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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I got some new motor mounts and filled them with 80 shore urethane casting compound. They've been sitting in my house waiting to go on for about two weeks because the weather has been sucky and when it has been nice, haven't had the time. Well I got the first one on two days ago. (Front tranny mount) Took for flipping ever because I couldn't get the bolt hole the line up. (just like yours Mike) So I finally got it together and took it out for a drive. Made quite the difference. So I couldn't wait to get the others on. Passenger side mount went on perfectly and took no time at all. Then I moved on to the left side tranny mount. Now first off you have to remove the intake, battery, battery tray, and then pull the mount. So I did that and took it appart and reassembled the new one.

*begins rant*

Now when I got it all together I went to put it in and it wasn't lining up. No problem I thought, I'll just adjust how it's angled and it will slip right in. Still no dice. Kept hitting the frame rail and not lining up the holes. Well after about and hour of that I started getting a little pissed. So I started taking screw drivers and sticking them in the bolt holes and trying to pry it over. Still no luck. At this time my wife notices that the stock mount and this new mount are slightly different in size. The new one has about an 1/8" more length to it. So now I'm uber pissed and take out the hammer. I start to pound the crap out of it hoping it would squeeze in. Well that didn't work either. So now I have to take appart the new mount and reassemble the old one. So I finally get the car put back together 3hrs after I started to be right back to a flipping stock mount!!! Then to top it off I neglected to attach my TB return spring so when I took my little test drive I had to stop and reattach it on the side of the road.

Moral of the story, don't buy new mounts, get them from the JY. So now I have to get a JY mount that I know will fit and another $25 can of urethane casting compound that I won't use all of again. :roll:
 

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im going to point out one thing here its a sarcastic anwer that should be taken seriously but with a light mind.

why do you need to fill your side mounts? your not rear wheel drive are you? i have just my front and rears done with steal plateside. the motor will not move! the side once not being filled/welded wil help the vibration factor a bit also. but really what is the need for solid side mounts?

NEUMAN
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I see what your getting at with the side mounts there Eric. The passenger side could have been done without but if you look at the drivers side mount under the battery, it actually applies pressure to the mount during acceleration. So it would be nice to have filled. The front mount is filled though and in so I am happy about that. Wheel hop is pretty much gone now and the motor doesn't rock back and forth over an inch under hard accel like it used to. Basically I just want everything to be nice and solid, so maybe it's just a personal preference having them all filled.
 

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personal preference is your deal man. to each there own and i understand than. just mine is more than ok with the front and rears filled. but who am i to say. i just got teh CS powerseries down pipe and man cutting the tail end off at the pipe merge and welding up 3" from there. yeah im crazy cut up a brand new $250 downpipe. LOL so i see where your coming from!


NEUMAN
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sucks that your new down pipe wasn't just bolt on.
 

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well to a point it is bolt on. i could just ditch my exhaust and run straight down pipe! LOL the only mod most people will need to do is weld a flange on. the down pipe is mint! i just want 3" cause i want 3". just like you want solid mounts. so its mod sunday in my buddies garage. i hear someone else may be getting a front mount and pipes done but he will post later im sure.


NEUMAN
 

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The book says to put a jack with a piece of plywood on it under the engine/tranny to lift it slightly to make it clear the frame and or suspension. It worked for me. Gotta be careful though just to jack it only slightly, just enough to move it or else you can crack the block
 

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The book says to put a jack with a piece of plywood on it under the engine/tranny to lift it slightly to make it clear the frame and or suspension. It worked for me. Gotta be careful though just to jack it only slightly, just enough to move it or else you can crack the block
Been there done that with the block cracking. I had an old 93 wagon 5 speed and when I changed the rear motor mount I did what the book said and used a piece of wood and a floor Jack and only lifted a slight bit and crack! Oh well that one had 268,000 miles on it.
 

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How the heck does the block crack? I could see the cast aluminum oil pan cracking maybe if it were jacked up with way too much force.
But I've supported the engine with a jack and a piece of 1-1/2 x 5-1/4 board with no problems to change a clutch and another time to change the motor mounts (which turned out to be poor quality offshore pieces).
 
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