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Discussion Starter #1
This 1995 EGT 5 speed 1.8L used to be a daily driver. Was more or less parked after 1000km with new rubber and Timing Belt in 2007. Drove for 1 day in 2008 only to have it die while undergoing dependability trials.

During it's dying hours it would stop but then a little while later I would crank it over and it would start again. Repeating that scenario it finally just would not start ever again.

I've since started fixing other cosmetic body damage and have recently started to take an interest in getting this car up and running again as it was fun to drive...

Therefore I started by diagnosing a no fuel pump condition and now with a new fuel pump I have have fuel being delivered but my plugs quickly become fouled and wet because I have no spark. My #3 plug is not fouled but white so I believe there is a connection on the fuel rail that needs inspecting but I digress because that is not the cause of the no start.

When attaching a metal object to the coil wire or spark wire there is no spark. Tried to remedy that yesterday by visiting the pick n' pull where I obtained a new coil, caged thing in upper right by firewall and the sensor behind the previous caged module. I picked up the entire interior fuse box assembly as well but didn't install. Also picked up a new 4" wire bolt on 2cm x 1cm square block thing that is directly under my coil (Yes, now I know the ignition module is directly under that and hard to remove without stripping the two Phillips screws) and installed it. New/old relays under the hood fusebox.

Failed epically to procure my ignition module for lack of knowing the location but will obtain that today and replace to see if it aid$ in creating spark. Will also obtain a different alternator as I am most suspicious of the old one troubleshooting considered.

Will be undergoing timing belt training as well later today and even though the cam turns when viewed through the 710 cap it is still may have skipped or sheared. Would that result it total loss of spark though?

I'll scavenge around to see if there is a correct distributor I can utilize. On that note. With my trouble light there is:

1] Current to the distributor.
2] Current to the coil.
3] Current to the alternator.
4] Current to the #1 node on the fuel rail.

Some questions over and above the ones asked already but I'll repost those from above for clarity:

1] Would a slipped timing belt result in no spark?
2] Where exactly is the VAF sensor?
3] What does the VAF sensor look like?
4] Where is the electrical connection to the VAF if as I believe it is right after the air filter in a square box attached to my air intake hose and would a bad VAF sensor cause a no spark condition?
5] Where is the ECU located - under the dash in the middle?
6] Would a bad clutch switch cause a no spark condition - As in I put my foot down on the clutch and the starter engages without the ignition switch being on?
7] Would a bad ignition switch cause a no spark condition - As in I can turn the key to on and remove the key at will?
8] Would a bad battery cause a no spark condition?
9] Are there any other modules I should obtain while I'm at Pick N' Pull?

I'm planning on grabbing new front seats and carpet as well. Also I seem to have a hard time removing the back bumper but haven't beat on it in a year or so - any tricks to that one? My shopping list:

1] Seats
2] Carpet
3] Clutch Switch
4] Distributor
5] Alternator
6] Ignition Module
7] Ignition Switch (have to get it keyed)
8] Rear Bumper

Will also be performing a compression check on it later today. Busy Busy. I used to pull the 15amp engine fuse inside for theft prevention - There is current to it as well.

Bumped up here instead. The new battery that I installed before the dependability trial last year was completely empty of liquid. I filled all 6 compartments with distilled H20.
 

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Yeah you found the vaf. If the car cranks over then the ignition switch should be fine. You have fuel, and once you perform the compression test after the timing belt you will know whether you have good compression. It does sound like a no spark condition to me though. I am not very familiar with the gt's 1.8L so hopefully someone that does will chime in.
 

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i don't think the slipped belt would cause a no spark condition, maybe a misfire but a no spark is no chance. a sensor somwhere has got to be bad. crank position sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
From the Pick N' Pull today:

1] VAF and Plastic Intake
2] Ignition Module
3] Temperature Sensor
4] Exhaust Sensor
5] Computer and two other large relay's that were in the middle of the Car Interior.
6] Clutch switch x2 top and bottom
7] Cruise Control Buttons since I broke one of mine.
8] New to me Front Seats
9] Alternator
10] Distributor Assembly
11] Plug Wires
12] Brand New Ashtray and Cigarette Lighter
13] Battery Tie Down Bracket
14] A few other relay's

$141.00 for all so pretty good deal considering I'm counting on this car to run. Have to go back for the carpeting the spare valve cover and bumper. I've got Sunday to work on it then I'll have to take a break for 7-10 days.

Going to try a power nap and then go toss the easy modules on and see if she fires over. I'm not really looking forward to removing the alternator and I hope like heck I don't have to.

Interesting find - Stuck the key into the ignition switch of the GT at the Pick N' Pull and well it worked just like the one at home. Turned the cylinder opened the doors everything. It would also come out when the ignition was in the on position so I declined obtaining it as I was just not into pulling the entire steering wheel off at the time anyhow. Lol, two days I made a pretty good dent in that totally salvageable car. Hard to believe it ended up there. Bodies rough looks like it got side swiped but nothing too serious. Very little rust.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Installed the new ignition module, clutch switches and last but not least the new distributor. Here is what happens now...

There is power off the coil plug when placing a screwdriver into the end of the plug and grounding out and watching for arc. What doesn't happen is spark from any of the plug wires.

I've got the splash guard off on the left front and a few of the bolts on the alternator are loosened up. That is where I had to stop due to extreme lightning storms in the area.

Tomorrow/Today I'll get onto the task of checking the timing belt condition first off and dropping the alternator.

