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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey i have a question i dont know much about escort performance but any info would help. Could you fit cosworth part into a mercury tracer (os escort for that matter) since they are the same car. and does cosworth have any parts for the 1.9 1991 engine. if not what kind of HP gains could i expect if i add a header exhaust and a air intake with a underdrive crank pulley. i am thnking of 10hp at the most, but would i loose any torque? any help would be great
 

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The cosworth is not the same car. UK Escorts and US Escorts are nothing a like.

Adding pieces and parts to your 1.9 won't help a whole lot, as the engine is meant to be an econobox car, not a race engine. You might get 10 hp, but you'll lose some torque if you free up the breathing. Or so I've been told about 1.9s depending on what you do to them.

You'd have a better chance at making power if you swapped in a 97 or so 2.0 SPI and start off with 110 hp over the 88 in the 1.9.
 

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Sleepa,

What kind of mods do you mean? There are a number of things that can be done, but I dont know how much they would actually help you out. You can check out www.escortfocus.com and also www.ctamotorsports.com for some parts for the SPI.

EscortFocus will also port your heads and MAF for you, which gets costly, but can help add horses. Also, there are things like performance cams and titanium springs and the whole works if you really want to get up there.

I know that you can also work with your ignition system by running performance wires and plugs, and an igniton box. Follow that with some custom programming of the ecu and you can make more power where you want.

In regards to your exhaust question, anything to make your exhaust flow better will help, but your stock manifold and catalytic converter are defintely going to be the biggest blockage in your system. You can buy a shorty header kit that works with the stock cat, or have someone custom system that involves headers and a universal cat, then just straight pipe it.

However, we do drive escorts, which arent really meant to be speed demons. So, all this stuff isnt really cheap. It could be worth it in gas savings if you commute lots, but otherwise its just for your enjoyment.

~Bug
 

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Well, the UK and the US scorts are quite different, but the basic 1.9L CVH motor is universal. The cosworth motor uses the same block and you can contact BAT (British American Transfer) about getting cosworth goodies like DOHC heads and turbo parts. The Cosworth had the engine mounted longitudinally for the AWD system, whereas all other FWD scorts have a transversely mounted engine. (tracer = scort in every way except for a few cosmetics as far as we're concerned, btw)

You may get 10hp out of the 1.9L with intake and exhaust, you may lose some torque, you may get increases across the powerband.. as with any other intake and exhaust mods, it depends on how the systems are tuned.

The SPI is the best solution because it's cheap, it's readily available, it's an easy swap, it has a larger displacement, it has a trick 2 stage intake manifold, and it's head flows much better than the 91-96 1.9L head.

Rather than cosworth, going with mazda swaps is a little more practical in the US since the mazda stuff is so readily available. K-series V6s (up to 200hp NA) and turbo BP (up to 220hp I think) JDM motors will bolt up.. although much more complicated than the SPI. Zetec motors (which, again, share the CVH's ford block design) will also bolt in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
actually it would benifit me if i could find the lightest engine that is also cheap that would fit this car that makes lots of hp NA ccause i want it for autox and roadcourse. after taking out everything not needed i hopt to save about 400-450lb and a na motor that would produce around 200hp would be great, but would i have to do a transmition swap? and what are some is the best motor for the most reasonable cost other than the 1.8 and 2.0motor?
 

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To perfectly honest, any swap you consider will be costly. Nothing in the world of engine performance comes cheaply. Once you have intake and exhaust the price goes up for smaller and smaller HP gains. Like any rule, the trend can be broken and once certain upgrades are done you can increase power cheaply...but still the sum of the parts never quite equals the whole.

Ex: Buy a nitrous kit, okay, but from a basic kit you can go to a bigger shot really inexpensively.

Ex: Go turbo, expensive, but once there you can tune up your boost level inexpensively.
 

