Need electrical help | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)

Need electrical help

Discussion in 'ICE (In Car Entertainment)' started by Itchigo, Jul 6, 2017.

  1. Itchigo

    Itchigo FEOA Member

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    I'm hooking up my brainbox for my remote start and power locks mod. I want to be sure I'm using the correct wires. I was hoping someone could doublecheck me before I messed it up. :)

    I am guessing these wires are the 6 wire connector on the left side of the steering column. (I am looking at the bottom of page 7 on this)

    Purple wire goes to: Accessory Black/Red?

    Blue wire goes to: Starter Black/Dark Blue?

    Red and Red/White goes to: Constant 12V+ Black? I could also use a fused wire to the battery?

    Green and Lt Blue goes to: Ignition Blue?
    ---------------------------------------------------
    Power door locks:

    I have these relays ordered.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/252730187650

    I'm using 4 actuators I bought on E Bay. Each one takes 2 or 2.5 amps (can't remember). If I use the gif as a wiring diagram, is that ok?
    (The trunk will have it's own relay).
    ---------------------------------------------------
    Another mod I'm toying with is a garage door opener mod. Put a small button on the dash, and wire it to the remote. Hide the remote in the dash somewhere. I'm thinking to the right of the defroster switch for the button. Maybe keep the 9v battery in the ashtray, since I don't smoke. Easily replaceable. Let my friends think the unmarked button is "Eject".;) Those who know me would not laugh so easily....

    I just finished putting in my new stereo. More tech in that thing than my whole Escort....:whistling: 4wrp.gif IMG_0034.JPG

    Attached Files:

  2. marclar

    marclar Moderator Staff Member

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    what exactly are you trying to pull power from? the ignition switch?

    the relay wiring looks right.
  3. Itchigo

    Itchigo FEOA Member

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    The Audiovox system will work off the 6 wires coming from the ignition switch, assuming they are right.

    The power locks/relays I may do a fused wire from the battery, but I discovered that I have a power windows/power locks terminal in the fusebox. Don't know if it's wired or not.

    2 separate projects. The Audiovox is remote start, keyless entry/alarm.

    The door actuators will tie into the keyless entry project, with an installed switch as well as the remote.
  4. marclar

    marclar Moderator Staff Member

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    i would run a separate wire from the battery as your stating to power both systems. take any additional electrical load away from the factory wiring
  5. neuspeedescort

    neuspeedescort Moderator Staff Member

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    if you are running an auto start you will just tap/hack into your factory ignition wiring.

    your power locks will be fine running thru the alarm brain for signal. you can pull from the 12v constant of your ignition. the amperage pull is very small and will cause no issues to the factory wiring and fusing.

    here are two sites i use commonly to get me wire coding. i always confirm with a DMM.
    http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/vehiclewiring/1/yeard/Ford.html
    http://www.modifiedlife.com/car-radio-alarm-wiring-diagrams/
  6. Itchigo

    Itchigo FEOA Member

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    The power locks won't be powered the same way as the remote start. The remote start should use the 6 wire plug, assuming I have the wires correct.

    The power locks I can use a fused wire from the battery or put a tap on the power locks/window fuse as it's not being used. It's a 30a fuse which should be enough.

    neuspeedscort: I missed your post and had to go back and edit, sorry! I was thinking the same that the signal would be fine going through the ignition. I do plan to have a switch as well though. I got my information from the12volt.com! (I would've never heard of that site if it wasn't for this site!)

    Since I did an A/C video for someone I did a video update on my car.
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2017
  7. cwol97401

    cwol97401 FEOA Member

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    My study of the wiring shows this config:

    1995 escort Circuit Audiovox
    LX ignition: name: 6pin main:
    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
    Black dk blue : start Yellow
    Black white : acc1 Purple
    Dark blue : ign1 Blue
    Black red : Ign2 Green

    Black : batt 1. Red White
    Black : batt 2 Red

    Always double check with a meter before making any connections that you are not absolutely sure about. The two black wires might look identical at the ignition switch. If they do, you should test the actual ignition switch positions to find out which one is no.1 and no.2 it matters only because no.1 serves the starter. It's not necessary to run a separate wire from the battery for the remote start because all it is doing is substituting the actual ignition switch. It will never be used at the same time and can never overload the wires unless it shorts out and blows the main fuse anyway.



    Those relays are fine and the diagram from the12volt.com is correct. You might want to check the kick panels though, there's a slim chance that the car is pre-wired for power locks.