One more question though in order to try and get away from the nasty alternator remove and reinstall job is... Could my computer be fries and gravy? I have all three of the modules and would only need to pull the center console to test it out. Does anyone else think I should try this before pulling the alternator or will a damaged alternator fry a new computer? Thoughts?

What I also found was that the timing on the plug wires was incorrect. According to the Haynes manual it is 1,2,3,4 from Left to right on the motor and the connection to the distributor cap is 1,2,3,4 counterclockwise from the 1 on the cap. Amazing how it ever ran the wrong way. Wondering now if any damage was done having the plugs firing out of order.

I put the plugs back in the correct order but the no spark problem still persists. Starting to look like I'm going to have to invest in a timing light. I'll have to make the decision after looking at the Timing Belt.

Questions:

1] Should I install the new computer and see if I have spark?
2] Would a severe timing issue cause a no spark scenario?
3] Is my plug wire setup correct 1,2,3,4 on the motor and 1,2,3,4 counterclockwise from the 1 on the cap?
4] Why is there spark to the distributor from the coil but no spark from the wires?

Upon further research online I'm finding this post http://www.automotiveforums.com/t747183 ... help_.html somewhat helpful. Haven't finished reading it yet but it is starting to suggest the ECU unit.

I'll be replacing the VAF first thing. Also I'll throw the new computer in there and disconnect the crappy stereo install while I'm in the same area. Why is the mazdalvr at the other thread saying the firing order is 1,3,4,2 or 1,4,3,2 is the Haynes manual wrong again. I'll have to look on the hood of the car a little closer for the information - perhaps it will be on a sticker there somewhere.

Buddy over http://www.ford-forums.com/ford-escort/ ... -2-0l.html here says the firing order is 1,3,2,4 and now I say this is really getting messed up. I'ma be looking hard for the information on the car period. Oh I didn't use my new cap and rotor that I picked up from Canadian tire because the other ones looked really good no cracks or arcs - barely used. I'll throw the new ones on there after I get some spark happening and then a new set of plugs.
 

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LiquidForce said:
Could my computer be fries and gravy? Questions:

1] Should I install the new computer and see if I have spark?
2] Would a severe timing issue cause a no spark scenario?
3] Is my plug wire setup correct 1,2,3,4 on the motor and 1,2,3,4 counterclockwise from the 1 on the cap?
4] Why is there spark to the distributor from the coil but no spark from the wires?
If the heater core went it could fry the computer.

1) couldn't hurt
2)Yes
3)Fireing order is wrong. Counter clockwise, 1,3,4,2
4)My guess timming belt or bad distributor.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Replaced the computer. Took the top timing belt cover off, distributor cap off and stuck the dipstick in the #1 spark plug hole. Rotated the crankshaft clockwise until the dipstick started to move down then turned it back a pinch.

Examined the top camshaft markings and determined the one on the left was not lined up. How easy was that to check. Seems like it skipped over to the right a notch or two.

Have the alternator and water pump bolts off. Stalled out trying to get the crankshaft pulley off. It will have to wait until I have more time. Can't wait to get this car running.

With it running at least I can look at doing other work to it as time permits. Yeah I'd even consider doing a motor swap for one with turbo. Of course then at the time it would get a new clutch. I'd have to say that for $3000 - $3500 it would make a pretty cool automobile.

I'll keep posting as time permits here.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well I was about to crack the crankshaft bolt and check the bottom timing mark on the crankshaft but didn't. It almost appeared that the intake cam was off by half a tooth but after I made sure I was at top dead centre it was obvious that the rotor was not entirely pointing at the #1 plug on the distributor. Adjusted the distributor so it was pointing directly at the #1 plug.

After realizing it couldn't be the timing because the marks were bang on and the timing belt was done less than 5000km ago I decided to belt it all back up and try and start it. Previously I had mentioned that there was spark from the coil wire. Again I had the assistant test the coil wire and it really gave him a good jolt this time but strangely enough again no spark off the wires.

So I threw the new rotor and cap on the distributor and it fired right up. I ate crow for the next hour or so because I refused to put the new cap and rotor on earlier but then it wouldn't have been as much fun and I wouldn't have retrieved every single electronic spare part I need for the emergency kit. Had a bad plug wire as well so replaced that and it idles quite well but eventually shuts itself off after 15 mins or less. No doubt the car will get a new battery, plug wires and new plugs.

Seems we goofed the float on the new fuel pump install as the gas gauge should be reading around full. Perhaps that will straighten itself out over time. Need to burn off the old gas anyhow so if it would idle for a few hours that would be great. For sure it's getting an oil change.

The car also received a new rear bumper today so she now has not quite a mint body but certainly above average for a 1995. Once she runs reliably enough I'll throw some plates on it and drive it somewhere for the rest of the work.

I think I tracked down someplace in Calgary that sold BP motors and would want them to install and do some brake and suspension work there as well. I need one more green rim to match the three I have scouted out at the pick n' pull. That would finish off the car rather nicely I would think.

Comparatively speaking I've spent around $4000.00 for the car already and I've made good use of the initial $2000.00 price of the vehicle. Now it is a second hobby vehicle and I well know I'll never get my money out of it not now or later so a hobby it has become.

So a person could go and spend ninety-thousand on a new Merc or some other type of exotic but from what I have read I can squeeze some pretty good torque and performance out of this platform so another $4000.00 to boost and mod it will make a very fun car to drive. I really want to make smoke with the front tires on this car.
 
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