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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok so heres the plan, my ´93 EGT ´s body is in real ruff shape, and i´m one of those people who like things nice. So i´m thinking of painting my car this summer, and doing some minor body work. So i have a few questions

A) what color is a nice color. should i just do plain red, or go for something like "candy Apple Red" or something. Or i have ALWAYS wanted a Black EGT, but i settled for less with a red one, so maybe a black, but what are some nice blacks, im not too sure about colors and stuff.

b) how much is paint? i plan on doing the whole thing myself (with the aid of an experienced car guy ;-)) i believe i have the knowledge to do such and it would be a good learning experience.

c)how difficult is rust to remove? is it just sand out and use some rust treatment, oris its rip out the panel and put new metal in?

the biggest thing is anyone know some really cool colors i could play round with?
 

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Black metal flake is hella freaking cool looking. I painted my computer case that color, and it´s expensive, but it´s very cool. Blue pearl in the clearcoat is a great idea.

And automotive paint is hella expensive... you´d need the paint and the tools, and the tools are going to be hella hard to find, and I highly doubt any body shops will let you "use" their equipment and "do it yourself".

I asked for an estimate at a local ******* shop up here in potsdam and they gave me a quote of about 800 bucks for new coat of solid black on the car. This is actually extremely cheap, but I got scared away because not only is that the cost of the car itself, but chances are it would be a fairly shitty paintjob.

My car is hella rusty, but I plan on just griding it down, repairing it, and buying some spraypaint and rust inhibitor to smooth things over. My car has gotten past the point of wanting to seriously repair damage, because so much has already rusted. It´s kinda sad. If I were the original owner the car would be looking like new, but most people don´t give two shits about scorts.
 

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A) what color is a nice color. should i just do plain red, or go for something like "candy Apple Red" or something. Or i have ALWAYS wanted a Black EGT, but i settled for less with a red one, so maybe a black, but what are some nice blacks, im not too sure about colors and stuff.

I wouldn´t do the painting yourself nuke, get it done in a shop where you can store it so dust and crap doesn´t get onto it. I would love to have a Black EGT too, if you go for black get a pure black clearcoat. But maybe you could have a little blue mixed in like Zee suggested. I personally think that the WRX has one of the most beautiful blue colors I´ve ever seen, WR Blue Mica. I´d shoot for a blue like that.

b) how much is paint? i plan on doing the whole thing myself (with the aid of an experienced car guy ;-)) i believe i have the knowledge to do such and it would be a good learning experience.

Depends on how much you want to spend, and how good you want it to be. A really really really really really good job could cost you upwards of 3 to 5 grand. But in reality an ok paint job could cost you 800-1500. I´d rather take a loan out and get the 5 grand paint job, and seeing as how you´re picky about how it looks, i figure you´d want to do that too.

c)how difficult is rust to remove? is it just sand out and use some rust treatment, oris its rip out the panel and put new metal in?

again this depends on how much you want to spend, I have a piece of sheet metal I got from someplace that I can always weld back onto my car but to do it right you´d really want to get it done professionally. First you´d have to figure out how deep the rust is, grind it off, weld a piece of metal/fiberglass on there then bondo, sand, primer, sand and paint.

the biggest thing is anyone know some really cool colors i could play round with?
Something that would be sweet...get a chameleon paint job done. Blue/green or red/orange, or even black/greyish...in the words of siragan...that would look hella sweet.
 

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adam get an onyx black that they use on chevy trucks, and mix in some red pearl and it looks real nice... are you ever going to redoe the interior?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yeah its on my list, this is a long term thing, ill put mx3 seats in, maybe find some new back seats, paint dash, its on my list.... WR Mica Blue is amazing, but im trying to paint it in photoshop but it always has too much red so its really dark...
 

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Sorry the WRX has the color called WR Blue Pearl. The Nissan Sentra SE-R uses a blue called Vibrant Blue which is brighter than the WR Blue Pearl, I love that color too. I think when I paint my car it´ll be a midrange to dark blue... something that isn´t really bright but looks awesome nonetheless. :-]
 

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sorry guys, but I don´t see the point in spending 4K dollars in paint in a 3K dollar car...

could someone clue me in? and I´m not trying to be an asshole either.
 

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<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%>[TR][TD]Quote:

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01-03-2003 at 20:59, siragan wrote:
sorry guys, but I don´t see the point in spending 4K dollars in paint in a 3K dollar car...

could someone clue me in? and I´m not trying to be an asshole either.
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Because it´s STILL cheaper than buying a 20,000 dollar car and making payments for 5 years. Good enough reason for you? :cool:
 

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Most people don´t understand my obsession either.But here it is 2:30 in the morning and my lady is sleeping,I still have the smell of goop on my hands and I can´t wait for the parts store to open.Some things can´t be explained.For me it´s pride, I see these guys who put alot of money into their cars and have no idea what really goes into it.I love making and concieving stuff for my scort and I always feel cheesy buying stuff for it because anyone can drill a hole and run a screw into it.But to design and build that part is a really personal thing and when I pull into a parking lot full of hondas that are 10 or more years newer and people start coming over to my car to check it out,man there´s nothing else that can make you feel like that.Oh yeah paint I´d go with black,what ever pearl you like but deffinitely stay with the heritage and throw on some pony car stripes!

