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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Got a new cylinder head...needing some torque specs and sequences if you guys don’t mind. Cylinder head, intake and exhaust and can gear...everything else will just get tightened down with calibrated arm
 

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It is more complex than olde tyme torque specs.

First, the simple answers (all values in foot-pounds):

intake 12-15
exhaust 16-19
cam sprocket 70-85

The one-time use torque-to-yield head bolts are tightened in five distinct steps in the proper sequence:

1. 29-44 (yes, it's a wide range, but it isn't critical at this stage)
2. LOOSEN about 2 turns
3. 44
4. another 1/4 turn (90 degrees)
5. another 1/4 turn (90 degrees)

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You should really consider investing in your own FSM, Chiltons, or Haynes manual...
 

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I researched the whole torque to yield thing a couple of years ago after being very unsatisfied with the process on my first head swap (some of the bolts got easier to turn during the final quarter turn). So on the next engine I did a simple torquing to 55 foot pounds.
Both jobs worked out fine.

I am tempted for the rebuild to buy a set of ARP studs which are also plain torqued. However they cost more than $100.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I’m familiar with tty, Ford modular use the same thing. I appreciate all the input!!! Next race Jan 14 if you’re in the area!
 

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5 steps?!?
I need a manual, the felpro instructions just say 44 ft lbs, and do 90•. That's it. At least the bolts "felt good" last night.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I used an Indicator that attaches to your half inch drive utensil to get the 90’s right. 4.6 and 5.4 both have a tightening loosening step
 

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Here's how ARP recommends doing it with their studs:

N.B. the ARP kit 151-4203 is only listed for Ford Escort 1600cc, but should fit all 1600 (1.6), 1.9 and 2.0 CVH engines, actually all CVH engines other than the obscure 1.8L.

INSTALLATION METHOD FOR HEAD STUD KITS
200,000 PSI 10 mm diameter

1. To ensure proper thread engagement and accurate torque readings, clean ALL threads in the block. Chase if necessary with ARP Thread Chaser.
2. Clean and inspect all hardware prior to installation. Look for obvious defects or shipping damages, plus proper fit, length and dimension.
3. If the cylinder head studs protrude into a water jacket, lubricate the block threads of the studs with ARP THREAD SEALER.
4. Screw studs into the block "HAND TIGHT ONLY".
NOTE: LOCTITE MAY BE USED IF A PERMANENT MOUNTING OF THE STUDS IS PREFERRED. THE FASTENERS, HOWEVER, MUST BE TORQUED PRIOR TO THE LOCTITE SETTING UP.
5. Install the cylinder head(s) and check for binding or misalignment.
6. Lubricate the stud threads, nuts and washers with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT. Then install the washers and the nuts on to the studs and tighten them hand tight. ARP recommends using the ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT that is provided with each kit as opposed to motor oil. This is due to higher friction on the stud s as well as inconsistencies in the clamping force of the fasteners when motor oil or other low quality lubricants are used.
PRELOAD (TORQUE) RECOMMENDATIONS
7. Following the manufacturers recommended torque sequence tighten the nuts in three equal steps to 60 ft lbs with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT.
Note:
ARP Ultra-Torque Fastener Assembly Lubricant has been specifically designed to reduce tension preload scatter and eliminate the need to cycle high performance engine fasteners
before final installation. ARP Ultra-Torque far surpasses all requirements offered by previous ARP lubricants in terms of fastener preload repeatability and performance lubricating properties. For more information on ARP Ultra-Torque visit our website at www.arp-bolts.com or call 1-800-826-3045.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just putting this out there for people who may not know, I’ve always had good luck with chasing the threads by taking an old head bolt and cut two slits in them 180 degrees out...and make guide studs by cutting the heads off four old head bolts. Here’s an obligatory engine bay shot
 

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