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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, I´m changing the oil in my 1.9L sefi LX engine this weekend, and I don´t know what oil to buy.

I´ve been told that my best bet for the freezing cold upstate NY winters is Mobil-1 synthetic 5w-30 oil.

Here´s what I look for in oil:

  • 1.Smooth, powerful operation
    2.Low friction/better efficiency
    3.Longevity of engine
    4.Good bang for the buck
    5.High flash point (doesn´t burn off eaisly, lasts long)

Could somebody tell me:

1.What does the "3w-50" code mean? What do the numbers stand for?

2.What oil filter should I buy? What should I look for?

3.Do I need to "flush out" my oil pan with some detergent when switching to synthetic? My car has 127K miles on it.


thanks.
 

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Hey bro, how´s it going? I just switched to Castrol Part Syn. 5-30W in my 1st Gen LX. I was using Havoline but I wanted to switch brands and to a prt. syn. oil. I didn´t use any kind of flushing chemical for the switch, I just drained my oil as normal, put a new Motorcraft oil filter (FL400s) on, and added four quarts of Castrol Prt. Syn. to my engine. From what I have heard through the grapevine about when to use prt. syn. or full synthetic is when the engine has been worn in real good..maybe a full 3000 miles on a new car before switching over...but I think most newer cars already have the syn. or part syn. oil installed at the factory/dealer. My car has 150,000 miles on it so I knew the engine was well worn in.
I keep my oil changed every 3000 miles and my oil stays very clean until the next oil change...can´t argue with that. As for the filter, like I mentioned above, I use a Motorcraft filter and have been using them since I first got the car..no problems at all. Most of my family have Ford vehicles and use Motorcraft so thats what I´ve been around for as long as I can remember. I heard Fram is good, I use that in my g/f´s Cavy..sorry James.
Not my choice of car either but its her car. I told her to get a Scort.
The Mobil 1 Oil is good but expensive as hell. Like 5.00 a qt. here compared to 2.25 a qt. for Castrol Syn. I would use what ever oil filter your comfortable with and switch to a synthetic oil you feel good with and can afford. I just wanted you know what I use. Hope this helps ya some.
 

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I´ve been running Castrol gtx 5w 30 for the winter and gtx 10w 30 for summer. I change the oil every 3000 to 4000 km. Also I go with the Castrol oil filter
.... I change the oil frequently as I enjoy shifting at 6000+ RMPS


If you had a Porsche then synthetic I could understand, but for a escort ? if you change it regularly you should have a problem.


1.8L Tracer LTS, 110K and still ticking.
 

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Well oil is oil, and no oil is no oil....as long as you have oil and change it regularly things will be good.

However I go with the hype, I´ve been running synthetic oil for a long time. I used to run nothing but Redline products, but due to the hole in my pocket I can´t anymore. I´m now running Mobil 1 15-50.

I think if you want to go with a synthetic oil 5w30 is a good choice. Most people dont know this but Mobil 1 doesn´t coke up. So if you just want to run great oil naturally aspirated or you´re Turbo´d...Mobil 1 is awesome stuff.

Okay the numbers and what they mean:

when you see 5w30 it means its a blended oil. It will have different properties when heat is applied. The first number (the lower one) is the cold vicosity blend. So at its coldest point you´ll have a 5 weight oil, but under heat it will expand to a 30 weight. 30 weight is right for an escort.

summer going to a 10w30 means its cold temp is more viscous, that´s okay because its usually warmer in the summer, unless you live in Minnessota or probably you peeps in Canada where it only actually doesn´t snow for like 2 months and stays warm for like a month of it.

Filters.... Filters are Filters. If you think you may have too much junk in your oil, run a really fine filter (like a K&N) for an oil change. Me personally, I use fram filters just because it has the cool grip thing so when I do my own oil I can just unscrew it without needed any tools.
 

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Mobile 1 is the way to go. unlike Castrol Syntec, Mobile is a true "Synthetic Oil". great stuff I put 265,000 miles on a Saturn with mobile the whole way. never had any problem with the engine. As far as filters go, my personal favorite is Bosch. and on the 1.8 use the v-6 probe filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%>[TR][TD]Quote:

[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]
DreamLand wrote:
If you had a Porsche then synthetic I could understand, but for a escort ?
[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]

[/TD][/TR][/TABLE]

I think you´ve got it confused...


Hey Blade:
What do you mean, "mobil 1 doesn´t coke up"?

I don´t have any jacks (well the tire jack, but there´s no way I´m getting under a half ton block of metal held up by a ford tinkertoy contraption) and I think I may have to bring it in to get the oil changed. However, I will ask the mechanic to put in the oil I give him (I think I´ll go with mobil 5w-30.)

Should I replace my transmission fluid? Does tranny fluid ever go "bad"?
 

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I can respond to the synthetic question:

Why not run synthetic? What´s the difference between a Porsche and an Escort ?