"MICKEY" 89 PONY
Hey lets put a motor on Timmy!

[ This message was edited by: PTMD on 02-03-2003 05:37 ]
 

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<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%>[TR][TD]Quote:

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01-03-2003 at 17:21, nukewater wrote:
what color is a nice color. should i just do plain red, or go for something like "candy Apple Red" or something. Or i have ALWAYS wanted a Black EGT, but i settled for less with a red one, so maybe a black, but what are some nice blacks, im not too sure about colors and stuff.
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Nuke, color is a very personal choice, but as a garden designer I work with color all of the time, so here goes my opinion.....first of all I wouldn´t ever choose black. It looks nice if offset by a little chrome on a perfect car (no scratches or dings) when it is perfectly clean. The rest of the time it detracts from the car´s looks IMHO.

If I were to repaint, I´d first think about factory colors I like, and yes I´m biased toward brighter colors, so here goes.......on a 93, the nicest factory color on a GT is Bimini Blue, which is a bright blue, kinda robin´s egg color. There´s a 93 GT round here that shade I drool over every time. From 94 on there are more choices I like...Electric Red, which is what I´ve got, it´s common on LX but pretty rare on GT´s I think. Sunrise Red, which looks similar at first, but has a silver/lavender sheen to it when the sun hits it right...definitely looks custom. Bright Calypso Green is nice and....well yeah, bright. Iris is kind of a rose-pink color, sounds lame but looks sweet on a GT. Then there´s Ultra Violet which is a really nice purple. These are all colors that GT´s came in, and I would have a pretty hard time deciding between them, cause I like them all so much. Yeah, that´s one thing I like about scorts.....they came in lots of cool colors. I get really bored with white/black/silver.
:p
 

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I´d probably do the whole thing in a gunmetal pewter color or something... but any dents may make it look bad.. dunno. gunmetal is my favorite color, all the cool parts of charcoal, black, and silver, in this slightly translucent material that seems to change color in different lights and also reflect things nicely. If you´re going to spend a lot on a new paintjob, you may as well get a kind of paint that will only look good if done expensively...

here are some pics of what I´m talking about:

I know it´s a civic, but this shot really really captures what I´m talking about... the almost mercury properties displayed by this paint are simply breathtaking:

 

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If you go with any pearl or glossy paint any little ding will look like shit in the sunlight. Even the small of small ding will look like a BIG ASS one in the sunlight. I went with a 99% pearl paint and there is one side of the door that has a small ding in it. You can see that MoFO from at least 25 feet back :-Y
Some paints show dings more then others. A LOT more :p anyhow that's my $0.52cents worth :-] :-Y
 

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I think my old 93 GT had the Bimini Blue:

http://hometown.aol.com/zeemaxsub2/myhomepage/

Depending on the angle, goes from sky blue to what was said earlier, robin´s egg blue, etc.
 

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I saw a newer mitsubishi eclipse the other day and I thought the color on it would look great on a scort. It is called steel blue pearl, go to the mitsubishi website and check it out, although the website hardly does the color justice. Other than that I prefer just about any really dark blue, but white also looks good on a scort.
 

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<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%>[TR][TD]Quote:

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Something that would be sweet...get a chameleon paint job done. Blue/green or red/orange, or even black/greyish...in the words of siragan...that would look hella sweet.
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$250 + per pint.

Color sample post... http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?mop=modload&name=Forums&file=viewtopic&topic=1937&forum=20

And an in depth paint prep I did on ERDT.

Maybe you can get an experienced painter to spray the paint where ever you have prepped it. Each state has different laws on the spraying environment.

If your changing the color of your vehicle, take it apart. The insides of the doors, hood, trunklid should be first painted, reinstalled then remasked for painting of the exterior. Also behind the bumpers and the spare tirewell is visable from outside so it will have to be changed too. On an escort be sure to remove the quater window and the molding below the window and on the door to prevent chipping later on.

A mask and protective clothing should be warn when painting. Cover your hair and wear gloves such as dish washing gloves. Dust can be kept down by wetting the floor. Wipe down the air hose and keep the portion next to the car off the ground.

Once prepped, primer is really only needed over body work areas. If your changing the color the entire car needs to be one color, usually a neutral color such as gray. A sealer is used for that and it also helps keep the shine.

1. First the vehicle needs to be washed (soap and water), then use wax and grease remover over the entire vehicle including doorjams and such. If you start sanding the car with wax still on it you will most likely get a bunch of fish eyes in the final paint. Note, Do not prep or paint in a room that has silicone of any type, example: silicone based polish. It will still be in the air and on everything else in the room, you will have a non-cureable fish eye problem.

