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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, new to the board as of today! This past weekend my dad gave me a little 95 escort sedan. I'm going to use it as my get-around car while I sell my 98 civic and finish building my 88 mustang (and considering it got 34mpg on the highway I'll probably keep it for a daily driver!).

Here's the scoop/questions:
(if possible, put answered numbered so I know which questions you actually answer :p)

1. It's got a fresh 30k engine/tranny (1.9l auto) from a wrecked wagon but the heater core leaks slowly. How hard is it to get to the heater core? does the evaporator core have to come out also or can it be swapped out with the housings all still in place?

2. The interior was ratted to hell and back but I've already started cleaning it (the right way) but I'm trying to find a "correct" interior trim panel paint. Is "medium grey" the right color? I've been removing the seat covers and washing them in the washing machine with excellent results and tossing all the plastic parts in the dish washer and they come out sparkling and 100% free of dirt/grease/etc and are ready for paint. I just need to find a paint that is for plastic and that I can of course use armoral on once it's cured.

3. Had to get a driver's side taillight from the pull-a-part and while I was there I was looking and noticed some instrument clusters had tach's on them. I found one that was JUST like mine, same mileage, had the 120mph speedo also, but also had a tach. Are the escorts pre-wired from the factory for tach so all I would have to do is plug in the cluster with a tach?? If not, what has to be done?

4. Anyone know a place that sells replacement headliners for these things or am I just going to have to keep scouring the pull-a-part for one in good shape until I find one? :roll:

5. Also found a car at the pull-a-part with power windows and the same color inner door panels. Are the cars all pre-wired for power windows so all I would have to do is swap parts and plug in the harnesses?? if not what else would I need to add to get this accomplished? What all parts would I have to rob exactly (such as, is the window glass also needed)?

6. Having to use a ford tempo key for my trunk and door locks as the original key broke (I just put it in, and pull out a little then twist and it hits the tumblers correctly so it works :p) As well as for the ignition but the ignition can turn with a screwdriver so who cares haha. Um, I've found a complete good ignition and door/trunk lock set with keys at the pull-a-part, anyone know how to get the ignition out? I looked on the column for the little "button" you push in while turning to pop it out but either I'm blind or these ignitions use a different method, but I can't find it.

That's about all the questions I have right now and appreciate any info you guys can give me on this, thanks guys!!
 

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he's asking some q's. leave him be. Maybe if he acted like a noob and started talking about turbo then that would be one thing, but he seems decently intelligent about cars. Besides, not like most of the top 20 topics are bullshit anyway.

for number 5) you would need the door harness, motors, and switches and other than that, it will plug right in.

You will have to drill 2 holes because the power window motor does not line up the same on the door skeleton as a manual window crank does. Once u drill the holes, its all about adding washers, trial and error to get the window to roll up and down perfectly. But its very doable
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
hotscort said:
i got a sugestion use the SEARCH button

i dont mean to be an a$$
you were most certainly trying to be an ass.

hotscort said:
am i not allowed to give the noob a hard time
no...you aren't.

92gt5spd said:
he's asking some q's. leave him be.
thank you. I do realize that some of my questions were answered after the post when I actually had time to read the boards but the answers I found were very vague as it is such as concerning the gauge cluster. Apparently people say I DO have to run a wire to the coil packs for it to work but they make NO mention anywhere of which wire to tap in the pack or the cluster. I mean geez why say something will work and then not give a walkthrough on it?

Sounds like it might be easier for me to just take the entire door(s) off the car in the yard instead of having to drill holes and all haha. I can't understand how this would be? I looked in my parts interchange(crash) book and don't see 2 listings for door hulls for sedans (such as power window equipped versus manual). Hmmmm.

Maybe if he acted like a noob and started talking about turbo then that would be one thing
come to think of it, I had thought about a turbo for this car since I own 2 turbocharged as it is. Both my mustang and civic are turbo cars :p

http://www.geocities.com/_nitro_

but I also realized this engine was never meant for forced induction and don't want to blow it up.
 

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stackz said:
come to think of it, I had thought about a turbo for this car since I own 2 turbocharged as it is. Both my mustang and civic are turbo cars :p

http://www.geocities.com/_nitro_

but I also realized this engine was never meant for forced induction and don't want to blow it up.
Both of your projects kick ass! I'm a fan of the old 2.3 Turbo's, and the newer sport compact stuff..as long as it involves a turbo.