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evolver said:
actually it would benifit me if i could find the lightest engine that is also cheap that would fit this car that makes lots of hp NA ccause i want it for autox and roadcourse. after taking out everything not needed i hopt to save about 400-450lb and a na motor that would produce around 200hp would be great, but would i have to do a transmition swap? and what are some is the best motor for the most reasonable cost other than the 1.8 and 2.0motor?
Well, I believe the CVH motors use a cast iron block, so the all-aluminum K series v6s may be the same or lighter in weight (not certain about this at all). I believe the BP motors would most definitely be lighter, but they're a pain to swap in for not much initial gain over an SPI.

What class are you aiming for in autocross? Is it SCCA? If you're talking engine swaps for that and you want to stay in Stock, STS, or Street Prepared, then the SPI is probably your best bet. If you swap into any of the other motors I'm afraid you may land yourself into a modified class. If you're talking about removing a lot of weight you may be heading into a mod class already.

Finding a mazda engined scort/tracer to trade your car in on may be the best bet if you want a BP motor.

The V-6s need everything under the hood from the MX-3 GS (including the crossmember). For the BP motors you'll need everything under the hood from a Protege or Escort GT (again, including the crossmember) The JDM motors are not cheap... I didn't mean to give that impression.

The Zetecs are kinda complicated to swap, but several folks have done it and are very pleased with the results. The SPI is similar to swapping B-series motors in a Honda civic :D

Like Blade said, that first step is a doosey (other than intake & exhaust mods)... but the tuning abilities may be more fruitful afterwards.
 

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My 2.0 SPI for my Pony was only $275 from the local J/Y, it only had 30k. That about as cheap as your gonna find. It only took me one day to swap. To turbo it was a little more money and time. The the end result it good, not much money spent, still on stock internals. Im in the low 15's for sure, probly more like 14's. Ton of fun :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
yep looks like im gonna make the spi engine swap, now 1 more question, will the spi engien bolt on to my 91 automatic transmition untill i want to turn it itno a manual? and exactly what parts will i need accept the engine from the 97 escort. Then i will be out motor hunting for escorts, which shouldent bee to hard since i live in the city where ford headquarters is located. the other question is if turbocharging is the only way for the spi, or is there a supercharger that you know of that would fit? thanx for your help guys
 

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evolver said:
yep looks like im gonna make the spi engine swap, now 1 more question, will the spi engien bolt on to my 91 automatic transmition untill i want to turn it itno a manual? and exactly what parts will i need accept the engine from the 97 escort. Then i will be out motor hunting for escorts, which shouldent bee to hard since i live in the city where ford headquarters is located. the other question is if turbocharging is the only way for the spi, or is there a supercharger that you know of that would fit? thanx for your help guys
Two "premade" turbo options:
US 84-85 1.6 GT/EXP
UK 1.6 RS Escort

Supercharer:
www.boosthead.com

Should take the average machanical person one full day to swap.
You will need:
A 97 2.0 SPI, a engine hoist, Jack, rachet-it-strap, a goods set of standard and metric tools, and a fuel line remover tool. Also get a repair manual, there only $20 and you should have one by now.

You will have to decide what to do with the secondaries butterflies in the intake manifold (SPI) since the 2nd gen PCM does not have a output to control them. When closed they help out with low end power, when open they add high end power. I don't suggest cutting them out. Leave the electric motor on the (IMRC) manifold and wire to a MSD window tach switch. Or a after market Tach with a shift light output terminals. (Use a relay to power the motor) Then just set the shift light to what ever RPM you want them to open at.
Red/Green wire is positive, Brown is ground, the other two you dont need. A 1 to 3 ohm @ 25 watt resister should be used inline with the motor. 1 ohm will take it about 1 sec to open, 3 ohm will take it about 3 second to open.

Now would be a good time to do the "motor mount mod", Have some window sealer ready.
Also have new Fuel Filter, exhaust manifold gasket, PVC inlet tube (only availble at Ford Dealer) and termostat gaskets aready.