2. Mask all windows, If any grinding is done for bodywork the metal shavings can scratch the windows and if hot enough melt the sparkes or welding right onto the window. It can be removed but a white spot on the window will remain. In some cases people will set sandpaper or other objects on dusty glass also creating permenant scratches.

3. Sand the car, 320 Grit 3M sand paper on a D/A (dual action sander also called an orbital sander) for quick prep. Make sure the disk is not spinning before it is on the vehicle to prevent slight grid marks that will show through the new paint. If no bodywork is needed or as final sanding after body work is finished, wet sand with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper on a 3M rubber squeegie. The smoother the prep work the smoother the paint. Sand from all directions to prevent imperfections in the paint such as grooving, up, down, left, right and on a 45% angle both directions. If the car is not taken apart, all area´s that cannot be properly prepped such as the seam between the bumper and fender, front door and front fender will eventually start to flake away showing the old color.

4. Remask or mask over existing to paper to prevent contaminants and other parts you don´t want to paint. This includes windows, lights, wheels/tires, inner fender walls (should be black), antenna mounts, etc.

5. Use a blower to blow all dust from any creases/grooves. Wipe down with wax and grease remover (prep-sol). Most prep-sol´s are not designed as a finishing prep before spraying. Sikkens M600 ($30 USD a gallon) is a finishing prep and usable before painting. Wipe down with an automotive tack cloth.

6. Spraying primer or sealer is the same, Spray with a 50% overlap to produce a glossy coat allowing to tack dry between each coat. A minimum of 2 coats is recommended. The type of spray gun you use also determines the finished product with primer, sealer or the final paint. The best results are produced with HVLP gravity feed. The Sata NR 95 cost somewhere between $400-$500.

7.Do not scuff the primer or sealer, if any dust has gotten in the primer or sealer and you wetsand the top coat you will sand the paint off the top of the dust and creat a primer/sealer colored spot on the car. Wetsand with no courser than 400 and no finer than 600 grit.

8. Repeat step 5.

9.If you plan on using a translucent or candy paint do not use white for a base. White or light colors will create a blotchy candy paint job. Candies are designed to go over metallic bases such as silver or gold. House of Kolor has a Kandy Base Coat that looks exactly the same as their real candies and is much easier to paint. Also spraying lightly will produce dry coats and affect the adhesion of the paint, even wet coats must be sprayed. When spraying a true candie color over base 4 to 5 coats is needed or it will prematurely fade in a year or so. No fading will accure when sprayed properly. If a run is created in any layer you must start over (sand smooth, prep, spray base, candy, clear. Candy paints require a base color, usually 2 to 3 coats, 4 to five coats of candy and if your going to wetsand and polish you really should spray 4 coats of clear. Thats 11 coats of paint minimum. If you chip or scratch it, good luck matching when you repaint 11 coats on just one piece. There is also a trick to spraying metallics to prevent dark streaks in the metallic. Dark colors are hardest to take care of and easiest to see imperfections, light/bright colors are very easy to take care of and hides imperfections well.

Dupont paint (base) has a 24hr window before clear must be sprayed making it best for graphics.
House of Kolor paints stand out the most and have great custom colors with a window of one hour. Seems to outshine everything. Depending on temp and humidity, House of Kolor clear or kandie must be recoated in approximately no longer than 25 minutes. If it dries to much before recoating it will begin to look like alligator skin. (dry, start over)
PPG dries hard like the old lacquer and get brittle resulting in easier chips.

all basecoat, clearcoat paints must be sprayed wet on wet. If you have graphics, use 4 coats of clear, wetsand with 400grit repeat step 5 and re-clearcoat for a super smooth finish.

10. Wetsand with 1000grit 3M sandpaper (other sandpaper is rated differently) using the 3M rubber squeegie as a backer, this will sand only the tops off the orange peal texture of the paint until all the texture is gone once again sanding from all angles. Two types of polish and two wool pads are needed using a variable speed polisher at its lowest setting. First polish with a courser compound with one pad. Change pads and polish with a finishing compound such as the 3M Finesse-it II finishing compound. Dont skimp on polish, if it dries up you can burn the paint. (then repaint)

With all that said I recommend having it professionally done. If your looking to get out of it cheap by doing it yourself you´ll most likely have the same amount into it after getting the right equipment. Hutchins D/A sander $240, Makita polisher $250, Sata NR 95 Gravity feed spray gun $400, Clearcoat $250 a gallon (approx.) Base coat, primer, sealer, sand paper (d/a paper, 400 wet/dry, 1000 wet/dry and other courser bodywork sandpaper), bondo, prep-sol. aircompressor. Not including any special equipment for bodywork.

Just remember "You get what you pay for".

Most everything is listed above. There are always forgotten things.
If you have any further questions please contact me.
 
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