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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Cannot seem to find the replacement line that comes off of the PCV valve.
Did many searches and cannot locate, even through the Ford parts web site. Car was running rough, found the hose was collapsed from the vacuum, this hose was someones band aid. They outer sleeved the broken hard plastic line from the PCV valve to the canister with this flimsy hose. Anyone know where I can get this plastic line with the proper elbows (current PCV valve has no elbow) or should I just get some vacuum hose (that will not collapse) to replace this line?
 

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www.teamzx2.com

Go to the 'Problems' section. In there you will find a 'Common Problems' post with part numbers and info on how to fix the PCV line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the link, however is does not seem to describe what I am seeing under the hood. The link describes the PCV valve as having two ends that go into hoses. Unless my vehicle is all fudged up, I have a nipple at the front right on the engine with a hose going around the right side of the engine and around the back of it into an elbow into what looks to be a canister. Is this saying that there should be valve in line, I thought the nipple on the engine was the PCV valve. Shows how stupid I am. Anyone have an actual picture or diagram of how this is supposed to look?
 

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The PCV valve is just below the thermostat housing. It goes around the right side (just above the transmission) of the engine into the nipple on the intake manni that faces the block. There is no canister. The only canister I can think of under the hood is the EVAP canister on the firewall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK, now I'm even more confused. I searched around for a picture of an engine that has the proper elbow on the hose barb a the front right of the engine. What is this elbow and hose for, I thought it was the PCV valve, on my vehicle the hose goes to a canister on the fire wall. See red arrow in this picture, again this is not my engine but identical to what the set up is supposed to be.
 

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That arrow is pointing to the PCV valve. It is possible that a previous owner modified your PCV system or it is just plain hooked up wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the help ZX2Fast. I got the proper parts (new PCV & line) from the local Ford dealership and ripped out the pieces of hose and plastic tubing that were connecting the PCV and intake. After a much closer look, there was no canister, jut the intake and intake nipple as you mentioned. I just did not know what I was seeing (no auto mechanic ability in my blood). At least now it looks normal and the car does not try to stall or sputter and the whistling noise is gone.
Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
New hose assembly (hose, protective wrap, 2 elbows) & new PCV came to $30.

edit: Well today the car is back to running semi rough, trying to stall out at stops. Upon acceleration the power is weak & very hesitant then will lurch and take off. And the P1131 code is back. I have cleaned the MAF and put in a new air filter, no change.
 

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P1131 is a hateful code. A P0171: sensor indicates lean, is clearly a good sensor reporting an issue. P1131, however, can be either a good sensor reporting lean or a bad sensor. But, with the driving issues you have, I'm leaning towards a good sensor reporting a lean condition. Now, this problem can also be casued by faulty readings from the MAF. I had a MAF go bad on me once and I couldn't drive the car. I figured out it was the MAF by unplugging the MAF electrical connector. While the car didn't drive perfect, it drove well enough to take it around town. Try disconnecting the MAF to see if it runs much better.

Also, a lean condition can be caused by poor fuel delivery. Either a weak fuel pump, stuck or clogged fuel injector, or a clogged fuel filter. Fuel filters should be replaced every two years.

If the car idles really rough, it would be easy to pinpoint a fuel injector issue. But, I'm not going to bother typing all of that out unless your car idles really rough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'll try the MAF disconnect this week. The engine does not idle rough, the car has the classic ZX2 vibration at idle. The idle seems to fluctuate (decrease) at a stop, goes from normal idle to sputter, but not all the time. Same for acceleration, sometimes it takes off like a rocket, sometimes in sputters like it is about to stall, then takes off. As for the fuel filter, it probably has never been changed. This car sat a long while before I bought it. A grandma had it for most of its life then the son took it away after she started to scrape things with it. He put 1,000 miles on it in a year and a half. Car has many electrical issues with the gauges, another story. Car was not well maintained (engine wise) as far as I can tell.
 

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The electrical issues can all stem from a poor negative box ground. On the negative terminal is a black box that has several of the CCRM grounds. Make sure that there is no corrosion between the terminal and box.
 
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