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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There are 3 motor mounts on this vehicle

one near the top passenger side, easy to remove, the rubber where the bolt goes in had hairline cracks around it.

second one, to the radiator core suppotrt, a little harder to remove, the rubber had a split in it in it and alot of hairline cracks

3rd one. there is a bolt that holds just the bushing it, took it out, and the bolt has no room to come out, so decide to take the whole bracket out well, the bracket is right next to the subframe! so i couldnt even get a socekt in there! had to use a small wrench with little room to get it out.


Then to get the top bolt out, I had to jack up the entire engine 2" past where it was.

That bushing was completely shot.


Now that leads me to some questions.

1. What is a good standard for a normal bushing? if i see a whole bunch of hair splits in the rubber when i bend them, does that mean there shot?

2. Does it matter what brand of mount i get? will some cheap duralast hold up the same as the the pricy anchor ones?

3. The discard distance for the rotors in .79" right? mine were .767" but there is only a small diffrence between the normal, .85", will that hurt anything?
 

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FordEscorter said:
There are 3 motor mounts on this vehicle

one near the top passenger side, easy to remove, the rubber where the bolt goes in had hairline cracks around it.

second one, to the radiator core suppotrt, a little harder to remove, the rubber had a split in it in it and alot of hairline cracks

3rd one. there is a bolt that holds just the bushing it, took it out, and the bolt has no room to come out, so decide to take the whole bracket out well, the bracket is right next to the subframe! so i couldnt even get a socekt in there! had to use a small wrench with little room to get it out.

Then to get the top bolt out, I had to jack up the entire engine 2" past where it was.

That bushing was completely shot.

Now that leads me to some questions.

1. What is a good standard for a normal bushing? if i see a whole bunch of hair splits in the rubber when i bend them, does that mean there shot?

2. Does it matter what brand of mount i get? will some cheap duralast hold up the same as the the pricy anchor ones?

3. The discard distance for the rotors in .79" right? mine were .767" but there is only a small diffrence between the normal, .85", will that hurt anything?
1) the bushings will last, even with cracks until they tear. I've never put mounts in any of my scorts, but then again...I'm easy on the right pedal. I drive for fuel economy and slow enough that EVERYONE can see my ride! :lol:

2) Any of the after market mounts will work just fine on an Escort. You're not building HIGH HP #'s are you?

3) Unless the rotors are warped, run them. Once they are warped and pulse at the pedal, throw them away and buy new ones for $15.00 each.

Hope this helps.
 

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EscorGo said:
Cheap rotors are thinner than quality ones. They will overheat, warp and don't give you enough material to turn them next time - false economy

GOOD POINT! I still throw new (cheap) rotors on every 60-75K miles as turning the GOOD rotors costs $15 each anyway. :lol:
 

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dave8338 said:
1) the bushings will last, even with cracks until they tear. I've never put mounts in any of my scorts
I'm with him. I think your worrying a bit too much. If your having vibration problems, it could be because you have a auto tranny or you have a vacuume leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok there is some more worn out bushings, alot of them are gone or split. they are in the a frame, does someone have a list off all the bushings on the car?

by my understanding when rubber gets old, it starts to get hard, and has cracks in it, when you have the trans ( i do have an auto tranny) bolted to the subframe, if the rubber is new, it will not transfer as much vibration to the car, but the old rubber cannot flex as well and will send more shock and vibration to the car
 

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FordEscorter said:
ok there is some more worn out bushings, alot of them are gone or split. they are in the a frame, does someone have a list off all the bushings on the car?

by my understanding when rubber gets old, it starts to get hard, and has cracks in it, when you have the trans ( i do have an auto tranny) bolted to the subframe, if the rubber is new, it will not transfer as much vibration to the car, but the old rubber cannot flex as well and will send more shock and vibration to the car
OK...replace them all! :wink:

I'm doing the exact same thing on a 1986 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe (a collector car) just because I have one broken motor mount and EVERYTHING else is in the process of complete restoration and performance directed. Go NUTS on the 'Scort! You WILL have a tighter car for having done so (should be as tight as new) and the cost on those parts is fairly cheap.
Check out the provided links here on the fourm (search) or go to jegs.com and do some digging.

Keep in mind that the new silicone/urathane bushings WILL be stiffer and transfer MORE vibration to the subframe than the stock ones that you currently have in the car. :roll:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
iirc the aftermarket motor mounts are rubber, its the suspension bushings that are rubber
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i filled the trans back up. and i tried to start it, well when i did, since there were no motor mounts, the car felt like i was in a paint mixer! Well anyway, what scares me, when i try to start it, it runs and dies, is that because of the vibrations, or something worse?
 

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dave8338 said:
GOOD POINT! I still throw new (cheap) rotors on every 60-75K miles as turning the GOOD rotors costs $15 each anyway. :lol:
I still have the original rotors on my 1995 EscortLX at 180K miles. I've never turned them (never needed to). However, on my 1985GT, at 115K I tossed the new rotors for the reason you describe (too expensive to turn).
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
BOSS302man said:
You started the car with NO motor mounts? Why would you do that?
because i had filled the trans with new fluid, and i made a gasket for it outa permatex. so i wanted to make sure there were no leaks, due to the fact if i had put that motor bracket back in, and there were leaks, i would have to pull it out again to replace it, because tow pan bolts are covered by said bracket

but my main question, when i tried to start it, it would only run for a few seconds and die, would the vibration from the motor kill the engine?

the brake rotors cost 15 a pair to turn here, but according to ford spec, mine are below discard, which doesnt make any sense, because there is hardly any diff between the rotor area that gets touched by the pads, and the area that doesnt so if these stock rotors have been replaced with new thinner ones, would that make for a new discard spec?
 

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I'm going outside to smoke a cigarette...... :roll:
8O 8O 8O
 

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FordEscorter said:
BOSS302man said:
You started the car with NO motor mounts? Why would you do that?
because i had filled the trans with new fluid, and i made a gasket for it outa permatex. so i wanted to make sure there were no leaks, due to the fact if i had put that motor bracket back in, and there were leaks, i would have to pull it out again to replace it, because tow pan bolts are covered by said bracket
I just did my transmission fluid and filter on my 1995LX with an ATX, and I did not remove any motor mounts. It is extremely difficult, but possible to get to all the bolts on and off, if you are patient. I think it took me something like 7 hours to do the whole thing though.

FordEscorter said:
the brake rotors cost 15 a pair to turn here, but according to ford spec, mine are below discard, which doesnt make any sense, because there is hardly any diff between the rotor area that gets touched by the pads, and the area that doesnt so if these stock rotors have been replaced with new thinner ones, would that make for a new discard spec?
Did you buy cheap made in China rotors, or something?
 

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The Ford thickness specification is based on the rotors installed at the factory. Replacement thickness specifications can vary, and isn't always the same. The thickness spec should be stamped on the rotor itself somewhere, usually in the center area.

At .767 I would not resurface it though... either reuse it or replace it.

Or you can replace the spindles, rotors, calipers, and hoses, and install 13" wheels on your escort, that would look bad ass!
 
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