Is it the: A) Starter/Solenoid B) Ignition C) Interrupt Switch (Clutch or Park/Neutral) D) Bad connection. E) Engine. Tools & Supplies: Circuit tester, Alligator Clips, Male & Female blade connectors, 14 gauge or better wire. About the Starter/Solenoid: https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=0C43F28D3024191B&id=C43F28D3024191B!188&v=3 The Starter/Solenoid is all part of the same assembly. There are two posts on the assembly. 1) The thick gauge bolt-on wire is hot-at-all-times from the battery. (do not short!) 2) Thinner gauge clip-on wire receives 12v via the Ignition. The interrupt switch lies between the ignition and starter/solenoid assembly. Testing the Starter: (nutshell: short the two contacts on the starter/solenoid assembly) 0) Get a small jumper wire or alligator clips. 1) Set the parking brake and block off the wheels. 2) Place the vehicle in neutral or get run over. 3) At the starter/solenoid assembly, squeeze the black clip from top/bottom and pull it off the blade contact. 4) Attach one end of the alligator clip to the blade contact. 5) Touch the other end to any 12v source. (like the other post next to it) If the starter doesn't engage, then the problem is either 'A' or 'E'. If the starter consistently engages, the issue is 'D' 'C' or 'B'. To test for 'E' simply use a torque bar on the crankshaft damper (harmonic balancer) bolt to rotate the engine clockwise. If you can't turn the engine in neutral then it is locked-up. Testing the Ignition + Interrupt Switch: 1) Insert male blade connector into the clip that was detached from the starter. 2) Attach the alligator clip to the inserted blade connector, the other end to the circuit tester. 3) The negative lead for the circuit tester can then attach to any ground. (due to corrosion and painted surfaces, it is often hard to get a solid ground connection in a car) With the ignition turned to the crank/start position, your interrupt switch activated (or bypassed,) the circuit tester should begin to read battery voltage. If NOT reading battery voltage, then the problem is 'D' 'C' or 'B'. If you are reading battery voltage, reconnect the wire back to the starter/solenoid assembly. If it again fails to crank, yet the starter assembly tested okay prior, either there is an intermittent connection or there is a bad connection ('D'). Sometimes bad or intermittent connections develop between contacts in one of the switches (interrupt or ignition) or across a wiring harness. "Voltage Drop Testing" can help isolate the bad or intermittent connection. Straight-pin can be used to pierce wiring insulation to get a reading. The interrupt switch, at least for manual shifts is attached via wiring harness. It can be removed from the circuit and independently tested. Don't be surprised if it starts working once removed from the vehicle though. Mine only liked to act up during frigid weather so once brought into the warm garage/house, worked fine. ======== What prompted this: Hopped in to get back home a few nights ago, turned the key, nothing but a few relays clicking and a "fuel cut-out" light staring at me. (maybe a few other idiot lights too) Lights wouldn't dim or anything. Battery voltage was a lower than usual but probably merely weather related. Pumped the clutch pedal several times repeating the process with the same result. Slightly longer story short, I bypassed the clutch pedal switch with a couple of blade terminals connected by some jumper wire; inserted into the wiring harness for the disconnected interrupt switch. I've read many posts basically exclaiming, "I replaced the starter and it still won't crank." This is aimed at confirming the problem before jumping the gun. The wiring diagram shows me that the ignition (hot at all times) simply passes 12v to the clutch pedal switch, then the starter assembly. (starter assembly has everything including solenoid) You can get to the starter terminals from the top or bottom. It is easier to see the terminals from the bottom; strong light shining down from the top. But it is not impossible to test it from the top.