...oh and the Escort Engine wont "blow up" with boost. You should add the escort as one of your projects. :wink:
 

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1. you have to completly pull the dash from the car, sounds harder than it is, then it comes out after un hooking the hoses on the firewall to it. give yourself 5-6 hours.

2. on the door trim of the drivers side, it has the exterior paint code, and interior. some people i have heard are using likr fabric paint, say it stays on better.

3. you need to rn like one wire or so, grab a reapir manual and check the wire diagram. but most of it shoudl eb there, seen people swap them inlike there lunch break.

4.there are companies that sell headliner fabric, its like 8 bucks a yard, by a yard wide. you would have to carefully pull the old hadliner of the backing board, and use an adhisive spay to attache the new stuff. this way you can get new colors also.
http://www.atrim.com/index.html
thry there.

5. not fully pre wired, you wil need al the wires in the door, and run them to the comp. and wire it all in. just use a manual and ifollow the diagram.. my buddy has done a few it gets easeir every time.

6.might have to pull the cover off the colom, its 4 screws on the bottom. but thats iall i know on that, once you tear one a part, you should be able to go farther on it.
 

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Re: New guy on here with some fix it up questions (sorta lon

stackz said:
6. Having to use a ford tempo key for my trunk and door locks as the original key broke (I just put it in, and pull out a little then twist and it hits the tumblers correctly so it works :p) As well as for the ignition but the ignition can turn with a screwdriver so who cares haha. Um, I've found a complete good ignition and door/trunk lock set with keys at the pull-a-part, anyone know how to get the ignition out? I looked on the column for the little "button" you push in while turning to pop it out but either I'm blind or these ignitions use a different method, but I can't find it.
Don't know about the Escorts, but I know that on F-150's if you put the key in the ignition (and set it to run I think as well), there's a ball bearing on the underside of the lock barrel (you'll need to remove the bezeling to get at it). Push this in and pull with the key. The tumbler assembly can be removed, replaced, or re-keyed as required.

Matt 8)
 

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stackz, Don't worry, a lot of people post trash :p But here it's less than on erdt :p

I'm sure someone will blast me when I'll say that a engine from a GT (1.8) can take about 15-18 psi of boost without any modification on it. The tranny, engine and axles can handle as much as 400hp. One of my friend have an aspire with a GT engine in it, with a t3 hybrid. He is running at 15 psi (about 350hp), with an auto tranny and axles from the aspire itself. The aspire's axles are twice smallest than those on the scort.

If no one believe me, I'll try to make him post some pics and is dyno sheet when he was running at 8 psi, no headers and not at his maximal power. (about 230hp). Also, we had a official drag here and he made 9.46 on the 1/8 mile and 13.3 on the 1/4 with street tire, the interior not stripped and not at his maximal :p

Escort rocks! :p
 

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SyStEmDw said:
I'm sure someone will blast me when I'll say that a engine from a GT (1.8) can take about 15-18 psi of boost without any modification on it. The tranny, engine and axles can handle as much as 400hp. One of my friend have an aspire with a GT engine in it, with a t3 hybrid. He is running at 15 psi (about 350hp), with an auto tranny and axles from the aspire itself. The aspire's axles are twice smallest than those on the scort.

If no one believe me, I'll try to make him post some pics and is dyno sheet when he was running at 8 psi, no headers and not at his maximal power. (about 230hp). Also, we had a official drag here and he made 9.46 on the 1/8 mile and 13.3 on the 1/4 with street tire, the interior not stripped and not at his maximal :p

Escort rocks! :p
I belive you, I talked to him my self also. But he has the 1.8 DOHC that has noting in common with stackz 1.9.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
hey thanks for the help guys, I would have replied some yesterday but alas, my only net access right now is at work.