Like I said before I bought into the ´hype´ back before I was turbocharged. What I´ve noticed personally about synthetic is it doesn´t look so dirty after the same amount of mileage as non-synthetic. I had reason to convince myself it was more durable and didn´t break down as much under load and heat. I admit I hit about one shift over 6100rpms every time I drive anywhere...I dont exactly push the car to redline every time, but enough that I wanted something to help deal with the extreme heat a little more. And I´m single so gf money = escort money....I can afford to spend the few extra bucks for synthetic.

Coke up, was the question. Well in the turbo world you´re supposed to let your car cool down everytime you drive. Do to the insane temperatures that a bearing in a turbo can reach, when you suddenly shut off the motor you stop the oil flow. The bearing if hot enough can expand if not kept cool, so if it expands enough you´ve just lost your turbo efficiency or even a turbo completely. Most turbo owners get turbotimers that keep they´re cars running long enough to let it cool even though they´ve pulled the key. Well in relation to oil. When oil gets too hot it breaks down. If you take like the cheap Spectrum Plus oil Sears sells and expose it to the insanely hot temperatures that the turbo bearing can go through the oil breaks down into a gunky powder...kinda carbon like. Anyhow, this stuff will clog the oil line to and from the turbo...if the line is cut you start running the turbo with no oil (BAD, VERY BAD). Kinda like a fat guy keeling over from a Mc D´s quarter pounder with cheese. The lines get clogged and the important stuff doesn´t get through.

Mobil 1 being synthetic actually is a little more resistant to breaking down at high temps but isn´t impervious. But when it doesn´t it breaks down into liquids and gases....not gunk.
Redline is one of the better oils for temps and breakdown, but the stuff is like 9bucks a quart if your lucky to find it for that.

I run synthetic because of the turbo...like I said originally, oil is oil...changing it often makes the difference, not the brand or type. But I treat my car harsh sometimes, so I try to help the most I can.
 

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Ok I usually use Quaker State 5w-30 in the winter and if i remember right i switch between 5w-30 and 10w-30 in the summer, mostly because i forget what I get from each pour in to the next...
Here´s a slight explanation of how automotive oil is classified:

The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) Viscosity Grade is a system based on viscosity measures taken from a variety of tests. This system established eleven distinct motor oil viscosity classifications or grades: SAE0W, SAE5W, SAE10W, SAE15W, SAE20W, SAE25W, SAE20, SAE30, SAE40, SAE50 and SAE60. These are known as single grade or single viscosity oils.

These grades correspond to specific ranges that the particular oil falls into. The "W" in the classification indicates that the grade is suitable for use in cold temperatures. (You can think of the "W" as standing for "Winter".) The classifications increase numerically, allowing you to tell the difference between them and what this difference means. Basically, the lower the number, the lower the temperature at which the oil can be used for safe and effective protection. The higher the number, the better protection offered for high heat and high load situations.

Single grade oils have a limited range of protection and so have a limited number of uses. In order to increase an oil's usefulness, it must be able to meet the requirements of two or more classifications. Multi-grade or Multi-viscosity oils effectively meet the viscosity requirements of two or more classifications. Examples of multi-viscosity oils are SAE 5W-30, SAE 10W-30, SAE 15W-40, and SAE 20W-50. The number with a "W" focuses on an oil's properties at low temperatures. The number without a "W" characterizes properties at high temperatures. A multi-viscosity or multi-grade oil, e.g. 10W-30 meets the 10W criteria when cold and the 30 criteria once hot. SAE 5W-30 and SAE 10W-30 are widely used because under all but extremely hot or cold conditions, they are light enough for easy engine cranking at low temperatures, and heavy enough to protect satisfactorily at high temperatures.

voila there you go.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
wewt! thanks a lot!
I asked my friend and he has a jack, so I be changin my oil this weekend!

Does a wal-mart sell filters?
Whats a decent price for a quart of Mobil-1 5w-30? If I cant find mobil, what should I buy?
 

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Don´t go to walmart to get auto stuff, go to an Auto Zone or Pep Boys or a Hires...some place that has to do with automotive supplies, get 4 quarts of Mobil one or Quakerstate (whichever you wish) and a Filter. It shouldn´t cost you more than 10 bucks. It´s like $1.69 to $2.30 american for each quart and 2 to 4 bucks for a filter.
 

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Good explanation James, Although I thought I had that simplified a little bit.

Anyhow, I dissagree walmart is a fine place to buy oil (they sometimes have GREAT deals). And once again, bottled oil is bottled oil, is there a difference who the vender is, unless its price.

Same thing too...Mobil 1 is a fully synthetic oil, you will pay more for it. I pay about $4.99 a quart here in AZ. The filter for the GT (the fram one I was telling you about) is like another 4.99, so 4 quarts of oil plus a filter runs about $26

I know that seems steep but its because you want synthetic oil. If you´re not going to run synthetic oil, go to a Sears from time to time...I´ve actually seen Spectrum Plus oil at work go on sale for $0.57 a quart. 12 Quarts for $7 isn´t bad.
 

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I guess I´d just rather go to a store that is basically "specializing" in what I want. I go to Autozone to buy car products, I go to Walmart to buy groceries, and I go to Best Buy to buy electronics. Thats just me though. Blade´s right, go where ever ya want to buy your oil...it´s not up to me.
 

