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MY 1996 Wagon-1993 BP swap with April 5th deadline

21K views 143 replies 17 participants last post by  deathride95 
#1 ·
I am currently in the middle of a swap and will be posting updates in this thread hopefully to answer compatibility issues. The vehicles: A 1996 LX wagon, with manual transmission, airbags, A/C, rear drums and power steering. All the windows and locks are manual. A 1993 EGT with manual transmission, cruise control, power steering, rear discs and A/C. The windows and locks are manual and no airbags (I don't even know if that was even an option in 1993).
Both cars are gutted and I am currently putting the EGT wiring into the wagon. I am losing the airbags and the windshield wiper motor had to be swapped out because the terminals were not compatible. I will be swapping out the steering column along with the entire dash.
 
#132 ·
I have a question on your front sway bar requiring a 3G k-member.........why did the larger bar need the 3rd gen member? Reason I ask is I have a ZX2 26mm bar going into a 95LX and I want to know if I will need a K-member swap as well.

I would also like to thank you for documenting fastener type/size/location; very handy to reference to when needed!
No problem, did a LOT of research on fasteners, and figured I would pass on the knowledge. Kind of realized a lot of new guys aren't well versed in fasteners
 
#133 ·
HEader cracked at the collector, going to weld it up next weekend, I bounce off the redline daily and it still runs like a beast.
 
#134 ·
FWIW I've been hearing from the budget racers (lemons) most neutral handling on fwd is had by upgrading the rear swaybar and leaving the front alone.. or if no option to upgrade the rear then they'll just pull the front swaybar off.
 
#135 ·
Update, I think the clutch exploded
 
#137 ·
Hey hey hey! A little update! She's still on the road! Midwest salty winters haven't been kind to her though. She's got a misfire under load that I'm trying to tackle and some play in the steering column. Actually dug up this thread to find out which energy suspension part number i used for the rear lateral link. Glad i made this thread haha!
 
#138 · (Edited)
Whiteline also makes bushings for the rear lateral links but they are expensive and they list them as fitting both 2nd and 3rd gen's which doesn't sound quite right.
 
#142 ·
It's been quite the journey!
 
#140 ·
Glad you dug it back up too (and glad to see you and the ride still kicking). Went to remove my stock K-member and the outside bolt galled and ripped the threads out of the body. Called Fastenal and ordered a stud in the required thread pitch that I will MIG into the body. Why does something as 'simple' as a k-member swap have to be so complicated due to hardware.:oops:
 
#143 · (Edited)
Yeah I'm surprised my thread never got stickied or rather the info I listed. Over the years I've come across people on different forums, social media, etc... asking fasteners sizes and other stuff i documented in my thread. Just like the forward lateral link bushings I am looking for now. I figured by now someone would have a solution or source but even searching this forum I see a bunch of posts asking for ideas on the bushings when I already figured that out and documented 9 years ago lol . As far as stripped threads YUP now whenever I quote a job, it's either comes apart nicely price or rust belt adjustment tax.
 
#144 ·
I'm going to drill/tap/fasten with a 1/2-20 x 3.5" bolt. Since the next up from M12 is M14 and that particular area of the car doesn't have a lot of meat to go that much over, 1/2" = 12.7mm, so that isn't that much over the M12. Enough to give me clean metal to tap, but not too much as to weaken the thread boss beyond use!

Having lived 11 years in Ohio and 11 years in Michigan, I always go with the Rust Belt price and adjust down if the car cooperates!🤣
 
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