The only differnce from a 91-95 OBD1 to a 96 OBD2 is that throttle cable (manual trannys) and TPS. It's a direct plug in for 96's.
91-95 TB (throttle bodys) have the "key's " for the TPS (throttle position sensor) at a 45º angle off when compared to 96,97 and up (OBD2).
You will need to use the 97 TPS, and plug. Wire color codes are the same. You will need about 4" of the 97 wiring harness to exstend it.

Parts that must be used:
Reuse the 1.9 computer, wiring harness, fuel pump, MAF, IAC valve, O2 sensor, the entire termostat housing with the ECT and temp sender.

Sensor's that are the same:
Oil presure, cam pos. and crank pos.

The 91-96 injectors are longer than the 97+, but the flow size, impedance and plug are all compatible with the each other, so just to use the 97 injectors with your second gen.
After market injectors are the longer style like the 91-96, you will need to slot out the mounting holes on the 97 fuel rail to fit the longer injectors.
The 91-96 fuel rail will need a lot of modifactions to fit the 97, it might be easyer to modify a 98+ rail by adding a return line. (98+ Escorts have no returnline or FPR)
But if all posible, just use a 97 rail, FPR and injectors, it's compatible to the 91-96 system with out modifactions.

All 2nd Gen Trannys auto or manual, will bolt up to 2.0.

Must use 91-96 flywheel and clutch, 97-up 2.0 will NOT work.

EGR vaires with year, you may or may not beable to bend the EGR hose to make it fit, I just completely removed the EGR valve and tube, just make sure to seal up any vacume leaks on the intake manifold.
Ex mani's are differnt from 91-96 to 97, you may want to reuse the manifold.
Oil pans are a little differnt from 91-96, either will work.

Must use 91-96 PVC tube.

Use all 91-96 accessories and bracket: Starter, Alternator.

Power steering, A/C Compressor can be left in car w/bracket during the swap.

Start by:
Take out/off- Hood, Radiator, Alternator, Starter, exhaust manifold (or header), Accessory bracket (push to front,can leave power steering pump and compressor line hooked up)

No need to pull tranny if you have a manual. Remove crank pulley, and heater core hose (unless auto). Hook up hoist before unbolting motor mounts or unbolting motor from tranny to not put any stress on main shaft. Then you will have to completely remove the passengers side motor mount. Then use a rachet-it-strap to hold the tranny to the drivers side. Then remove the front and side tranny mounts. Next unbolt motor from tranny. Then push the motor apart from the tranny.
This will give you enough room to remove the motor with clutch.
Next reassemble.
The most frustrating part of the entire swap is getting the tranny's main shaft and the clutch's clutch disc's splines to line up while putting the tranny and motor together, just take your time and move the crank with a wrench to help line things up. Make sure to use the clutch disc alimnment tool while assembling the clutch.

Note: Automatic Transmissions do not need to unbolt the tranny mounts. Just pull off the plate on the bottom side of the oil pan to unbolt the torque converter. Motor will then remove.

Vacume lines:
Unscrew the vacuum line "tree" distributor from the 91-96 intake manifold. Make a coupler from a short piece of hose to connect it to the drivers side vacuum port. Then connect the brake booster hose, PCV, FPR hose, EGR if you have it,(use hoses from 91-96). On the passenger side port, plug in the cruse control. (Vacuum lines will vary w/ year.)

Fuel lines are a direct fit, just need to unclip to split them up,
one on each side.

You will have a left over bolt, one that holds the motor to the tranny. For some reason the bottom rear hole is off. But no problem you will still have like 6 or so holding them together. If your a perfectionist than just swap oil pans, than all bolts will line up.

I have put about 10,000 mi on since the swap, no problems of any kind, It runs a perfect A/F ratio.
Good Luck, It easy if your prepared.
The power band from the SPI is much wider than the 1.9.
Gas mileage is just as good as the 1.9.
 
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