FEOA Forums banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've just inherited my grandmother's '98 Escort sedan. SE trim, automatic, 80k miles, and I'd like to start on general maintenance.

Oil change is no problem, coolant change should be easy enough...but I'm a little less sure on the timing belt and automatic transmission fluid.

Timing belt: is it an interference engine? Either way, 11 years and 80k is probably time to change it before it breaks. How bad a job is this? Any special tools needed?

Auto trans fluid: can I just drain/refill? Or should I take it somewhere and have it flushed? What is the correct fluid for this transmission.

And, lastly- who puts out the best "basic repair guide" for these things- Chiltons, Haynes, or what?

Thanks!

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Oh, and one more thing- I know the EDIS ignition on my '97 Ranger is a bit fussy about spark plugs- are these cars particular about what they get, or can I just run regular plugs in it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,240 Posts
Non-interference engine. The timing belt is good for 120K miles, I would wait. It's a PITA job because of the cramped space on that side of the engine. You need an impact wrench to remove the crank pulley bolt. Replace the belt tensioner & water pump while you're in there.

Remove the pan to do an AT drain & fill. Change the AT filter at the same time. The crossmember is in the way.

Don't forget the fuel & air filters, and PCV valve (all Motorcraft).

I like regular NGK V-power plugs changed every 30-40K miles. Leaving platinum plugs in for 100K miles just makes them tough to remove due to carbon buildup. I also prefer the Motorcraft plug wire set.

You can't beat the Ford service manual for comprehensive coverage, even if it does gloss over some repair steps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
rbailin said:
Non-interference engine. The timing belt is good for 120K miles, I would wait. It's a PITA job because of the cramped space on that side of the engine. You need an impact wrench to remove the crank pulley bolt. Replace the belt tensioner & water pump while you're in there.
OK, sounds good. I sure don't WANT to change it...just don't want it to break.

Remove the pan to do an AT drain & fill. Change the AT filter at the same time. The crossmember is in the way.
OK...thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I have this same care same color. Timing belt blew on me after getting off the freeway! Replacing was HELL! Had to un-bolt the motor mounts and using a jack i lifted the motor up a bit. Good luck getting it on. It took me and my father to get it on and HE did most of the struggling. Just remember the settings for the Tensioner. I can't remember what they were but it should not be hard to find especially with Hayes manual.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top