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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello everyone on FEOA, here is the problem. I went to the bank one day, gt out did what i had to do but when i got back in the car to leave the car would not crank back up. we tried jumpin it, then me and my dad even rtried spraying starte fluid into air intake. it had a rough crank one time then after that died. towed it backto my dad's place, the guy who towed the car for me checked the car ou from problem that i explained to him told meto crank car, wouldn't start, then he checked pressure at the shrader valve. from that he told me that my fuel pump is bad. i said ok a nd went and bought a brand new pump, put it in and the car still wouldnt start. aftr that we checkd fuses and found that the fuel injector amp was blown, went bought a brand new fuses, tried to start ad tojump it the fuse blew again. i call my mchanic he checks the wiring in the engine compartment for any hot wires. finds one fixes that, car still won't start wit new fuse. look over spark plugs and everything find out that the guy who owned car b4 me put the spark plug wires in the wrong firing order onto the distributor cap. we fix that he needs to make sure that timng belt i stillgood. he comes back takes the crankshaft out puts belt back on time and everything. they finally get the car to start up but now its a forced start then the engine will not stay on. the mechanic is saying that not enough gas is getting to the egine after we hopped into the back and started tinkering with the pump and the plugs. im thinking that maybe one of the grund wires is not grounding or there is not enough vacuum on the fue lines. oh yeah, when i was changin the fuel filter i cracked some f the fuel lines.
if ayone can help i would much apprciate bcuz i love my wagon and don wanna have to get rid of it....
 

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You could check the fuel pressure at the Schrader fitting on the fuel rail. I clamped a 5/16" fuel hose over its end, (after unscrewing/removing the valve stem), and connected a pressure gauge (from an old water boiler) onto the other end of the 5/16" hose. I recall it showed something like 36 or 38 psi when the fuel pump was on for the usual 1.5 seconds, then dropped back to about 30 psi when I let go of the ignition key. (At least that is what I recall). If the pressure is much lower than that, it could be a bad fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail.
It should hold most of the pressure for a long time - overnight at least. So you should get a nice squirt of fuel coming out if you depress the schrader valve shortly after you have operated the starter or had the igntion on. (BE CAREFUL, dont be smoking or have any sparks or open flame, and Do This In An Open Area, not in the garage! Gasoline is very flammable, and its MORE flammable if its sprayed around!)
And if you turn on the ignition key and then turn it off and wait awhile, you should still get the same squirt of fuel. If it loses pressure, I would look for either a bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking fuel line - such as anywhere behind the engine, or under the back seat where you had the feul pump out.
Then look for any vacuum leaks; the known ones are well covered in postings in these forums: The pcv valve and the tubing running from there up to the top of the intake manifold can come loose from old age, and there are vacuum lines running to the fuel vapor canister that seem to be pretty feeble. Its rare, but the brake booster can have a leak in its large rubber bladder inside that can mess up the idle. And of course the Idle Air Control Valve can be sticking. The car would still start and run - until you take you foot off of the gas pedal, then might stall. The cure, other than keeping the gas pedal pushed down a tiny bit, is a new IACV. One poster recenlty found he had a vacuum leak due to loose nuts on the intake manifold. I have found loose nuts there, (they arent easy to reach), but it wasnt affecting the idle in my case.
Another reason for hard starting and stalling is if the timing is off by one tooth or so. When you go to check the camshaft timing it isnt easy or simple. You cant go by using the mark that is on the outside of the timing cover, and comparing it with the notch in the rim of the vibration damper pulley. You have to remove the damper pulley to see the marks on the timing sprocket on the end of the crankshaft, compared with the mark on the camshaft sprocket; which of course means the plastic timing cover has to be off too.
If the battery has been disconnected, you have to hold the gas pedal open a small amount for it to start up at first. Then after a couple of seconds the computer will have 'relearned' what it needs to manage on its own without you holding the throttle open slightly.

As for ground wires, there are several of them on an Escort, and they all seem to be important for something. A common place for corroded ground wires is at the black connector that is atop the negative terminal of the battery. I have 3 Escorts, and have eliminated that connector on them, in favor of cutting the wires off at the connector, soldering them together, and running a wire from there to the bolt on the body where the original battery thick ground wire was bolted down.

The way the ignition works on the Escort is that the spark plugs are fired in pairs; #1 & #3 together, and #2 & #4 together, and they fire each time the pistons are near the top of their travel. For one spark plug its at the end of the compression stroke, for the other plug of the 'pair' its at the end of the exhaust stroke. So reversing the #1/#3 spark plug wires shouldnt matter, nor exchanging the #2/#4 plug wires. That coil pack is really two ignition coils. This is how many cars work now.

Thats all I can think of. Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ok, i believe that my mechanic did all of that as far as the dampener pulley and crankshaft. they pulled everything out, dropped the engine. i wasnt out there the whole time, put the timing chain is aligned. but i know from working on the car with mechanic that there is ABSOLUTELY LITTLE pressure fom shraduer valve when depressed. so i will check that, and what is a good way to check the vacuum lines? i know after we had got it started and it stalled the mechanic sled under the car at driver side and passed is hand under an was like he has gas on his hand where he passed his hand. and the ground wire i am talking about is on the silver plate that goes over the fuel opening under the backseat.
but thank you for info, will trysome of it today an will letknow wat happens.
 

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What a mess.
First off, you have ONE problem, not 3.

PharmKillaJoyRidin said:
look over spark plugs and everything find out that the guy who owned car b4 me put the spark plug wires in the wrong firing order onto the distributor cap...
Obviously the firing order WAS right, if you were able to drive the car. If the previous owner did have it wrong, the car would not have been drivable.

So it's either a problem with the timing belt, or fuel pressure not both. The chances of both failing at the same time, are very very slim.

I think your fuse keeps on blowing because the new pump is/was wired wrong, or you were given the wrong replacement parts.

Did they install a new timing belt? If the timing belt was off, then it needs to be replaced, just putting it back in time is not going to fix the problem.

If you really have no fuel pressure, then you need to go back over the wiring and new pump to tripple check things.
 
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