I'll probably do the tach swap and look at the wiring diagrams since I've got a copy of mitchel on demand on my pc (the program most decent shops use...shhh can't tell you how I got it wink wink).

thanks for the thumbs up on my past/current projects too!

as of right now I've got the entire back half of the interior pulled out and completely cleaned the "easy" way and just about all the hard trim pieces have been repainted. I decided to go with normal enamel paint in "smoke grey" color mainly because I wanted something that was durable and that I would never have to armoral :roll:

Um, last question on the heater core
I knew I'd have to take the dash out to get to it and that doesn't bother me, what bothers me is that I charged the a/c before bringing to atlanta and don't have access to the a/c equipment right now to drain the system if I have to take that part out as well. Can anyone confirm/deny that the heater core area of the ducting boxes comes out separately from the evaporator core?? I really need to get that core changed for 2 reasons haha. (1) the slow leak is getting to be a pain in the ass (2) when antifreeze burns/vaporizes it has a tendancy to turn into phosgene gas. p.gas is a nasty pulmonary agent that's been used in a few wars to kill lots of people heh, I don't want to breathe it while listening to the radio on the way to work :p

turbo
I "might" turbocharge the car after I get my mustang up here...or if I have some extra cash after I sell the civic. Main thing that's kept that in the back of my mind is that I've seen the pistons on these 1.9's and they do NOT look turbo happy. what is the compression ratio on these engines anyway?

I've got an extra RHB5 turbo sitting out in my storage closet that I know would be good for the engine as well as an extra FMU with a 6:1 disc but I have no clue where to get a manifold for this engine at??? Neither has anyone confirmed or denied whether I can toss on say...a MAF from a 5.0 mustang and it's matched injectors (that way I can step up from the stock 14.5lb/hr injectors to the 19lb/hr injectors).

Hell, if I knew I could step up in maf/injector size that easily I'd go rob the MAF/injectors from a supercoupe (36lb/hr).

The big thing holding me back is finding a decent turbo manifold for this engine as I have no intention of swapping engines.

Who knows, the pick a part only wants $25 for a head as-is so I might pull one of them off and whip out the dremel and my double cut bits and do a bit of porting....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
you know where I can get steel manifold that will fit the 1.9 to use as a core??

I have no problem hacking up a factory steel manifold to make a manifold for this engine. Just everything I see is cast iron and brazing iron and steel together sucks majorly.

if there are no readily available steel manifolds, is there a company that makes manifold blanks??

this is a manifold blank:


the top part of the picture.

Ooo oooo duh, looked on the site a little more and the company actually makes the header blanks for the engine mmm. Looks like that once I get my other cars sorted out I might be boosting this one haha.
 

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when you take out the heater core, nothing on the inside affects the a/c, when you pull the dash out, the heater core is in like a distribution type box, 3-4 screw pulls it out and the heater core is in it, has never affected my ac at all. done this 3 times.
 

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3.
Get a 95 cluster because the wiring in the 3 plugs that go in the cluster's back did get rearranged at least once in the life of the 2nd gen. I bought a 93 GT and they put in a 95 LX cluster with tach and all the stuff was screwed up. Some warning lights didn't work, wrong ones came on, and even the motorized shoulder belts wouldn'd retract if the parking brake was engaged. :!: I spent 3 full days ringing out every wire and rearranging them. You don't want that hassle. Then I am pretty sure it's just a straight swap. There are 3 plugs as I said, plus the speedo cable. You have to squeeze the ring around the connector to pull it off while lying under the dash. About your Odomeer readin, you can actually just use your original speedo by swapping it into your new cluster so you don't have to worry about the ODO reading. At leat I think the speedo is the same between the two types of cluster.
 

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as for removing your ignition lock:
You have to take the black plastic shroud off.
There are two bolts on the top of the lock where it wraps around the steering column. the only problem is that the heads of these bolts break when torqued leaving only a non descript little nub. The best method of removal i founf was knocking it in a circular motion with a hammer and chisel. If you just cut/broke the head off you will still have to get it out later before installing the lock.

And for god's sake put regular bolts back in when you reinstall. it'll make the next person's life easier.

hope it helps
David
91EGT
67 cOugar
 

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aliennation95gt said:
5. not fully pre wired, you wil need al the wires in the door, and run them to the comp. and wire it all in. just use a manual and ifollow the diagram.. my buddy has done a few it gets easeir every time.

[\quote]

dont have to run any wires to comp. Just unplug the door harness at each door and swap the one in your door for one from a power window donor and it will work.
 
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