    Ahh the coveted hidden garage door opener envied by many without the homelink system
    My thought here is simply, why use the 9v battery at all if you don't have to? Most simple 9v circuits can run safely on 12 volts
    If you have a spare remote, hard wire it to a cigarette lighter plug and see if it works with the car running and doesn't fry inside. If it does, then just hard wire the hidden one into an accessory circuit. (Maybe the power antenna wire on the back of the radio)? It will only have power when the radio is on. I would put a 2 or 3 amp fuse in it to protect the radio.

    Another thought on the garage door opener. Do you have an extra button on your keyless remote? If so, you could use that wire from the keyless module to trigger the garage door remote too. Still use the 'eject' button and be able to use your keyfob to open the garage door on your way to the garage.

    http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/59613618a3a78/Untitled spreadsheet.pdf


    http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/596136263e33e/power-distribution-1-of-3.pdf


    I use this website for wiring diagrams:
    http://search.ebscohost.com/

    User name: c3687625
    Password: password

    Find auto repair reference center then Diagrams
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2017
  8. Itchigo

    Itchigo FEOA Member

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    Thank you so much for all the help!!

    The remote start I think I have licked except for the Battery1,2. I'll have to test those. The nice thing is I saved the 6 wire and 2 wire plugs (I cut about 3 inches of wire after the connector) from my last Escort. That means I can have a bit of slack in this, making it easier.

    Glad to hear the diagram is correct. To be clear- do all 4 actuators get connected to the 30 terminal on the number 2 and 3 relay? That means I'll have 6 wires to connect at that spot including the switch. The same for relays 1 and 4. Just want to be sure.

    I didn't know I could run an opener with 12v. I thought it'd be too much. I have some spare openers, but I have to get the coding right. (They changed the door opener at my condo and the only one that works is my original one). I have also seen 12v "cloning" openers online.

    I'm not sure if I have an extra button yet. I have lock, unlock, trunk, 1, and 2. Don't know if 1 and 2 are start/stop.

    Oh, there is a fuse for power windows and locks. Haven't looked to see if it was hot. The high current of the locks was the only thing I was considering going to the battery for.
  9. Itchigo

    Itchigo FEOA Member

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    Figured I'd post it for anyone interested. Front and rear door actuator mounting. The black at the bottom of the door is not rust, but rustproofing. That door has a bit just starting, all the other doors are completely clean.
    Door lock mod.jpg IMG_0174.JPG
    cwol97401 likes this.
  10. novanutcase

    novanutcase FEOA Member

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    Nicely done but if I'm not mistaken you could have just pulled a power door lock unit off of a 3rd gen escort and used that. As far as I know the 2nd and 3rd gen doors are the same so the mount points would all be there.

    John
  11. cwol97401

    cwol97401 FEOA Member

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    Do your actuators have a three wire or a twowire connection? Do they ground through a screw? I think you may need to get a different relay schematic.

    Tapatalk
  12. Itchigo

    Itchigo FEOA Member

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    novanutcase: Thanks! I didn't know 2nd and 3rd were the same, but these actuators cost 13$ for 6 of them. Anything I found online as far as original actuators were INSANELY priced. Even Rockauto.

    cwol97401: They are 2 wire, but I tested them before closing it back up by connecting to 12v, then reversing the wires. These are the ones I have, though it's not the same seller.

    I may have to use a cable hooked to the actuator for the trunk as I have limited space, as I'm cheap and don't want to buy anything...;)

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-UNIVERS...ash=item2a4eda09f0:g:Ov0AAOxyBXNSVEb0&vxp=mtr
  13. cwol97401

    cwol97401 FEOA Member

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    Ok. You'll need this relay diagram then. I apologise for vetting the other one, I should've asked about the actuators first. [​IMG]

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  14. Itchigo

    Itchigo FEOA Member

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    So this is showing I only need 2 relays? And all 4 get hooked to the same connections?
  15. cwol97401

    cwol97401 FEOA Member

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    Yes and yes

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  16. Itchigo

    Itchigo FEOA Member

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    Question, as I'm going to get to wiring after some delays. (Still need a switch)

    Where do the 2 low power wires get hooked to to the remote start brainbox?
  17. cwol97401

    cwol97401 FEOA Member

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    What two low power wires? What's their function?

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  18. Itchigo

    Itchigo FEOA Member

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    They are the trigger wires going to the Audiovox remote start brainbox. The ones that can only take like 300 ma's.

    (I'm using the 2 relay diagram, I only posted this for identification).

    Attached Files:

  19. cwol97401

    cwol97401 FEOA Member

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    Look at page 12 of your Audiovox book. Should be there. Red and green wires. Use the negative(-) wires. Connect to switch input of relay diagram

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  20. Itchigo

    Itchigo FEOA Member

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    I just wanted to say thank you as I had a successful test. Today I'm mounting the switch and it's done. When I get all squared away I'll start a thread for whoever else wants to do this.

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