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Ya might want to check out the article "How to change your oil." Seems to offer some good pointers on how-to, but it is talkin bout a 1.8L GT engine I think. Anyway go to "Topics" and it´s under "Maintenance"
Have fun!.
 

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Honestly when changing oil you should know how hard to torque the drain nut, and know exactly how much oil...blah blah blah.

My method, turn it till its tight, and if its a safety item, turn it some more. Fill it till its full. And assume all numbers are conservative suggestions
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Kewl guys, thanks a ton for the help.
So I will need 4 quarts for the whole job, right? Let me see if I have the order of events right:
  • 1. Jack up car
    2.Uncrew "engine oil" cap on top of engine
    3.Unscrew oil pan nut
    4.Wait for oil to drain into oil catcher thingy (I can buy a catcher pan at an auto parts store, right? what should I do with the oil when I´m done?)
    5.Uncrew oil filter (chuck oil filter in trash?)
    6.Put oil in new oil filter (takes about a quart, right?)
    7.Put a little oil on the new oil filter seal
    8.Screw in new oil filter, screw in a little past "snug"
    9.Put new oil into the "engine oil" cap on the valve cover at the top of the engine
    10.Check level of oil using the dipstick until it´s at the top of the hashed line "full"

Is this right?
How do I remove the old oil filter (I think it´s a motocraft- I can´t see the label) without the oil filter tool thing?
Should I buy a fram filter like blade so I can screw in the new one with my hands?

_________________


[ Edited by siragan On Date 12-05-2002 ]
 

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Yeah your procedures are just about right.

Car up first

oil cap on valvecover

break nut loose, drain oil. Keep a rag handy, used oil isn´t good for your skin, so wipe off what spills.

buy one of the oil drain panes that you can seal, because you can take the whole thing back to an autoparts store to recycle the oil. Whatever you do dont throw the oil out, its bad for the environment. Same thing with your filter, take it back with you. Some parts stores will take used filters, if not chuck it.

Take the filter off. You can buy a tool to take it off...I just muscled it the first time. You can use a rag to get a little extra grip.

Put a new filter on, with oil on the seal and a little inside of it too.

REMEMBER: put the nut back on the oil pan before pouring new oil in. I had a friend loose 8qts of oil in his dodge pickup because he forgot.


Pour oil in through top of motor. 4qts sounds about right for the 1.9L and I know its right for the 1.8L.

Put the cap back on.

With oil in the motor start the motor for just a few seconds, then pull the dipstick and check your oil level.

Since you have the up, look underneath for possible leaks, broken hoses, CV boots, rack and pinion and halfshafts. Look at the tierod ends and balljoints. Make sure everything looks "normal"

Good time to check all your fluids, window wiper fluid, Power steering, coolant, blah blah blah, remember to check for the blinker fluid (like I tell all the customers at Sears that we´re looking under the hood for
)

And since you should take your used oil to be recycled go enjoy a drive
 

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Discussion Starter #17
What are the rack pinions and halfshafts? I´ve never heard of those...

And should I purchase exactly 4 quarts of oil, or should I buy 5 to be safe?

Do you think I´ll notice a difference in the way the escort drives at all?
Cause all the guys here I´ve asked (all middle aged ******* guys who drive chevy pickups- LOL) say that synthetic is a huge waste of money.
Well I took that with a grain of salt, and I want to try it for myself... the only reason why synthetic would be better (that I can see) is at high rpms, when oil starts to burn and form carbon deposits. I drive my lx wagon harder than anybody I´ve ever seen drive a wagon
and I´m often at the high rnd of the rpms of the engine when I´m tearassing through town.

Anyway, that blinker fluid was a joke... right?
 

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i run valvoline 10w-30 full synthetic motor oil and full synthetic automatic transmission fluid on my manual trans mission. works like a charm
 

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The rack and pinion are your steering gears. The pinion is a round gear which turns with the steering wheel. It meshes with the pinion, which is a flat gear, like gear teeth along the top of a flat plate. As the pinion turns from your steering wheel input, the rack moves from side to side, connected to the wheels by the tierod. Btw have heard that the steering rack sometimes gets loose on scorts, so check for this once you locate it.
The halfshafts are basically mini driveshafts which connect your transaxle (transmission) to each front wheel. Each has a CV joint, kind of a coupling, enclosed in a CV boot, a flexible rubbery part to keep the dirt out of the joint. Make sure these aren´t cracked or broken too.
I´d get 5 quarts if I were you. May take a smidgen more than 4 quarts to fill it, and you also made need to add oil later.
Hope this helps ya!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
w00tw00t! thanks guys, I think I´m finally ready!

Erm...
I´m wondering about my tranny fluid. Does this stuff ever go bad? Maybe I should replace that since I´m gonna be under there anyways.

Also, since we were talking about steering...
I noticed that recently, my steering wheel seems to be squeaking a little when I turn. It´s like something is rubbing inbetween the wheel and the steering column. Has anyone here had this problem?
 
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