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ok guys, as much as a newbie as i am, we´ll, sorta.

But anyways, all i have done for a mod really is K&N intake
someone give suggestions on a good mod to start out with. :)
 

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when you say K&n intake I will take the liberty of assuming you mean that you replaced with cone style....so I guess a good way yo go from there would be good plugs and bigger wires...maybe invest in some strut bars as they are not that exp and easy to install
 

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definately start with your basic tune up stuff

motorcraft plugs AGSP32PP
[Platinum Plug] Alternative Platinum Plug; Spark Plug Gap: 0.044

Denso Iridium# VQ16
AutoLite# APP3924(double platinum) ATI3924(titanium plug)
NGK numbers
BKR5EK (7956) Standard Plug
BKR5EIX (6341) IX Iridium

id get some performance wires from corksport. but here are some wire numbers just in case
WRE-4063 is motorcraft

motorcraft cap number
DH-444 and rotor is DRE-386A
 

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I agree with siragan...brakes. VERY easy to do on a scort. Buy some slotted and crossdrilled rotors off of ebay and some better pads (EBCs are my recommendation) In fact to put the rotors on and put new front pads on shouldnt take more then 45 mins.

Rears...are only tricky because they are spring loaded and rotate forward instead of coming off like the fronts.

Springs and struts can be tricky for a noob. Strut tower bar is pretty easy though. Timing is easy to do...but you should know alot about performance and how timing affects a motor.

just a few thoughts--- If I could do it all over again:
1. brakes
2. springs/struts
3. strut tower bars
4. exhaust / intake
5. wheels
6. ignition system
7. fuel system and prep work for turbo
8. Turbo

Instead I did it all bass ackwards....so I drive around with tons of potential, but a fuel system that can´t handle any of it.
 

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<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%>[TR][TD]Quote:

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11-04-2003 at 00:38, TheBlade wrote:
Timing is easy to do...but you should know alot about performance and how timing affects a motor.
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I need to change my timing belt, and I also need to check my timing, but I cant find any marks anywhere on the crank pulley to time to... am I missing something?

All I know about timing is that advanced timing helps low end torque and retarding timing gives better high end power.

Rotating the dist towards you advances timing, right? Do you adjust timing while the car is running? What happens if you go too far?

Also, how hard is a timing belt change, and what´s the best timing belt on the market?
 

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There are two different types of timing, ignition timing and cam timing. The timing everyone refers to as advancing with the distributor is ignition timing. That is the relationship between the spark and the position the piston is in the cylinder when the spark fires. Cam timing is the relationship between where the valves are in relation to the piston in the cylinder. I could go on for a while about this, but instead I think I will post a new article describing the finer points of each. BTW the timing belt is what keep the cam(s) and crank timed with each other which has nothing to do with ignition timing except for the fact that the distributor is connected to the back of one of the cams. (Exhaust cam for the 1.8 I believe.)
 

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yeah, changing the timing with the cams is usually only something to do if your changing your exhaust lift or intake lift duration. ignition timing is easy, and on the 1.8L if you change the timing too much it will just run like crap...thats what I meant about knowing what your doing.

Timing belt ....I couldn´t really fill you in. I had a shop do it because it did envolve pulling the inside of the fender off and pulling all the other belts and pulling the motor out a little....too much work for me, so I paid the 4xx bucks.
 

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<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%>[TR][TD]Quote:

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11-04-2003 at 06:54, Mibz wrote:
Changing the timing belt yourself is a pain in the ass. I´d definitely get a shop to do it.
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Greg has no money, and doesn´t trust shops. You paid 400 bucks to change the timing belt? That´s almost half the cost of my GT. I know it´s a shitty thing to say, but it would probably be more economical for me to risk breaking the engine and not replace it. I´m not like that in nature, but being 18 in college does that shit to ya...

I´ve got a haynes manual and some time in the summer. I think I will start up a new thread of how this is done, in detail.
 

