone wants to bring me another subframe---I'll build bars for it providing we get enough people to share the cost...On another note the ID of the cups on these 4 point bars is 1 1/4", the OD is 1 1/2", wanted to make that clear---makes it easier to locate the bolt (remove and replace)/install. The cups in the front are as short as possible to clear the oil pan---there's nearly a 1/2" gap between the tube and the pan---the 1.9 cars shouldn't have any issues. If you have a 1.9 engine I could also angle the cup to provide more clearance if anyone is worried/knows something from past experience.
 

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ciento44-I was planning a V6 swap in the future as well. I have seen the underside of a MX3 V6 and it looks like there is plenty of oil pan clearance, and I cant imagine the engine being any different position when placed in the escort. Any body with a V6 swapped car care to comment?

nezwick- My experience from taking my control arms out before is that you will have to remove the bolts on 2 of your motor mounts and lift the engine up so you can even remove the bolt on the front of the control arm to install this bar. The 1.9 oil pan does not allow the bolt to come out at all unless you do this.
 

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Yeah, that's what I had to do when I installed the Corksport front tie bar I have now. I just didn't know if the cups would hit the oil pan or not. I guess I never had that problem because of the solid/filled mounts.

This is just another one of those things I'd have to budget for. It looks really nice and I'm sure it would help out a lot.
 

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300ZXRB26DETT said:
ciento44-I was planning a V6 swap in the future as well. I have seen the underside of a MX3 V6 and it looks like there is plenty of oil pan clearance, and I cant imagine the engine being any different position when placed in the escort. Any body with a V6 swapped car care to comment?

nezwick- My experience from taking my control arms out before is that you will have to remove the bolts on 2 of your motor mounts and lift the engine up so you can even remove the bolt on the front of the control arm to install this bar. The 1.9 oil pan does not allow the bolt to come out at all unless you do this.
Cool, thanks! So it looks like i need to just figure out oil pan dimension difference between the 1.8 litre v6 and the KLZE. :) If there is any, that is.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Jim, I'm going outside right now to measure clearances, I'll report back shortly for everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Alright Jim, here it is. To fit a 1.9 w/ stock exhaust we have a few requirements.

I'll start with the rear portion. We must have a total of 1 1/16" dip in the rear bar from the center of the mount point, this gives us about 1/16th" clearance from the stock exhaust right before the flex pipe.

The front will be the trickier part as we suspected. To begin, the exhaust sits 1/4" lower than the trans. cross member... But this is also to clear the heat shield on this section of pipe, that looks like it could be bent in about 1/4" if we would rather do that then sacrifice another 1/4" of ground clearance. That's my vote, at least, what do others think?

Secondly, and here is the major problem, we have exactly 1 5/8" clearance on the front passenger cup, from the mount point to the oil pan. we probably would need a half inch of clearance to prevent the oil pan from bashing the cup, so it's like 1 1/8" left for the cup. I dont see that working for you Jim, will it? How much would you angle the cup to help with clearance so I can measure how much that would help?

Another thought, You mentioned somewhere that Roodworks passenger mount raised the engine just a tad, that would help clear a little room if that's the case. Then a filled front mount would help the pan from jabbing the cup as well. Get back to me on the angled cup Jim and we'll go from there.
 

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I just measured the dip in the rear bar (turned the bar over on a flat surface and measured from the surface to bar) and we're good---got like 1 3/8" clearance---no problem.

The front cup is an 1 1/2" from the mounting surface and the bar is pressed up against the lip of the subframe---so the bar can't get any closer to the subgrame anyways. Looking from the front at the cup the bar comes off at the 3:30 to 4:00 position, so I can shave off the top back to probably an 1" without any worries---Check out the photo's and see if it makes sense Cody.

 
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