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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
WOW 13 months since I last posted! Update, only issues I've had so far is a small oil leak somewhere, driver's axle and tie rod ends needing replaced. I need to get the rear defrost working and now the driver seat belt has seized in the track. and getting ES dust boots for the tie rods. Also with snow tires this thing gets around pretty good too
 

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I have a question on your front sway bar requiring a 3G k-member.........why did the larger bar need the 3rd gen member? Reason I ask is I have a ZX2 26mm bar going into a 95LX and I want to know if I will need a K-member swap as well.

I would also like to thank you for documenting fastener type/size/location; very handy to reference to when needed!
 

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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
0-60 I have no idea, knowing how weak the trannies are, i don't dare do anything from a dig. Turbo? I toss the idea around all the time but i always come to the same conclusion, no. The larger sway bar requires the larger bracket. Which has a different mounting scheme.
 
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I have a question on your front sway bar requiring a 3G k-member.........why did the larger bar need the 3rd gen member? Reason I ask is I have a ZX2 26mm bar going into a 95LX and I want to know if I will need a K-member swap as well.

I would also like to thank you for documenting fastener type/size/location; very handy to reference to when needed!
zx2 bar zx2 k- member bolt holes and brackets are different then the 95 i used all zx2 control arms look to be the same
 

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zx2 have bigger ball joins if I remember this right there 19mm 95 under 17mm. will have to have zx2 spindles
Or just use 2nd gen ball joints.
 

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
yes if you want the bigger stud on the ball joint you need 3rd gen ball joint and 3rd gen spindles
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
I have a question on your front sway bar requiring a 3G k-member.........why did the larger bar need the 3rd gen member? Reason I ask is I have a ZX2 26mm bar going into a 95LX and I want to know if I will need a K-member swap as well.

I would also like to thank you for documenting fastener type/size/location; very handy to reference to when needed!
No problem, did a LOT of research on fasteners, and figured I would pass on the knowledge. Kind of realized a lot of new guys aren't well versed in fasteners
 

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Discussion Starter · #133 ·
HEader cracked at the collector, going to weld it up next weekend, I bounce off the redline daily and it still runs like a beast.
 

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FWIW I've been hearing from the budget racers (lemons) most neutral handling on fwd is had by upgrading the rear swaybar and leaving the front alone.. or if no option to upgrade the rear then they'll just pull the front swaybar off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 ·
Update, I think the clutch exploded
 

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get a new clutch!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #137 ·
Hey hey hey! A little update! She's still on the road! Midwest salty winters haven't been kind to her though. She's got a misfire under load that I'm trying to tackle and some play in the steering column. Actually dug up this thread to find out which energy suspension part number i used for the rear lateral link. Glad i made this thread haha!
 

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Hey hey hey! A little update! She's still on the road! Midwest salty winters haven't been kind to her though. She's got a misfire under load that I'm trying to tackle and some play in the steering column. Actually dug up this thread to find out which energy suspension part number i used for the rear lateral link. Glad i made this thread haha!
Whiteline also makes bushings for the rear lateral links but they are expensive and they list them as fitting both 2nd and 3rd gen's which doesn't sound quite right.
 

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Glad you dug it back up too (and glad to see you and the ride still kicking). Went to remove my stock K-member and the outside bolt galled and ripped the threads out of the body. Called Fastenal and ordered a stud in the required thread pitch that I will MIG into the body. Why does something as 'simple' as a k-member swap have to be so complicated due to hardware.:oops:
 
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