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oh yeah... will the 1.8L in the 91gt "freewheel" the valves if the timing belt breaks?

In other words, if my timing belt snaps and the shit goes down, will I end up bending all my valves and cracking all my pistons?
 

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Sorry, Greg, no clue about whether or not the mazda unit is an interference engine. :-(

<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%>[TR][TD]Quote:

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just a few thoughts--- If I could do it all over again:
1. brakes
2. springs/struts
3. strut tower bars
4. exhaust / intake
5. wheels
6. ignition system
7. fuel system and prep work for turbo
8. Turbo
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My order so far:
1. brakes
2. supension/wheels/tires/strut braces
3. body work (preventative rust maintenance)
4. waiting till engine breaks to either rebuild into a 1.9L turbo monster.. or drop in SVT Zetec :-]

I ordered the Stillen crossdrilled brakes and matching carbon pads from Stillen. I´m going to do a writeup on them for the parts review section soon. I don´t reccomend crossdrilled rotors unless you burn up pads frequently.
 

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Hi guys,

Does neone knows how much it costs to rent ...(I don´t know what is the appropriate term in english) but neways, it´s the big lift meant to lift your motor off your car.... in a local rental tool shop!?
tx
 

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couple of items.

1. don´t get underdrive pullies. the main pully has the ...darnit can´t think of it.. but it acts as a dampaner. in other words reduces vibrations on the crank. if you replace it wouthout one you could be in a world of hurt later. this is for 91-96 GTs

2. the 91-96 1.8 BP engine is a non-interference engine so in MOST cases you will get no damage.

3. no idea what an engine lift would cost to rent you. didn´t know you could honestly :)
 

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I´ve done my timing belt twice. I change belts every 50,000 miles. It really isn´t as bad as you think. Sometime I may sit down and write a detail on how to do it, but the Haynes manual was really thorough. Is the 1.8 an interferance engine, well that was a healthy debate. In my experience, YES, had belts break in two seperate gts at the lot and both times bent valves. An engine hoist cost me 20 bucks to rent for a day. Prices vary widely on these. keep in mind, you can buy a hoist for about 140 bucks.
 

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<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%>[TR][TD]Quote:

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11-04-2003 at 10:57, egtdude wrote:
couple of items.

1. don´t get underdrive pullies. the main pully has the ...darnit can´t think of it.. but it acts as a dampaner. in other words reduces vibrations on the crank. if you replace it wouthout one you could be in a world of hurt later. this is for 91-96 GTs

2. the 91-96 1.8 BP engine is a non-interference engine so in MOST cases you will get no damage.

3. no idea what an engine lift would cost to rent you. didn´t know you could honestly :)
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1. It´s called a Resonator, I believe....

2. MOST of the time no damage...I´d say watch out if the belt snaps because I put $2000 into my engine when the belt blew... but I think I got f*&kin screwed by the shop. They never showed me the head, so I never saw the "bent valves" so I dunno.

3. An engine stand or engine puller? I found an engine stand for 30 bucks, when i had money I couldn´t find it again though. to Buy an engine puller, I found one for $190 dollars. But if you don´t wanna spend that money to pull one engine, it´s not worth it.
 

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timing belts suck major ass.... i had to change mine last november. took me and my dad about 11 hrs. i cant beleive how long it takes to change a $10 belt. btw.... if ur changing a timing belt u might as well change all the other ones since ur there ne wayz. o yeah... and the water pump (i was going to do this but got lazy)
 

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timing belts on most cars are not that bad...I´ve changed a few....of the worst would have to be a 91 Ply Laser...I did it in a parking lot...but it got done...down here I found a place that sells lifts for 130 bucks....one of the best ideas is to pawn shop for one or find a non main line parts store....even though they have different names on them most are very similar or the same with diff paint...and diff prices...you might find a decent deal with Harbor freight tools also
 
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