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not necessarily replying to your specific response. this thread is from 2019, just adding information. also, 'synthetic' can mean a dozen things.
Well, all I can say is I go with what works. Ran my Volvo 240 Turbo car up to over 400,000 miles and then took my last ZX2 to 328,000 miles. Basically I put over 400,000 miles on those two cars alone and I plan on taking this one as far as it will go. Full synthetic in both of those cars. And yes there are different formulations of "full synthetic" but either way it still offers much better protection than regular motor oil. I run a 10,000 mile oil filter and do 10,000 mile oil changes as well. My old car only ended up in the junkyard because I didn't want to spend the money on a transmission change, a clutch job and a timing belt job. Otherwise I would still be driving it today...
 

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Owned that last ZX2 for about 7 years and it always had that tick on startup... Not a big deal as it goes away quickly...
 

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And yes there are different formulations of "full synthetic" but either way it still offers much better protection than regular motor oil.
all oils, with the exception to redline and other ester based oils are regular dino poop motor oil. they all come from the same tier 3 base stocks. the benefit of 'synthetics' vs 'conventional' is that syn oils have mostly equally sized particles that 'flow' easier with less kenematic resistance.. castrol for example uses the term 'synthetic' to mean 'anything that is the target of a specific reaction'.. basically what that means is they take the T3 base stocks and hydraulically force it through a molecular screen that breaks up the particles into mostly equal sizes, boom, now its called synthetic. they then dump an additive package on it and mark it up 70%... capitalism at its finest.. that was the debate in the 90s where syn oils were known to 'cause' excessive leaking, because the particles are smaller.
 

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all oils, with the exception to redline and other ester based oils are regular dino poop motor oil. they all come from the same tier 3 base stocks. the benefit of 'synthetics' vs 'conventional' is that syn oils have mostly equally sized particles that 'flow' easier with less kenematic resistance.. castrol for example uses the term 'synthetic' to mean 'anything that is the target of a specific reaction'.. basically what that means is they take the T3 base stocks and hydraulically force it through a molecular screen that breaks up the particles into mostly equal sizes, boom, now its called synthetic. they then dump an additive package on it and mark it up 70%... capitalism at its finest.. that was the debate in the 90s where syn oils were known to 'cause' excessive leaking, because the particles are smaller.
I really never bought into that garbage that if you put synthetic into an older car it will immediately leak. That is utter nonsense. Yes, if you already have a leak then synthetic oil will probably leak even more. But I now have owned 3 different cars that ran "full synthetic" and all of them did just fine with it. No excessive leaking at all. Put probably 225K on the Volvo 240 Turbo. That one you definitely wanted to run full synthetic. And my last ZX2, which I put about 206,000 miles on did great on the full synthetic as well. And I do 10,000 mile oil changes while running a 10,000 mile filter. Oil never gets all that dirty either. I actually did the last oil change at about the 9,000 mile mark... I don't know the specifics about full synthetic oil and where it comes from and how it is made but I do know that it protects and engine quite well and yes it flows easy... Ran the Volvo up to 400,000 miles on the stuff and would have taken the last ZX2 to 400,000 as well but it needed a clutch, tranny and timing belt so I took it to the junkyard instead and bought another ZX2.
 

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And frankly... these days full synthetic can be had for the same price as dino oil depending on the brand. And I do get that all full synthetic oils are not the same...
 

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Just wanted to update on my experience running the mix of sythetic oil that I run. And that mix is one quart of Castrol Edge 5W-30 and 3 and half quarts of Supertech Full Synthetic 10W-30. It is currently -4 degrees here this morning. I brushed all of the snow off of the car and then fired it up. Started up great and there was really no excessive valve tick. It warmed up nicely and drove great. So I will be using this combination for the time being. It seems to work well in all conditions.
 

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Valvoline full syn made my valvetrain sound like a rock crusher. Half a bottle of royal purple quieted it right down. I got my money back, after employee discount lmao. The reaction when my valves went quiet was priceless.

my brother in law ran castrol syn in his audi. He just got a brand new camshaft......

I use Mobil 1 or rotella in everything.
 

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How about using Motul brand?
 

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How about using Motul brand?
Motul is pretty hard to find in the states, I wouldn't go out of my way to get it.
 
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