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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Used to have really wired problem. Sometimes when you drive in 2-3k range especially on 5th gear (110km/h) It´s skips or just feels like drop of power. When I pass 3k RPM power returns. It doesn´t happend all the time. Sometimes. Last time I replaced O2 sensor, Temp sensor and coil (Used to have Accel) And problem went away. Now since about month on MSD coil the problem retured. I drove about a month and half on accel coil and it went bad. Now MSD?.... Is someone knows what is the real problem plz help.
 

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Hey Alex,
Sounds like it could be a clutch slipping actually, but since you fixed it for awhile it probably isn´t it.

Im possibly thinking its your fuel injection system. Your injectors, fuel filter, pump...etc. might be clogging with that pressure in the system, once you rev over that the pressure is strong enough to break it free. Free from what is the question ? I´m thinking sediment possibly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey Blade.
Def. not a clutch. I used to have clutch problem when I burned my last one. def not that. It´s like a hmmm. Ok you launch. 1st. all the way to 5th. For example on highway. And You drive on 2.5k RPM. Then I just want to accelerate but It doesn´t go anywhere. You can press the gas pedal right to the floor nothing will happend. But if you open TB just a little bit it will slowelly accelerate to 3k RPM and then it breaks free. One of the injectors is really laud. Filter is replaced 2 months ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think I solve the problem. My Filter was super dirty. I cleaned it and put it back. Also I injected a 100ml of Alcohol into the engine to clean it. I took it for a ride and everything was fine. I´ll adjust my TBPS properly with voltmeter tomorrow. Thanx
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nopes...same thing:(. It´s not a coil cuz I tried stock coil and it does the same thing. Not a cables. I just wonder how to adjust TPS properly. What voltages have to be there. What resistance. Which cables I have to connect to...etc.?
 

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I had almost the exact same thing happening to mine. Just curious is there a difference from when you first start it up to the time it is warmed up? in other words does it get worse(or better) once it´s warmed up? This can help to eliminate some things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Defenatly after it warms up. I have to drive for about 5 miles before it start happening. Again it´s not all the time.
 

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I would try the tfi go to a bone yard(unless you have one)or even call around to different auto parts stores and find a cheapy.I had a slight lag in power that turned into a stumble that turned into a dead car on the side of the road.Gave it a tune up and it stopped for a while then it came back.since I replaced the tfi I have had no problems and I drive back and fourth over the cascades like twice a day 5 or six days a week.
 

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alright this sounds a little out of place but change your plug wires. I put new ones on and still had the problem. Lived with it for about 6 months. one day I swapped wires with a friend for some troubleshooting and the problem was solved. Lesson is new wires can be bad too. sound wierd but those long boot style plugs are not all that consistant and are easy to ruin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I just run full diagnostic on the car.
KOEO test passed with 111(no errors) code. KOER test is passed with 111 (no errors) code cylinder balance is 9(no errors). Tunned Idle and TPS. Checked spark plugs they are in exelent condition. Coil pack is 2 months old. All sensors are in range except temperature sensor. When engine is just started it showes "out of range". (This thing is responsible for Timing advance) Sensor still under warranty so I´ll replace it tomorrow. Also I will check my timing tomorrow as well. It could be off. Will see how it´ll be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Go figure It was a ECT. Looks like Part Source getting some cheap ass plastic replacment ECT units.(Original are Bronze ones ) I had one exta heat sensor core so I pulled one from there. Car works fine now. I´m thinking to swap full 91 heat sensor core cuz it has 3 sensors and 3rd one is just a thermo relay for a fan. Which will eleminate my problem overheating in city.
 

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The TFI is a distributor mounted ignition module. If you have the distributorless ignition system you don´t have a TFI module. My Car doese the exact same thing though. I will punch it, and it will barely accelerate untill it passes 3 grand. I put a new Ignition module, and an MSD box (Not just the coil, but the actual MSD ignition 6AL box) And it seemed to help at first, but after a few days it came back. I doubt it is the TPS, since it happenens when it is floored, but it does eventually catch up to itself. If this were to happen an a carburated car you would check the accelerator pump, and the secondary jets to make sure you weren´t getting too lean or rich when you first step into it. But since our cars are Fuel injected there isn´t much we can do to change the Wide Open Throttle fuel map.
And as far as adjusting the TPS goes, I´m pretty sure the Escorts are non adjustable. Easy fix with a drill though. just lengthen the two mounting holes, and you will be able to adjust it. To check it find the signal return wire (There should be 3 wires, ground, signal, signal return or signal reference) The signal wire should be around 5v, and the return wire should be just under 1v. The higher the return voltage the wider the computer thinks the throttle is. Try setting it to around .9-.98v. If you go to high the engine will run rich at part throttle, but if you go too low the computer won´t know when you are wide open.
 

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My Escort has a problem in that when it´s cold and i take off sometimes it won´t let me rev past 2500 RPM, and then suddenly it lunges forward... it sometimes it does this over and over, which pisses me off. Also, I THINK i know why there´s no power under 3k rpm. I´m pretty sure it´s just because the 1.8L EGTs have two intake valves (runners) for each cylinder, EGTs are made for High RPM running. I come to this conclusion for basically 3 reasons, 1. two intake valves per cylinder, 2. you can usually feel that power isn´t really generated until 3000-3500 rpm. (max torque at 4500, and max HP at 6500) and 3. i was just reading in the Haynes Repair manual that 2nd gen EGTs are equipped with VICS, or Variable Inertia Charge System, which at 5000 rpm opens 4 butterfly valves in the intake runners to allow more air to flow, allowing for a broader torque band and also allowing for the 7k Redline. I´ve had this car since last november and i´m STILL learning of the little stuff like this. i love this car.

92 Red EGT
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I finally fixed all my lags. Still far from perfect but I´m getting there. Turns out to be that my computer was almost dead. So I swapped MAF from 94 together with computer. And most of my problems went away including overheating. Now fan starts just pass the middle of the gage. Only problem with that is that my doesn´t have ERG. and ERG voltage below minimum. But Car runs 100 times better. Even better then my old reprogrammed computer. Looks like it was really dead.
 

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i had a similar problem with my 88 egt. It turned out the vane air meter and the throttle position sensor was bad. at the same time, i had my idle control motor and my intake manifold gasket replaced, but i dont think those caused the problem.
 

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James,
You´ll find the little BP engines in our EGT´s are awesome from an engineering standpoint. Sometimes I wish I was like a honda and had a MAP sensor or little things like that, but for what we have its quite nice.
The little engineering differences, along with the quality that has gone into them is what makes the drastic differences when the motor is under load. I´d like to see a honda B18C hold 12lbs of boost on stock internals.
 
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