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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the next thing on my list for my scort is to have a lowered suspension by summertime. i have a checklist and was wondering if i was missing anything, and if anyone had any comments of their own: what works, brand recommendations, etc..

checklist:

lowering springs (so far, on order 1.8"/1.8" drop)
struts
camber kit (i plan on upgrading to 15" or 16" rims in the near future)

other things similar, but not:

front strut tower brace
motor mounts


anyone care to comment on whether or not im on the right track? any comments/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
thanks,
dan
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
the lowering springs are Dropzones i got from driveracing.com for $89 ($110 shipped).

the struts i have two diff brands in mind. one from tirerack which are KYB's sold separatly at $48 ea, and tokico's which are sold in a 4-pack for $179 at zxtuner.com.
im kinda torn between the two. i dont know which is better: the tokico's are cheaper together than the KYB's, but what if i have to buy just one strut? what do you think is better?

the cambers are Eibach and im definitely getting from tirerack for $25 pa.

the tower bar im thinking along the lines of either CTA or corksport. im not sure yet.. im still up for suggestions on that one.

the motor mounts im probably going to get from zxtuner for $24 set.

like i said, any suggestions will be appreciated.
 

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I recomend the Tokico S/R Struts if you are going to lower the car. I just finished my suspension drop with the Ground Control coilovers, exspensive but well worth it. Other than what you have listed another thing to consider would be a set of larger swaybars, unless you already have some. Matt Berend used to sell the Quickor 1" swaybar on bareend.com, he still has Quickor listed, so I imagine he can still get you the swaybars. I couldn't think of anything else that you might need/want, but If I do I'll be sure to let ya know, have fun with the new suspension.
 

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Instead of a front strut bar, use the money towards a rear swaybar. By adding a front strut tower bar, you're just tigntening up the front end, which will increase understeer. If you throw on a rear swaybar, you can help tignten up the rear end a little to increase oversteer and help swing the rear end around in turns to get the steering more neutral. Also, a bushing set for the rear would be a great idea, although it tends to make for a slightly noiser, squeakier ride.

Right now I'm using tokico blue S/R shocks, ground control coilovers, eibach race springs (53N/m front, 35N/m rear), eibach camber bolts, ground control camber plates, and a 1" quickor swaybar.

I could have been well on my way through a turbo project with that money... but we all know that driving in a straight line isn't any fun :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
note to self: look for sway bars.

___________________________________________________________
found some!

there are some by $283 set at andys auto sport Suspension Techniques

and a set from CTA for $279, same brand.

now, if i get sway bars, do i have to get bushings for them?

oh yeah, if i get a rear strut tower bar, won't i have to cut holes into the interior paneling for them to connect in the rear?
and, do i have to get plates for the camber bolts? or is that used to make things look pretty?
 

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DeathSlinger00. Those camber bolts will not help much once you put wider rims on the car. Maybe 1deg. As it is.. with a 7" wide rim, there's scarcely any room between the tire/rim and the strut. If you really want to adjust your camber, get adjustable coil-overs and camber/caster adjustable pillow-ball strut mount plates. You'll be able to get about 3deg with that setup. You can't use lowering springs or stock springs with the plates because the springs are so large in diameter that they'll hit the towers before you get a degree of adjustment in.

Now that I've had a year on my suspension, I regret not going GC coil-over from the start simply because of the camber issue. For someone who doesn't corner hard very often or autocross, the setup is pretty good, but for me, buying 6 sticky tires a summer is a bit expensive. The outside front edges just get burned up with the 0deg front camber that I have.

siragan said:
Instead of a front strut bar, use the money towards a rear swaybar. By adding a front strut tower bar, you're just tigntening up the front end, which will increase understeer.
Not true, but it's a common mis-conception. Stiffening the spring rates on one axle in relation to the other will generally cause that end to lose traction first (stiff front = understeer, stiff rear = oversteer), yes. Stiffening the alignment (harder bushings) or car structure (strut braces) will only help to keep the alignment settings in tact under load.. always, this means more predictable at-the-limit handling.. and sometimes it means even more traction. Usually, with soft bushings and flexing strut towers the camber setting can change by a few degrees under load. This means that -2deg of camber up front on the alignment rack can translate to 0deg camber when cornering hard. Add in the roll of the vehicle and you're riding on the outside edge of your front tires... that's even more understeer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
well, the rims i have in mind for the future are the 15" GT rims (for the winter). and im still tossing around the idea of getting as high as 16" rims for summer, basically whenever i scrounge up enough coin for them. the ones i have in mind are the Kosei K1 Racing rims from www.tirerack.com (the 15" are 15x7 and 16" are 16x7.5). but im getting a bit ahead of myself here, i plan on lowering my scort before i get rims.

what kinda camber bolts you think i should shoot for then? and where can i find 'em?

this is helping, but i still feel as if im still lost in my quest for a lowered suspension...

keep the comments coming.!
 

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Best deal for struts are the tokico S/R's from www.oemfordparts.com.

Unless you are going to drop the car like 4", you don't need to adjust the camber. Just spin the strut tops 180 degrees when you reinstall them and the camber will be almost perfect. I have run a 2" drop for like 3 years and never had tire wear due to camber. Neuman runs fully slammed coilovers and never had camber problems either.

Just go for a quality name brand spring or coilover and good struts, drive it a bit, see if you want to change anything, and then go from there. If you get everything (springs, sway bar, strut bars, etc) all at once you won't be able to tell what each seperate mod did, so personally I like to do one thing at a time and see how I like it. Then you can buy only the things that will make the car perform exactly the way you want it to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
would it be safe for me to assume that the tokico's for the S/R will fit in a 2 gen? ---wait, what the hell am i saying?! you have a 2 gen and yeah... okay. but aren't they the same ones i can get at zxtuner also?

so, if i wanna do this step-by-step, like you suggested; what will i need to buy together? i know i can't just put in the springs and drive around with JUST those.
 

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Yes they are the same ones that zxtuner has. They are cheaper from oemfordpart.com though ($160 for the set). They are a direct fit except for the thrust bearings (small bearing under the strut caps) which are 2mm too small. All you need to do is shave the plastic out of the inside of them and then it fits perfect. You will want to get the struts and springs at the same time, and then get whatever else you decide on after that.
 

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even at the 4 inch drop your only going to be negative 1 degree and the tires will wear fine. cause if your dropped that much like i almost am you like hitting the backroads! and that will get the outer blocks of your tires to wear out too.

NEUMAN
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
so, you're basically saying that camber bolts are almost pointless at a drop at 4" or less?
but in my town, you'll still be hitting like the backroads at a higher suspension than stock. where i live, you begin to be able to maneuver better by avoiding potholes... poor tires.
 

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it all depends on how you drive it?
if your going to be adjusting the ride hight all the time and just drive around town, dont worry about it. but if you leave it dropped all the time and do alot of highway driveing, get an alignment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
yeah, since im getting springs and not coilovers, this will be year-round. i drive mostly in the city anyway. the last time i was on the highway in my scort was a little over a month ago, and it was only 70miles or so. but in the city, i don't drive the hell out of my car like it's meant for rallyracing or anything. that's really it.
 
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